4x4Labs 1-ton TRE's & HD connecting rod on FZJ-80 (1 Viewer)

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clownmidget

clownmidget

Joined
Jul 2, 2003
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Location
Trumansburg, New York
I just recently got this set up from Luke at 4x4Labs and wanted to share for those that have a FZJ-80 and are looking for some beefier steering control when going to larger tires and lift. I know that a lot of folks "upgrade" to the 80 series TRE's but after talking with Luke about the GM 1-ton ends and their specs that surpass the 80's, I went with his set up. The connecting rod is the standard 0.25" DOM tube. The TRE's have a nice zirc fitting and use jam nuts so I'm hoping this would help if a trail fix is ever needed.

I still need to decide on how I will deal with the steering rod since the oem one has the eyelet for the steering stabilizer. I know I could just go with a clamp mount on the arm but wanted to hear input from others on this.

My biggest issue right now is that I need to get a taper reamer for the GM ends for the two holes on the axles steering arms. Once the holes are reamed out I'll post a pic of it mounted up. See here if you can help out with this step (https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=700252#post700252).

So just an FYI, there is an option to just the HD rod with the 80 ends for folks wheeling their 80's. Luke got the rod cut, tapped and sent out to me in less than a day so I'm pretty pleased with the service to say the least. My plans are to go ahead and do the front steering arm as time and $$ permits. Oh, and in terms of $$ this setup was very well priced.

Pics to follow, sorry.

Mike
 
clownmidget said:
My biggest issue right now is that I need to get a taper reamer for the GM ends for the two holes on the axles steering arms.
Mike
Click to expand...

Luke will do it for you for the price of shipping. It took him 1 day to turn mine around and ship it back to me.
 
Pics

Still waiting for my own tapered reamer to show up so I can install but here is a pic of the stock 80-series TRE and the GM 1-tons w/ rod. Can't wait to get this on.
 
Last edited:
Rusty, I did a google search and got quite a bit from Lists (mainly Jeepers) and then once I read through enough I found some had posted part numbers. It seems the hand reamer from Snap-On is the most common one folks use for "limited" use of say less than 10 times. A lot of folks disagreed strongly and said you really needed the fluted drill style. The Snap-On was #121R and is online for $44. The "real deal" ones started at $80. I found one from a local auto machine shop supplier for that price too (Dormer # 48015). Luke gave me the MacTools part number 1221rr but I couldn't find it online. The specs are 1.5"/ft taper (7-deg), 23/32" minor, 3/4" major, pilot drill 43/64" for the TRE, 23/32" for the draglink.
 
clownmidget said:
Rusty, I did a google search and got quite a bit from Lists (mainly Jeepers) and then once I read through enough I found some had posted part numbers. It seems the hand reamer from Snap-On is the most common one folks use for "limited" use of say less than 10 times. A lot of folks disagreed strongly and said you really needed the fluted drill style. The Snap-On was #121R and is online for $44. The "real deal" ones started at $80. I found one from a local auto machine shop supplier for that price too (Dormer # 48015). Luke gave me the MacTools part number 1221rr but I couldn't find it online. The specs are 1.5"/ft taper (7-deg), 23/32" minor, 3/4" major, pilot drill 43/64" for the TRE, 23/32" for the draglink.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
clownmidget said:
The specs are 1.5"/ft taper (7-deg), 23/32" minor, 3/4" major, pilot drill 43/64" for the TRE, 23/32" for the draglink.
Click to expand...


What ends are these specifications for?

one-ton tie rod?

one ton drag link?

80 series?


Thanks!


-Steve
 
Is the OEM rod really that weak? I can see the ends being upgraded.
 
I am using these as well. Part numbers for you

ES2010L pass side tie rod with no hole for drag link
ES2234R driver side tie rod

ES2026L drag link
ES2026R drag link

Not sure of the GM/dodge application.

There is also ES2233L tie rod that has a hole for the drag link that would replace ES2010L if you wanted that option.
 
Dude, thanks for the GM part number for the draglink w/hole. That will make keeping the steerig stabilizer in it's current place a lot easier.

Also, where'd you score your XML's in that size? I was running the 9.0R16 XZL's but got rid of them due to too difficult to find.
 
No problem.

I got the tires used from a local tire center. They are becoming harder and harder to find.

I also ran the 9.00R16 but fouind them too skinny. I now run them on my trailer.
 
The Dude said:
I am using these as well. Part numbers for you

ES2010L pass side tie rod with no hole for drag link
ES2234R driver side tie rod

ES2026L drag link
ES2026R drag link

Not sure of the GM/dodge application.

There is also ES2233L tie rod that has a hole for the drag link that would replace ES2010L if you wanted that option.
Click to expand...

In your 62 .. ?
 
On my 61 with 4x4 labs high steer
 
DSC04274.jpg
 
yup, I used the stock pitman arm. The picture above is before I reamed it out to fit the 1 ton ends. With it reamed out it sits further into the arm. I was concerned about removing too much material, but it appears to be holding up.
 
The Dude said:
yup, I used the stock pitman arm. The picture above is before I reamed it out to fit the 1 ton ends. With it reamed out it sits further into the arm. I was concerned about removing too much material, but it appears to be holding up.
Click to expand...

I can save this pic in my PC .. ? ( you know for my future inspiration .. :D
 
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