Who sells the best kit for rear disc brakes, or should I just buy brakets and piece it together with MC calipers?
Rear disc brakes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rusty Shackleford
- Start date
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Check the tech section. There is a guy who has the pattern for the bracket as a scale PDF file. I had my wife take it to work and print it off at full scale. I took the pattern to a buddy who cut them out of 1/4" stainless for me. Loaded them up with the MonteCarlo calipers and used the GM truck rotors. Probably have less than $200 total into the rear brakes.
Go to my webpage and read up on it. The pattern is there. But I Do NOT SELL the brackets anymore. Get the brackets from JT outfitters.
http://wejacks.com/disk-brakes/disks.html
http://wejacks.com/disk-brakes/disks.html
BTB Products
TSM
TSM
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for all the info guys. I think I will go with the Poser brackets and piece the rest of the stuff together from local parts stores, whoever can give me the best price on rotors and calipers. JT wants 5 bills for the kit. MAF 4 bills. BTB wants $390 with no hoses or fittings, so I should save a few bucks by getting the rotors and getting them machined out to 4.21" and buying loaded calipers, hoses, fitting and hardware from CarQuest or whoever has the best prices.
I bought the brackets on ebay I think,,, but I know they were from JT. I also bought the stainless/braided lines from them as well, which is really worth it. Has the bango ends and the toyota on the other.
later
Ryan
later
Ryan
Here is a web page that has all the specs. One of the guys on the board here sent it to me.
http://wejacks.com/disk-brakes/disks.html
http://wejacks.com/disk-brakes/disks.html
If you want to do the kit way check out BTB's web site they have directions on the install. IF you don't go with the kit print off there directions and pictures as a guide.
I used Poser's brackets and they fit perfectly. If you do not go with a kit, you'll have to have the center of the rotors machined. I got mine done for a 12 pack.
Also, when you order rotors, seems like there are at least two designs, one with a thicker center and one with a thinner one. You really should get the thin one otherwise you end up with not much lugnut thread, if that makes sense. I got lucky on the first try. I don't know whether it varies by manufacturer or model.
Alternately, you could pull the axles and have longer studs pressed in.
Gl
Ed
You can buy a decent double flare tool and still end up with way less than the cost of a "kit"
Also, when you order rotors, seems like there are at least two designs, one with a thicker center and one with a thinner one. You really should get the thin one otherwise you end up with not much lugnut thread, if that makes sense. I got lucky on the first try. I don't know whether it varies by manufacturer or model.
Alternately, you could pull the axles and have longer studs pressed in.
Gl
Ed
You can buy a decent double flare tool and still end up with way less than the cost of a "kit"
Last edited:
dgangle
total rice
If you are looking for a machine shop to open up the center of your GM rotors I found the big machine shops that advertise they do small jobs wanted way, way more than I thought it should cost...something like $100/ea. I asked around and after a big PITA I found a small hole-in-the-wall shop that did both for $60. Still too much in my opinion. If I were to do it again I would buy the rotors already with the centers opened up from one of the companies offering them (JTO I think) and end up paying the same with allot less time and aggravation.
Of course if you have a big lathe, are a machinist or have one in the family/best buddy disregard.
It's frustrating paying someone through the nose to do something you know how todo but don't have the correct tool.
Of course if you have a big lathe, are a machinist or have one in the family/best buddy disregard.
It's frustrating paying someone through the nose to do something you know how todo but don't have the correct tool.
There are at least a million ways to do it - and about two million threads like this arguing the pros and cons of each.
Kits are expensive - so is your time, just depends what you have more of - money or time.
I used weld-on brackets from AA Mfg ($15), cheapo rotors ($50), cheapo reman calipers ($75), and bling stainless hoses from Downey ($80) I got the rotors turned for free and have a good rate with the local parts house. There will be other people who probably got theirs done for half of my cost too - there are lots of options here.
Kits are expensive - so is your time, just depends what you have more of - money or time.
I used weld-on brackets from AA Mfg ($15), cheapo rotors ($50), cheapo reman calipers ($75), and bling stainless hoses from Downey ($80) I got the rotors turned for free and have a good rate with the local parts house. There will be other people who probably got theirs done for half of my cost too - there are lots of options here.
- Thread starter
- #13
I guess I need to check on the rotor work first. I don't have anyone who will work me a deal and I sure don't want to pay up to $100 for that alone. I definately want to get the thin rotors so I have plenty of lug nut threads left. I hope I don't have to use spacers to clear the wheels. I have M/T Classic Lock wheels with 3-5/8" backspacing. Anyone used these wheels or similar size and run into problems with the calipers rubbing?
How about a local VoTech school? I had no problems with 15x8 Outlaws with 3.5" BS, and the rotor should set you out 1/8' anyway. You should be good.
GL
Ed
GL
Ed
dgangle
total rice
Rusty Shackleford said:
I am using Profitt's brackets, Monte calipers with MT Classic II wheels with 3 5/8" back-spacing with no rubbing whatsoever. I believe these are the same as your rims less the rim lock thingy.
Also I have not heard of the thin vs. thick rotor deal...I used the wejacks link as my guide. For rotors use Bendix 141454, Napa 85977, Raybestos 5977. They all are the same.
If you need a longer studs get those from the rear of an FJ60 Toy #90942-02052. They are like 1.75" long, about 1/2" longer than stock FJ's IIRC.
The rotor material is thin enough to use a jigsaw to open up the centers. That is what I did as machine shops around here want way to much $$$. I pieced everything together but have not added up the cost yet.
dgangle
total rice
How do you keep your rotor centered on the LC axle? The wheel studs may get it close but there is some slop. I guess as long as the rotor mounts flush with the axle a little up and down movement wouldn't hurt much...as long as it wasn't so severe that the rotor came in contact with the caliper. I considered doing this when I was getting the go-away prices for machining. I chickened out and paid up.John Smith said:
- Thread starter
- #18
I got one person who may be able to help me out with the rotors. I'll find out if and how much it will cost. If it's cheap enough, I'll just buy the brackets and build the kit myself. I hope he will cut me a deal. I guess I could always sit down with a rasp and go to town 
on the rotors.
"I am using Profitt's brackets, Monte calipers with MT Classic II wheels with 3 5/8" back-spacing with no rubbing whatsoever. I believe these are the same as your rims less the rim lock thingy."
My wheels should work if your do. They are exactly the same except for the ring thingy.
on the rotors. "I am using Profitt's brackets, Monte calipers with MT Classic II wheels with 3 5/8" back-spacing with no rubbing whatsoever. I believe these are the same as your rims less the rim lock thingy."
My wheels should work if your do. They are exactly the same except for the ring thingy.
I am also using Profitt's brackets, and experience ZERO rubbing w/Monte calipers and STOCK cruiser wheels.
I think my rotor machining expenses were $20 and some Ice Cream
Look around...anyone w/a lathe and some spare-time can take care of you.
(a pair of rotors can be machined together to save time)
As far as brake kits go, I don't recommend them.
It always seems to be more $$ then putting one together as time permits.
Give vendors a call if you have questions, it will be OBVIOUS which vendors deserve your business pretty quickly.
manny
I think my rotor machining expenses were $20 and some Ice Cream
Look around...anyone w/a lathe and some spare-time can take care of you.
(a pair of rotors can be machined together to save time)
As far as brake kits go, I don't recommend them.
It always seems to be more $$ then putting one together as time permits.
Give vendors a call if you have questions, it will be OBVIOUS which vendors deserve your business pretty quickly.
manny
