Tools R Us is a BAD DUDE! (1 Viewer)

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Welcome to AZ heat! :flipoff2:

When the AZ sun is down I have a hard time going about 180 water temp even with evening ambient 95 degrees. In fact even with ambient temp 90 degrees at night pulling a 6% grade at 80mph+ I rarely reach 200 degrees water temp, EGT is a different story.

The Ron Davis Alm radiator is 1/2" thicker then the factory.

We can get the factory fan to clear the SC but we have not determined if it will hit the alm radiator at high RPM. Tools R Us has a BF lathe we will be able to mount the fan clutches and fans to for testing. Then we can determine what clutch mods work and how much the factory fan will flex.

We are also in search of black Asian factory fan clutch (used or new) for testing purposes. If you have one available we would like to look at it.

As Tools noted when the trucks are side by side the SC fan does not pull close to a factory fan. Presently I'm using a Hayden clutch that you cannot stop using the Robbie method.

Bottom line is that the SC fan will work well until ambient temp go above 100 degrees. At that point it does not matter how good your cooling system is because the SC fan does not work in AZ.

Side note in respect to a turbo intercooler. I bypassed the throttle body fuel heater on my SC'd 80. Did not change the cooling but did seem to give a little better throttle response.
 
Side note in respect to a turbo intercooler. I bypassed the throttle body fuel heater on my SC'd 80. Did not change the cooling but did seem to give a little better throttle response.
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this is a very popular mod to do on Supra TT's it only seems to be a problem on cold start up at very low ambiant temps.
 
How about trimming the blades of the original fan. I'd install the original fan, bend one of the blades to contact the rad surface, then using something 1/4" thick against the blade and the radiators surface trace a line and see how much would be removed. Maybe it's nothing more than the last bit of the tip and being plastic you might be accurate enough for it not to vibrate. Or maybe build a jig to accurately trim the blades.

even if it turned out to have a high rpm Vib, you could atleast maybe test the temps at idle to see if you are travelling the right road.
 
The obvious solution is to ditch the fan clutch altogether, make a custom spacer to space the factory OEM fan anywhere you want it and spin it full-speed with the engine all the time...heck you got a S/C, you got power to burn...and it would solve the fan issue.. :D
 
landtank said:
How about trimming the blades of the original fan. I'd install the original fan, bend one of the blades to contact the rad surface, then using something 1/4" thick against the blade and the radiators surface trace a line and see how much would be removed. Maybe it's nothing more than the last bit of the tip and being plastic you might be accurate enough for it not to vibrate. Or maybe build a jig to accurately trim the blades.

even if it turned out to have a high rpm Vib, you could atleast maybe test the temps at idle to see if you are travelling the right road.
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After putting the fan through the 2nd radiator in Moab this year, I removed the shroud and also trimmed the tips of the fan. If you look at the shape of the blade, it has a straight edge and then the tip curves out. I just extended the straight edge and used a cutting disk to remove the leading edge. Gave an additiol 1/2"+ of clearance. I did not notice any vibrations on the fan.
 
Trimming the blades is an option, by cutting them while spinning in the lathe we can get them pretty straight, but a factory fan that fit would be best. One of the things we want to find out is how much the blades flex at full RPM, how much clearance is needed to the radiator? It would suck to install the trimmed fan and have it eat the radiator!
 
I know this is agaist convential wisdom but.

I have installed 2 180deg OEM t-stats in 2F motors.......in both case the temps droped 10+ degs, this is measured with a Raytech in numerous spots. Both rigs had FULLY new cooling systems and new OEM 190(or whatever they are) t-stats. ALL I did was change to the 180 stat and the REAL temps droped by the same amount. Also the guage needs lower, not like I trust that.

I KNOW this is not how its suppose to work......but it has worked for me on 2 cruisers. I also was not trying to cure an overheating issue, i just wanted to run at a bit lower temps.

Just tossing it out there for ya all.

John
 
mabrodis said:
The obvious solution is to ditch the fan clutch altogether, make a custom spacer to space the factory OEM fan anywhere you want it and spin it full-speed with the engine all the time...heck you got a S/C, you got power to burn...and it would solve the fan issue.. :D
Click to expand...

The clutch is not the issue, the fan is too thick, won't fit between the supercharger belt and radiator. The OEM fan is not made to run at full RPM, locking it up = expensive shrapnel!
 
