i am not sure how to get it out though. Was thinking get a steel drillbit and drill a 1/8 or 1/4 inch hole all the way through it. Its crossed in the anchor swivel I think. Was thinking hollowing it out would back out the pressure and allow the impact wrnch to unscrew it. Whats advice here? Right now my impact driver will not get it to loosen at all.
Soak it repeadedly in Kano Kroil and keep working it. If you can get it to budge just a little soak it again. Hopefully it will come out for you without drilling. Also how powerful is your impact? I have found there are some that have ALOT more busting torque than others.
I just recently had an OME kit installed on my 01 LC and the shop had to replace the bolts and the part on top that they screw into. It took about a week to get the parts from Toyota. You may want to go ahead and have new bolts ready because there may not be enough useable thread remaining once you get them out. They also had to soak in PB blaster over night before they would budge. Good luck.
I had a 1/2 inch torque wrench on it, used a pipe as a breaker bar, and my torque wrench exploded. Then I used my non-ratchet 1/2 inch wrench and a pipe as the bar, and it busted my extension. It will not move. I looked to the dealer for the bolt and swivel. Going to be $85 for them special ordered. Do you all think hollowing out the bolt will be a good way to go? I just feel by hollowing it out, there will be some give and my impact wrench should be able to unscrew it.
Do you have access to a torch? You could put some heat on it get it nice and hot on the piece that the bolt threads into and it may give a little. Keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
Are you using air impact? Is there possibly a tool rental place by you that may have a 3/4 impact gun? Make sure you are using a 6 point socket that fits tight. Recently I had to remove a very large rusted on nut (1 1/2). I had to use a 3/4 impact to budge it as I thought I was going to have to cut it off.
IMO I'm not confident in the idea of drilling into the bolt as it is so large that the outer surface may still not release it because it is a very large stout bolt probably a very hard steel as well. I think drilling it would require many dulled drilled bits and a lot of time. Probably have to go very deep into the bolt as well.
Unfortunately some projects are best left to a shop. It may have to be cut out worst case scenario.
Seems like hollowing it out could go one of two ways:
1) It will relieve the pressure and allow you to back out the bolt the rest of the way
2) It creates more stress since you're pushing the walls of the bolt outward into the threads, causing the bolt to snap when you put a wrench to it since you compromised its structural integrity by drilling through the center
You could try drilling through it and then heating it with a torch to see if that helps at all.
Drilling will weaken bolt, I'd only do as last resort.
Is this a rust belt rig?
The problem is any flex, you lose bolt wins. Even using an extension between socket and breaker bar, extension may flex, you lose bolt wins. Even a long pipe stuck on a wrench for leverage may flex.
Try heating bolt & nut (receptor) with plumbers torch, while hot soak with penetration oil of choice, it draws it in. 1/2 breaker with six point impact socket is best bet after it cools. Repeat, try breaking while hot. Keep repeating with weigh on wheels/tires then off.
Note: A torque wrench flexes and should never be used to remove any bolt as it will rune wrench.
I'm in Centennial if you'd like to come by PM me. You'll need to bring me a six point 1/2" impact socket of correct size.
So after a few attempts of torching the anchor swivel and not getting any more movement, decided time for the sawzall. Cut the bolt off, and now tomorrow supposed to get the new bolt and swivel.
We've had to cut out a couple. We keep the anchor and the bolts here in stock kits in case. We had to use a thick piece of all-thread and nuts/fender washers top bottom to make a temporary anchor until the correct parts arrived.
So this was a concern for me. I can tell you that if anyone was in the way when it let go there could be serious harm. The way I did this was by laying under the passenger side head facing back of truck. Sawed it to halfwaypoint, rested, sawed to three quarter point, rested, a bit more, then a bit more and it broke apart. The reason for the rests was because I wanted to visually inspect to see if bolt was pulling apart from the force. It finally did in the last 1/16 inch left. It sent the bolt and u part next to bolt across the garage into a piece of wood i had laid up. A lot of force for sure!
It sounds from the above that it is very dangerous to try and cut these bolts off...
I have a 2002 Landcruiser and need to raise the front by about 0.75 inch because of a heavy ARB bumper and winch. Both sides are currently ~19.0 inches from the middle of the hub to the fender, and I have read the factory height should be 19.75 inches.
The rig is completely rusted everywhere, and I have tried every trick on this forum to move the torsion bar adjustment bolt to no avail:
Both front tires off the ground
Tons of PB blaster
Torch heat
Impact wrench
24 inch breaker bar
So I I’m down to cutting the bolts off as my only option, and have ordered 3 new parts for each side to replace:
Thoughts on cutting the torsion bar anchor bolt, is maybe put a jack underneath the bolt to release the torsion "unload" when the bolt is cut? I might cut the bolt anchor, and then release the jack.
I remember when my 2000's bolt cross threaded. It took two of us, and a 6' steel bar to unwind. It was the most insane thing I've ever done on a truck.
When you cut that bolt the torsion arm is going to instantly rotate about 30 degrees with a couple thousand pounds of force, and take the head of the bolt with it, flinging it somewhere along the way. Oh, and you are going to crap your pants.
I like the idea of a jack, but you can't help but be under the truck to cut this, and I'd guess it would have enough force to upset the jack, and then you'd bang you head as you crapped your pants trying to get away.
So, as redneck as it sounds, I would wrap the head around the anchor with duct tape or safety wire to keep it from becoming a projectile, then cut it, knowing it will only violently rotate 30 degrees or so. Don't have a helper or your dog standing in the path of rotation, in case the head of the bolt liberates.
I wonder if cutting the torsion bar would be safer. Unload the suspension and heat it until it fatigues and the metal itself starts to deform, thus unloading the tension and then cut?
