Dakkar springs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Deez
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CS001F is front
CS001R is rear
the rears have a significantly larger arc to them, compared to the front springs.
If you have recieved four 'identical' leaf spring assemblies, then you have all fronts, or all rears.
Do you have the ability to post up a picture of what you have?
Military wrap end of the leaf spring pack attaches to the frame pin, non-shackle end....
Good luck!
-Steve
CS001R is rear
the rears have a significantly larger arc to them, compared to the front springs.
If you have recieved four 'identical' leaf spring assemblies, then you have all fronts, or all rears.
Do you have the ability to post up a picture of what you have?
Military wrap end of the leaf spring pack attaches to the frame pin, non-shackle end....
Good luck!
-Steve
- Thread starter
- #3
I understand that there are front and back springs I'm just wondering if there is a front and rear drivers side spring. From what I heard about OME there is a front and rear driver side that have added arch or whatever to help compensate for the extra wear that the drivers side recieve. Is this true for Dakar springs or even OME springs or is this a myth?
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I have only heard of OME using side specific spring rates. I dont think Dakkar have side spring rates that differ.
Rezarf <><
Rezarf <><
REZARF said:
The Dakkar springs are made/spec'd by Old Man Emu (OME) so if OME does have side specific rates this is a legitimate question - do the Dakkars also? OME claims that the Dakkar springs are technically identical but made in Malaysia at a reduced labor cost, hence the reduced retail price.
I'd think that if they were side specific they'd be marked for such but the only differentiation is the "F" and "R" with the part number (see Poser above) painted on each spring. So I think that the answer is NO.
In addition to the deeper arch of the rear springs they have an additional leaf, a flat one, that the fronts don't come with. Just another way to tell them apart in case the stencil is gone or unreadable.
Believe Dakkar springs are military wrapped at both ends?
Good questions as I am getting ready to do this install. How do you tell the which is the shackle end and the pin end?
Oh, and is there any updated info reguarding the questions above?
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Look at the last post in my build thread. (link below... ) I just put mine on.
jackbrad,
Thanks, I think that will help. I am guessing that the painted crosses go to the pin side? I just want to do it correctly the first time.
Thanks, I think that will help. I am guessing that the painted crosses go to the pin side? I just want to do it correctly the first time.
I think that the only painted markings to consider reliable are the part numbers for front and rear as posted by Poser above.
You can be safe by installing the long end of each spring toward the shackle. By long side I mean that the distance from the centerbolt to the ends of the spring are not the sameeach way, or the pin isn't in the middle of the spring.
You can be safe by installing the long end of each spring toward the shackle. By long side I mean that the distance from the centerbolt to the ends of the spring are not the sameeach way, or the pin isn't in the middle of the spring.
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Mine are right.... if they dont look the same they aren.t right: )
kidding...
yes front pluses go to the back ....
the back springs have a special leaf the the front does have. they dont look the same. I can send pics if you need
kidding...
yes front pluses go to the back ....
the back springs have a special leaf the the front does have. they dont look the same. I can send pics if you need
I don't think ARB/Old Man Emu has made springs that were intended to go on the left or right side for years. I may be wrong, but I seem to remember this practice stopping a few years ago. I have bought a few of their FJ40 kits over the years and they were different a long time ago (and cheaper my first set cost me $750 for the complete kit in 1995). To clarify, my first few kits came with a drivers front, passenger front, drivers rear, passenger rear. The last one I got a few years ago came with just front springs and rear springs.
Check with an ARB Specific Vedor, I bought my all of mine from James at 4x4connection.com
-Stumbaugh
Check with an ARB Specific Vedor, I bought my all of mine from James at 4x4connection.com
-Stumbaugh
Thanks for all the good info. I will be ready when Man-a-fre sends me the correct parts. They sent me stuff for 8/80 to 83. I have a 1/80. they goofed up but are making it right with no hassles. Steve seems to be very nice and competant.
i remember reading in the F A Q suspension section about somebody mixing up the left and right springs and it made their truck lean to the driver side. the left and right springs were swapped and solved the problem. i looked back but couldn't find it.
