Hi/Low shift ball (1 Viewer)

In the transfercase there is the shift ball detent assembly that helps select high and low range. Should the spring just be screwed all of the way down, or is there a specific amount of resistance that is more suited. I took some things apart and didn't really pay attention to this during disassembly. Screwed all of the way down it is still shiftable, but It feels better about 2 turns out.
Thanks, just curious.

I just slapped mine (78)back together this morning. I did the same dang thing you did. I just screwed it down until the cotter pin would slide in the groove of the screw head. I think it will work, but I won't find out for another year or two since it a frame off.

Just deep enough to get the cotter pin across will generally work. It's a matter of balance between sliding easily, but not popping out of place.

Did you find anything else out of whack?

No, I didn't find anything else out of whack. I really suspected the splines or sleeve being messed up, but they were in really good shape still. The assembly the fork is on was in great shape, no grime or buildup.There were still a few occasions before I had it completely together where the shifting was funny. This time instead of not getting low range, I was getting low range but not getting high range. A tiny twist of the driveshaft and everything would slide right in place. How misalignment like this didn't work itselft out on the trail, I don't know. But if it happens in the future, a little for and aft movement should fix it. All of my linkage was in good shape, but I peeled off the boots and regreased everything anyways, changed out my old broken shift lever and loosened the shift ball a little tiny bit, it is still in a little farther than the cotter pin though, and I expect it to eventually move back to the pin. Also realized my transfer had a clogged vent, so fixed that too. I was pleasently surprised that I could pull the trans hump off and work on everything from the comfort of the front seat.

The forks wear on the sides of each tang, sometimes pretty deeply. IMO, if there's any significant wear to the fork it ought to be changed because the worn points effect the distance that the fork/clutch sleeve move and could result in the T/C popping out of gear (this is NOT speaking to the issues being experienced by owners of the Orion transfercases).

Adjusting the spring tension to the point that the cotterpin will pass through is fine IF the spring is not broken and the fork is not badly worn.