All's weld that ends weld. (1 Viewer)

Another project almost done. I still need to cut the opening and hinge it so you can access the rack through the sun roof but I need the mounting feet first to get the exact dimensions. So far $68.00 invested. Let me know what you think Be nice Jman!!!

Bad azzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Real nice. God, now I want to get rid of my Conferr.....

More info on this rack please..... I need something like that for my military trailer. Thanks

Is that steel? Has to be for $70. How much does it weigh? Looks good.

Steel tube 16ga. 1in. od, steel rectangle tube 1/2 x1.5. I had a bender put the 3" radius bends in and the tube is 48" inside side to side. Total length is 74" so it will be a few inches from the front of the windshield and a few from the open top of the tailgate. It is suprisingly light for the size and materials used. I can easily lift it. I'm guessing 45 to 50 pounds as I used a fifty pound sack of sand to counteract the effects of welders warp and it is about the same weight. I put the bends in the top round tube where it joins the bottom tube with a 1" conduit bender. It took 1/2 day Friday, 1/2 day Sat and 2.5 hrs grinding today. I plan on having it media blasted and I will rattle can it after that. The feet are comming from Spector's Wilderness rack and will cost more than the rack did. This the second one I have made but this one turned out much better. My welds were much tighter this time round. Thanks for your comments.

Man that is some pretty sweet work, nicer than the one I made, and about half the weight.

That's a nice looking rack. I'm just curious, what kind of welding rig did you use (mig, tig, arc, gas)?

IH8Wood said:

That's a nice looking rack. I'm just curious, what kind of welding rig did you use (mig, tig, arc, gas)?

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I have a Hobart Handler 135Mig that I have had for bout three years. I like it because it is 110 and I can use it any where on house hold current. I think it has been replaced by the Handler 140 now. I have never had a problem with cycle time as I just slow down and do some grinding or cutting between cooling off periods. I actually never needed to slow down or stop on this project except to change tips. I am using flux core wire but I have two tanks (argon-CO2) ready to go when I run out of the flux filled. I'm going to start using 20# spools of solid as it saves a bit over smaller wire spools. It's a nice little unit for what I will be using it for. I also have two torch units, one portable and one that sits in the garage, but seem to use those for heating things and not for welding. Hope this answered your questions.

Sweet looking rack! I like the design a lot. How are you going to hinge the access panel thingy?

Rezarf <><

I looked at the African Outback rack and it seemed like a good way to do it but with a few different ideas like having it open the opposite way, ie, open to the front instead of to the back and slimming down the frame. I really have to figure it out as I look at it on the truck and think it out as I go. I'm the type that has to see it as I go and design on the run. Creative thinker?! I might make it a lift out as well instead of hinged, have to give it some thought.

That looks awesome photogod.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Beautiful.


Do you have a crane to lift it up on the roof?



Kidding...


Do paint it very well. You do not want rusty water dripping on your roof panel.


D-

cruiserdan said:

Beautiful.
Do you have a crane to lift it up on the roof?
Kidding...
Do paint it very well. You do not want rusty water dripping on your roof panel.


D-

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Smart arse! First the diamond plate then this. What's a guy gotta do? Thin wall tempered steel helped a lot in weight reduction.

It really is quite light for steel. I can easily lift it with one arm tied behind my back you

I called Slee on the weight of their aluminum rack...90LB's. If this one is only 50LB's I am buying a 1" die for my bender...
Again...thanks for sharing and good looking work.

Use epoxy paint on that rack and it will last a long time. Looks sweet.

brittan said:

I called Slee on the weight of their aluminum rack...90LB's. If this one is only 50LB's I am buying a 1" die for my bender...
Again...thanks for sharing and good looking work.

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That surprises me that the aluminum rack is that heavy. I guess it is really built for the worst conditions. This thing is plenty strong for what I am going to use it for!. I think the thin wall tempered steel has a lot to do with the light weight. This doesn't have the eight gutter clamps on it yet so i'm sure that will add a bit.

photogod said:

Smart arse! First the diamond plate then this. What's a guy gotta do? Thin wall tempered steel helped a lot in weight reduction.

It really is quite light for steel. I can easily lift it with one arm tied behind my back you

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Yup, with some of these in the front lawn...

I meant it when I said it was a beaut by the way. How do you plan to paint it and with what? I have a steel rack that I need to refinish and I'm looking for ideas...

cruiserdan said:

Yup, with some of these in the front lawn...

I meant it when I said it was a beaut by the way. How do you plan to paint it and with what? I have a steel rack that I need to refinish and I'm looking for ideas...

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I was joshin, as you know Dan. As for the paint, I was thinking I might try the Krylon method. I painted my last one with the Industrial Rust-O-Stuff and was not real happy with the final outcome. I never have liked that stuff. I really prefer Krylon to Rus-O. There are some really good Marine epoxy bariercaots and topcoats but I don't want the mess of getting the sprayer out and dealing with a two part and that stuff is upwards of $100+ a gal. VC-Tar2 by Interlux is really good stuff and I have used it on boat hulls before, Interprotect 2000E is another but the problem comes in where you really need to make sure there are zero spots missed and with the over laping slatson my rack I am sure i will not be able to cover all surfaces 100% and that will lead to surface rust. They also dry to a 2.5 mil thickness so you need to give it three or four coats to really seal it well. Cripes, I would spend ten times more time if I went that rout over rattle cans. That being said, there is nothing as pretty as a steel appliance covered with marine epoxy. So if I spend all that time and effort basically waterproofing the metal only to miss acouple of spots I am going to have to do it again and throw more money at it. If I could dip the rack I would be much happier but thats not going to happen. Since I have a sand blaster and the ability to refinish at will I will prolly just get the best rattlecan I can find and do it that way and have the ability to refinish it every couple years if need be. I might paint on some POR-15 as a rust inhibitor as I could do that on the cheap compaired to marine coatings and POR is pretty good at self leveling. Powder coating was high on my list as well but I am going to be bashing gas cans and such up there and I want to be able to refinish it when it scratches so that leads me back to the rattle cans. They seem to be a realistic and cost effective way to coat the rack and not be to expensive to refinish. I painted my M101 trailer with Krylon and that stuff is wearing like iron and is really easy to touch up. So I guess after all is said and done I will just resort to the rattle cans and give it three or four coats over a sand blasted and primed surface and call it a day. Blasting will allow a rougher surface for good adheasion for the prime coat so it should last a couple years of moderate use. I am a anyhow when it comes to abusing my rigs so they last forever. Wow, I guess that was a very long winded way to say I'm going to use cheap spray paint!

What are your thoughts on your refinish?

gutters measure 52" fyi.

Have it powder coated with cardinals black satin texture, 70% gloss.
j