Deez,
I'm in the middle of this job myself, have the rears on and completed and the old fronts off and ready to put the Dakars on the fronts after a little cleaning and painting. I called Bob at TPI where I bought the kit and the fronts and rears are different as you know but left and right sides are the same. Bob also advised me to remove the bottom helper leafs from the rears for a little softer ride and to avoid hanging up on rocks/logs/etc. I did that. This is on a '76 FJ40 with a soft top. If you're running the hard top or carrying weight in the rear, you might want to leave thoise bottom leaves on there.
The short end of the springs go toward the frame pins, the long sides to the shackles.
I have no idea what my old springs were (I believe they may have been an old 2" or 2.5" lift) but they were bent and rusty and stiff as hell. I could immediuately see a lot more droop with the Dakars. I hope the ride is good as she's my daily driver.
Pete
I'm in the middle of this job myself, have the rears on and completed and the old fronts off and ready to put the Dakars on the fronts after a little cleaning and painting. I called Bob at TPI where I bought the kit and the fronts and rears are different as you know but left and right sides are the same. Bob also advised me to remove the bottom helper leafs from the rears for a little softer ride and to avoid hanging up on rocks/logs/etc. I did that. This is on a '76 FJ40 with a soft top. If you're running the hard top or carrying weight in the rear, you might want to leave thoise bottom leaves on there.
The short end of the springs go toward the frame pins, the long sides to the shackles.
I have no idea what my old springs were (I believe they may have been an old 2" or 2.5" lift) but they were bent and rusty and stiff as hell. I could immediuately see a lot more droop with the Dakars. I hope the ride is good as she's my daily driver.
Pete
Thanks for all the great info.
I don't feel quite so lost now. I think I will leave the helper spring on as it was designed. I also have a softtop. I havent heard taking off the helper spring anywhere else. He might be right but why chance it, IMHO. I cant wait to get it all put together.
I don't feel quite so lost now. I think I will leave the helper spring on as it was designed. I also have a softtop. I havent heard taking off the helper spring anywhere else. He might be right but why chance it, IMHO. I cant wait to get it all put together.
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Pete said:
hmmmm.... I dont understand....
I put mine on with the springs pointy part towards the shackles on the front..... Why would it matter.
I dont know what to trust... so I guess I need to understand why....
Jack,
The springs are not symmetrical and how they are mounted affects where the axle is located. Some guys put the long end (measured from the end of the spring to the center pin) toward the frame pin to lengthewn the wheel base slightly but I personally think this looks like crap because the wheels won't be centered in the wheel cut outs. For purely an off-road rig with cut fenders anyway, who cares about th elooks.
Pete
The springs are not symmetrical and how they are mounted affects where the axle is located. Some guys put the long end (measured from the end of the spring to the center pin) toward the frame pin to lengthewn the wheel base slightly but I personally think this looks like crap because the wheels won't be centered in the wheel cut outs. For purely an off-road rig with cut fenders anyway, who cares about th elooks.
Pete
762fmj said:Thanks for all the great info.
Bob at TPI is an old pro and the helper leafs won't even "help" until there's lots of weight in the rear. They also are more prone to snag on rocks, logs, etc. I'm putting my fronts on this afternoon so I haven't driven it yet...just going by his advice. Also, I've heard of many cases of removing a leaf or two (not necessarily "helper" leafs) on a variety of suspensions for a softer ride and more flex.
Pete
Removing that leaf is accepted practice and has been for a long time. The knowledgable vendors know about it and some will ask about your intended use of the truck so that if it sounds like the loads will be relatively light in back they can recommend the removal.
I think of that leaf as an overload spring and did not use it in my BJ40 because it's a factory softtop and nothing heavy is going to be carried in back.
I think of that leaf as an overload spring and did not use it in my BJ40 because it's a factory softtop and nothing heavy is going to be carried in back.