Tools R Us said:
Trimming the blades is an option, by cutting them while spinning in the lathe we can get them pretty straight, but a factory fan that fit would be best. One of the things we want to find out is how much the blades flex at full RPM, how much clearance is needed to the radiator? It would suck to install the trimmed fan and have it eat the radiator!
Click to expand...

It is not only the blades that flex, it is also the body that moves on the body mounts when you drop it off a ledge. Or even when you do recovery and you yank someone on a tow strap. It is amazing how much the body can move.
 
Landpimp said:
I know this is agaist convential wisdom but.

I have installed 2 180deg OEM t-stats in 2F motors.......in both case the temps droped 10+ degs, this is measured with a Raytech in numerous spots. Both rigs had FULLY new cooling systems and new OEM 190(or whatever they are) t-stats. ALL I did was change to the 180 stat and the REAL temps droped by the same amount. Also the guage needs lower, not like I trust that.
John
Click to expand...

Phil's rig has a TRD 170 degree? stat in good working condition.
 
I personally think that trimming the original fan down is a better option than finding one to fit. I just think that the odds are that you're not going to find a fan off the shelf that would fit as well as a custom one. I'd also hope that the one that was included with the SC kits was the best avaiable replacement and not just the easiest one.
 
sleeoffroad said:
It is not only the blades that flex, it is also the body that moves on the body mounts when you drop it off a ledge. Or even when you do recovery and you yank someone on a tow strap. It is amazing how much the body can move.
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Yep, the motor moves around a bunch too. How much clearance do you have to the radiator? Is yours a stock setup? Do you think the body lift has something to do with it or just the extreme beating you give it? :D
 
landtank said:
I'd also hope that the one that was included with the SC kits was the best avaiable replacement and not just the easiest one.
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It was probably the best available replacement when the kit was designed, what in the mid nineties? There maybe better options now?
 
I have 1.75" between the tips of the blades and the core. This is with a 3 row oem 93 radiator. I do think the body lift makes the movement worse. The reason I kept killing the radiators is that the tip of the fan got caught between the shroud and the bottom of the radiator. It then bent in and cut open the tubes.

You can also make a donut ring (1.5" or so) out of sheet metal and install it on the radiator in front of the fan. This will help if the fan ever did touch down on the radiator.
 
Tools R Us said:
Trimming the blades is an option, by cutting them while spinning in the lathe we can get them pretty straight, but a factory fan that fit would be best. One of the things we want to find out is how much the blades flex at full RPM, how much clearance is needed to the radiator? It would suck to install the trimmed fan and have it eat the radiator!
Click to expand...


Aparently the blades deflect enough to contact the aluminum radiator and hit it hard enough to chew the radiator up.

As we speak I have two clutches side-by-side in the bench. One with a stock blade on it and one with a ringed blade. The very tips of the stock blade are about 1/8 of an inch taller than the ring on the other fan.

In my vehicle there is 1 and 1/16 of an inch clearance between the ring of the blade and the back of the radiator core (brass three row type).

This tells me that the stock blade tips flex furthrer than that. The spacer is about 3/4 of an inch thick. This tells me that the blade flexes more than an inch and a sixteenth but less than an inch and thirteen sixteenths.

Tools,

You need to spin up a stock blade and see if you can measure about how much it flexes. Then cut the tips and see what you get. We will need to get a blade with less flex.

The 94-5 3.0 V6 blade is similar to the ringed fan but without the ring. The blades are shorter than the original fan and as such they may not flex out as far under load. I gotta think that even though the diameter is smaller than stock it would still pull more air than the ringed blade due to the vortex.

D-
 
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My guess is that it was/is the easiest one that fit. Maybe Slee can show a picture of his trim job. That would give us who have the old fan still a rough guide. I have a tough time visualzing.
 
Because the blades bend in an arch the cut line for the trim would only be parrallel to the rad surface when it was touching. So the trim job would be a pie shaped piece out at the outer edge, not down the whole length of the blade.

Right now I personally would move forward with trying to fab up a hoop to attach to the radiator as a guard before trimming the fan.
 
If a guard is placed with no trimming, it has been proven so to speak, that the fan would touch the guard often, wht not do both. I would think in slee's case that the BL makes the fan hit more freq. Of coarse his has hit twice now and should think about removing more, if I were him. It only takes one good hit of the rad to ruin a afternoon sitting in the side of the road. It would only happen fully loaded with the beginning of a vacation, thats how murphy's law works.
 
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