1 FZFE fuel pumps

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SupportingVendor Emeritus
Mar 27, 2003
Land Cruiser Heritage Museum broom closet
Recently there have been concerns raised on 80's cool and a bit here about fuel pumps and in particular the health of high mileage ones. Christo has had issues with fuel delivery particularly after blower installations. Some mention has also been made of a Holly replacement that may be better suited to forced induction motors. As I am a factory kind of guy, the Holly did not excite me but I thought "hey, I'm at 114k. I don't want my pump takin' a crap on me out in the middle of nowhere". So, I decided to do a PM and replace mine.
I chose an OEM pump(surprise, surprise ::) ), a new sock, new gasket for the pump bracket, new sock retainer and new gaskets for the high pressure banjo fitting. The total retail of these items was about 260 bucks.
I just completed the installation. It is not as bad as you might imagine. Total time was just under 1 and a half hours. Installation requires removall of the second row seats, rear sill plates, rear step plates and peeling back of the rear seat carpet. This exposes an oval access plate in the floor. Under the plate resides the fuel pump bracket. Remove the gas cap to relieve excess pressure in the tank and then unplug the wire harness. Remove the return and high pressure hoses and take out the retaining screws and carefully lift the bracket out of the tank.

After you get the bracket to the bench it is very straight forward. Un-plug the connector at the pump and take the clamp off of the hose going between the pump and the tube. Next pop the pump out. Put the new sock on the bottom of the new pump so it looks like the old one, transfer the hose and rubber lower mount over and re-assemble. Next stick it back in the tank and reverse everything you un-did. The banjo bolt should be torqued to 22 lbft and the rear seat bolts to 29 lbft.
Oh, do disconnect the battery before you start the job, no fires now. ;)

Cheers, Dan.
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=4992;start=msg38236#msg38236 date=1062785099]

Oh, do disconnect the battery before you start the job, no fires now. ;)

Cheers, Dan.


Junk, if you do this don't forget to put out your cigarrete, (you really should quit ya know)
I waz going to go C-Dan's OEM :) but the Holley looks cooler :D but I was at a yard sale and got a hand pump for $3.75 :D As I am good with my hands and like to pump, the hand pump will do me well :eek: 8)
Get some spare seals as I'm sure it will leak and go squirting stuff everywhere.
How can I reply seriously to this with a picture of Junk's sis with a cancer stick in his/her mouth and Kurt on his way to going blind?
Oh well, I just wanted to point out that I ran a Holley fuel pump and it turned out to be a disaster. The Holley put out the correct pressure but put out too much volume. The return line from the rack on the cruiser is around 5/16 inch in size and is not nearly large enough for the pump. As a result if the pump is run for sustained periods it will get hot. Usually it will still run but howl like crazy. If the motor is shut down the pump will be frozen till it cools down and attempts at starting can blow the ignition fuse under the hood.
Bill I'm glad you brought that up on 2 counts.

#1) I now remember that you had mentioned your issue with the Holly pump and I'm really glad now that I did not choose that one.

#2) I was very concerned that the original post that started this thread was WAY off topic. ::)
Holly's reputation precedes anything we say here but, as Bill points out, the pump needs to match the application (if I'm not mistaken, Bill runs each tank/pump straight to the fuel rail, so both pressure and volume are critical.)

On the other hand, when using the Holly as an external transfer pump (aux to primary), pressure and volume are not at issue (for the most part) - though you do loose redundancy.

If I was goin' grizzly stomping in the north hinterlands for extended periods, I suspect I would drop in a new OEM pump for the primary as a preventive measure, and simply carry spares for the externally mounted, rebuild-it-in-place Holly.

R -
The old and trusted hand pump will never fail :D But when the wife drives(she is not as good with her hands) I beter have a new OEM pump as a back up when she gets tired :p
You are correct sir. It sounded to me like Dan was replacing his original pump in which case I think the OEM was the way to go. I went through four of those Holley pumps (try getting them in Fairbanks etc.) before I got home. My way of correcting the problem was to cut a hole in the aux. tank, cut out a steel mounting flange, weld it to the tank, and mount another OEM pump/float. That way I have redundant stock pumps and a pressure/volume match. I called Holley when having the pump problems on the road and one of their engineers told me of the volume/heating issue so I can't say I actually solved it but the info was from the horses mouth. As you said, for a transfer pump it, or for that matter almost any pump would work fine.
I ran the OE fuel pump with my turbo 4.5 80, though it did run a holley pump with the 200lt fuel cell when doing the Aus safari, I used the hlley pump to transfer the fuel from the aux to the main when I put the original tanks back in, and it took 3 min to transfer all the fuel.

I also had the lines run so if the oe unit stopped, I could swap the hoses and run the engine from the holley pump, from the aux or main tank.

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