1 FZ-FE Turbo plumbing (1 Viewer)

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Hey boys,

Having soursed all the gear, I'm just waiting to get my 80 back from the panelbeaters before the turbo install starts. In the meantime I have a few quesations regarding oil and water supply and return lines.

Please correct me where I'm wrong but I plan on getting the oil supply by "T"ing of the oil pressure sender and returning it to the upper sump area. With regards to this, is it safe to tap into the sump without removing it and where is the best place on the sump to fit the return line - obviously above the oil level is a start. Also, those of you who've fitted turbo's to your 80s, how have you regulated oil pressure to the turbo and what pressure? Any tips or pics is much appreciated.

As far as water supply, I was going to tap into the engine side of the thermostat housing for the supply but not sure where to connect the retun line.

For those that may be wondering, my setup will use a GT3582R with Safari manifold and custom water to air IC. Should be a ball tearer in 6-8psi and I'll keep you posted.

Any help with this is much appreciated.

Cheers,
Nath
 
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Yes, the oil feed comes off the oil pressure sending port on the block. For the oil return you will have to drill a hole in the upper oil pan. You will need to use a 90 degree drill and a uni-bit to have enough clearance to drill the hole. I used the fitting in the picture. I was pretty worried about drilling the oil pan, but it has not leaked a drop.
turbinesideweb.jpg
oilteeweb.jpg
turbo oil drain.jpg
 
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Just in the hope it helps, when the turbo was installed in my rig the upper oil pan was removed entirely to drill and to tap for the fitting on return oil line. It is much more work but I think that it is preferred. If you do drill it in place be sure to slober grease all over your bit so that the shavings of metal stick to the grease and don't get down into the pan. HTH. :cheers:
 
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That is what I did, left it in place and covered the uni-bit with grease. The tapped it with the tap covered in grease as well.
 
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Thanks guys,

To be honest I now removing the sump is the best way but I figured someone might have a fool proof way of fitting the line without risking metal filings in the sump. I don't want to risk that so I'll yank it and do the job properly.

On another note - Assuming the engine side of the thermostat is the best place for the water supply line, where's the best place to hook up the water return line?

And having done much searching I can't find a definitive answer regarding the need to alter the PCV plumbing to prevent seals blowing.

Again, any info or pics is much appreciated.
 

landtank

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I'm planning on having a an connector welded to the goose neck next to the distributor for water supply and another one on the heater return line for water return. This is similar to what Safari did.

As for the PVC, the vent line needs to be moved pre turbo and a check valve should be added to the line to the charcoal canister.
 

The Lovely Boyo

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These and other drawings are available via a link in one of the other turbo threads - but I can't find it at the mo!


Waterworks


Oil pan and pipes


PVC position etc
 

landtank

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Just a FYI Nath, that turbo should have an oil restrictor on it. Otherwise you'll blow out the seals in it.
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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which it's the higger pressure in the 1FZ-FE engine .. in my factory turbo 1HD-T never got more than 64PSI
 
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Thanks again guys, that post with the safari plumbing diagrams is excellent.

As for the oil restirctor, I know one is needed but I'll have to do some more research on what size I'll need. I know Garrett recommend a max oil pressure of 60psi and my aftermarket gauge has hit 80+ psi on occasion (but thats at 5000prm):)

It should have it up and running within the next month. I really am excited and can't wait to see how it goes. By all accounts I should have a smile from ear to ear and then some.

Cheers all.

Nath
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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As for the oil restirctor, I know one is needed but I'll have to do some more research on what size I'll need. I know Garrett recommend a max oil pressure of 60psi and my aftermarket gauge has hit 80+ psi on occasion (but thats at 5000prm):)
that happend in my 60 series with aftermatket turbo in my 2H .. it hit 85 PSI cold ( thought as same as you ) but unless it's a normal operative temp .. never go over 55 - 60 PSI .. that should be fine for the turbo seals ..

My turbo come with oil restrictor .. but thought are not enought enycase .. I just try to warm up the engine before hi rev it ..
 
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Oil return drilling: You can blow around 3-5psi into the cranksace vent while drilling. When the bit breaks through you will blow the metal chips back out via/ pressurized crankcase. Flyin Miata has been doing it this way for years.

Coolant tap: For starters, just because the turbo has coolant capabilities doesn't mean you have to use them. Tried it both ways with similar results; never burned one up. With that said; on my 4runner setup I used the rear heater hose connections; that way there was no guess work. One was obviously coming and one was going.

Oil pressure: Control this via/ AN fitting size in the supply line. example.. AN-3, AN-4. A little research will lead you in the right direction.

Good luck.
 
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Just for the record, I would NOT run without coolant lines connected; it helps to have every bit of cooling and lubricating you can get, it isn't hard to plum that so why skip it? :cheers:
 
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Just for the record, I would NOT run without coolant lines connected; it helps to have every bit of cooling and lubricating you can get, it isn't hard to plum that so why skip it? :cheers:
That didn't take long.

Of course it won't hurt to hook it up, but there are many OEM applications that run oil only. Just an option for an application that will never tax the turbo close to its capabilities.

Why am I even writing this reply:confused:.
 
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Why am I even writing this reply:confused:.

Dunno, I'm trying to figure out why you wrote the first thing! :D :flipoff2: :D

Honestly who cares about whether some OEM setups don't have coolant cooling ... many more do have it and either which way, if your turbo has it, install it, pretty simple stuff. I do like the thought of pressurizing the crankcase though and basically blowing out the shavings, that's pretty trick. :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
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I will be running the water lines simply because the turbo was designed to run them and I will be pushing it to it's limits regularly so it will need all the cooling it can get.

Pressurising the sump is a great idea but the time spe nt setting it up I can have the lower pan off and on in the same time. Still a great tip though.

Have been doing a fair bit of research on the oil restrictor. The general rule seems to be that it's best to run a decent size -4 supply line and fit the restictor to the turbo housing. As for the restrictor size, it appears it's just trial and error. I will start with .055 and work my way up going by an inline pressure gauge T'd off after the restrictor.

Slow and steady wins the race eh!

Thanks guys,
Nath
 

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