1.5" wheel adapters rub in the front!

[T Y L E R]

Dang nammit!!


I had the 1.5" wheel adapters installed today, and promptly had them taken off again.

Not enough space between the tires and (front) bumper/rearward wheel wells at nearly full lock.

Sooo, what are my options?


I am running OME 850J/863 coils, L-shocks. No aftermarket weight, and 3 foot IROKs. I am just about as tall as I can go and still enter the underground parking in my condo development. I also have the Slee castor plates installed, and the truck drives wonderfully.

I am looking at getting a 1-1.5" spacer for up front (above coils) to level out the stance. Will that lessen or worsen the rubbing?

What about going up a bit higher, and adding longer front control arms? Also panhard rods need to be adjustable I guess .. for a clean symmetry.

Besides the idea of raising the nose of the 80 up a bit, I would like to consider cutting. The front bumper trimming is a no brainer, but I don't quite know whats behind the (front) rearward wheel well area. Can I start hacking away back there beyond where the front mud flap mounts?


What are some of the best sol'ns to this challenge?? Feels like my uber poser just hit it's first obstacle...


TIA,



TY

 

[firetruck41]

What's the goal here? Just want wheel adapters? Or were the adapters a solution to some other problem? I think the first thing you're going to have to do is secure a uncovered/outside parking space .

 

[Nay]

Remove the flares. Better looking and will open up your trimming options. 3/4" spacers may be a better fit at your lift height...the 1.5" would probably work better on a 6" lift with the 3' IROKs.

Nay

 

[Bob_Garrett]

I run 850Js + 1" spacers above the coils and with 1.25 wheel adapters, I have only minor rubbing on the front edge of the fender well. I'm running 315 MTRs, though, which are likely an 1" or more smaller than the iroks (assuming 3ft means you're running 36s.

I'm assuming that any significant cutting on the back of the fender well would get into the firewall rather quickly. That assumption is based on my mini-truck, though, and might not be as true on the 80. What about lowering the bumpstops?

 

[T Y L E R]

Yup .. I have one with a plugin .. and I have a remote start 80...what a I am. I hate cleaning snow off my precioussss.


Ok, I wanted to fatten out the 80's stance ... I went up about 4", so I figured why not stabilize it a bit with 3" extra width. That was my goal ..


And everything I've done to the 80 so far has been a success in regards to my expectations and the final outcome. This is my first real snag. Some tough decisions might need to be made here ..


The IROK's will fit and flex with the 1.5" adapters come hell or high water .. just a matter of how much I need to spend, and how much higher it might need to go .. or how much trimming needs to be done.



TY

 

[Josh83]

I saw where a guy running Krawlers on a white LX450 did some major surgery in the back of his front wheel wells. If I remember he took out a couple of inches maybe. Search for "Krawlers" or "trimming".

 

[Doc]

^ that was inacoma, AKA kumar. Very nice rig.

 

[T Y L E R]

s***ty iPAQ pics .. I had forgotten my camera at home.

 

[T Y L E R]

I may return to the shop .. because if I had been less tired I may have thought of this:


Throw on the adapters, and then jack up the front frame after measuring the flare lip to lower bead (thanx for the pointer Darren) as a reference. Raise the 80 incrementally looking for improvement.


Sound logical?



TY

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

I'd add the spacers first, IMO, level it out like you want (check garage clearance!!), and then make decisions on spacers/hacking/trimming.

 

[landtank]

another issue, you've installed Slee's caster plate which moves the axle rearward while compensating for caster. Darren has installed caster bushings in the rear of the arms to help move the axle forward, back to it's original position. This might help with some of the rubbing issues.

 

[T Y L E R]

another issue, you've installed Slee's caster plate which moves the axle rearward while compensating for caster. Darren has installed caster bushings in the rear of the arms to help move the axle forward, back to it's original position. This might help with some of the rubbing issues.

(Aus)Darren? I hadn't realized .. but on my drive home from the shop, I kept mauling that exact idea around , hoping someone had already tried it!

Confirm that it was Shed-Darren, and I'll email him for a little advice.



Thanx Rick,

 

[clownmidget]

Umm, not to continue to be the designated dick but you should know better and search

(https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=62088) post #18

I have my modified arms and a brand new pair of the OME cc bushes sitting in Rick's garage...

 

[clownmidget]

Also, not that it would be your first choice but you can trim/cut the lower rear corner off the front plastic portion of the front bumper and then remove the mudflaps at the rear of the front wheel well and then see if it rubs. I wasn't able to have the mudflaps on and run the xzl 9.0's without rubbing.

 

[4dmalamute]

Hey Tyler....

I have the exact same set up (Im running 315s with Js) I have zero rub........so, it is possible, but, you need to trim the corner off your plastic bumper ends. As for the rear, you need to either trim or ditch all together the mud flaps. I hope this works for you!

 

[T Y L E R]

* I will return to the shop, and I'll have them place the adapter back on, and have the 80 jacked up an inch to see when I'm at.

* I am going to seriously consider not only raising the front to a level attitude, but swapping in 863J's in place of the 863's, and then add 1.5" spacers up front somehow - not sure of source quite yet.

* I will then order OME CC bushings for the rear of the front control arms.

* I may also consider removing the front mud flaps if need be.

* The front bumper corners might need trimming.


Hopefully this will collectively be a recipe for success ...



TY

 

[clownmidget]

just an FYI.

1) The rear hole of the control arm will need to be machined out to the larger diameter of the front bushings.

2) The width of the front bushings (oem & ome cc) is approx. 0.5" narrower than the rear bushings. You'll need to use thick 0.25" washers or stock plate with the right diameter hole to compensate.

3) The bolt hole diameter is smaller for the front bushings than the rear so it will need to be machined out to the proper rear bolt diameter. Or you can use the smaller diameter front bolt and weld plate into the rear frame mounts to deal with issue #2 and #3 simultaneously but with a smaller bolt.

As I said, I have the arms already modified as above with the cc bushings in the front as well and they are sitting on a shelf. Let me know if you want to seriously try this as you really shouldn't mess up your stock arms in my opinion.

Also, I have the other two cc bushes from the above experiment sitting as well so you really really shouldn't buy a full set of 4 bushes. But to each his own.

* I will then order OME CC bushings for the rear of the front control arms.

I think you really really have to do this to run tires that size.

* The front bumper corners might need trimming.

 

[T Y L E R]

Fairly involved


My initial thoughts are whether your arms would work with my Slee castor plates. If they would by simply swapping in OEM bushing into the front of your arms again, it would be quite helpful to obtain your modified arms.


TY

 

[clownmidget]

Yes, the fronts are un-modified other than having the ome cc bushes pressed in. so they should work...

 

[clownmidget]

Rick is spot on. After a certain point of lift, you are on the slippery expensive slope of doing it properly.

However, I did have good luck at least on my truck with these arms with all cc bushings and about 5" of lift. The addition of the adjustable caster slots then helped my caster but introduced the need for cv front driveshaft.