Damn Grrr sound is back (1 Viewer)

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Romer

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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Centennial, Colorado
Driving around last night I heard no noise. Now today it was back. It's just when I am letting my foot off the gas. I did what the Driveshaft woes thread said and took it the front drive shaft, cleaned it, greased the zircs and put it back on. The other thing I saw had to do with the lift. Since I put my winch on, the front end rides a little lower. One thread had someone placeing the spacers in there and it went away. So I see a several options:
1) Add a spacer to change the pitch
2) Take the driveshaft off and take it to a shop and have it checked
3) or, could it be the output bearing on the Tcase?

What I would like to know is if a Tcase bearing would make a Grr under the following condition and no other time.

When I am traveling at a constant speed and I let off the gas, but still appling just a little is when it happens.

Tips would be appreciated. I think between what I found in the search and what I have listed above, I have covered everything I have seen here so far.

Robbie or Christo could probably just listen to it and tell me what it is. Too bad they are on the other side of town.

Ken
 
Sounds exactly like what I had on my 95. Started when I put the original OME lift on it. I replaced the u-joints and it got rid of some of it, but it came back after a few months. After I switched to MTRs, the tire noise drowned it out, so I ignored it until I put on the J-springs, then it became more of a vibration. I put on one of Christo's double-cardan front shafts and that cured the vibration. Can't tell if the original noise is gone or not though, due to tire noise.

I would try to find someone local who is running a double-cardan and swap with them and take it for a quick drive and see if that cures it. My bet is that it will.

Bob
 
That would tell me its not the Tcase out put bearing and it was probably the winch changing the angle causing the problem. If this is true, I should be able to coreect with Spacers (Or a heavy bumper on the back) right?

To test this, maybe I can throw some heavey sand bags in the bag. Rught now, I just want to know its not my Tcase, then I can look at the double-cardan front shafts or other options.
 
I drove around for a bit with 200 lbs of sand in the back. Doesn't seem as bad, but I need to drive it a few days. It's still there.

I wonder if Christo will sell me a double-cardan front shaft and let me return it if it doesn't fix the problem?
 
Romer, i swear i had heard before that cruisers have a knack of developing a noise and then it will eventually go away. I believe it to be true. I have recently had the same grrrrr sound. I removed my front drive shaft just as PM to grease it up really well and make sure the slip yoke wasn't overfilled. now mind you that before i did this i had no grrrrrr sound. Put the shaft back on exactly the way it came off cause i used a paint pen to make marks before i took it off and re-alligned the marks putting it back on. I had a terrible grrrrrr after the newly greased shaft was put back on. Then i added slee's caster plates and it was even worse. Now, two weeks later and about 1,000 miles later the grrrrrrr is almost completely gone. Why, i have not clue but i'm not messing with it any more.
 
Check your slip yoke for play. I've now replaced both my driveshafts for this. The U-Joints were fine but the yokes has movement. This might also explain why it was ok for a bit while freshly greased and then returned when the grease eeked out a little.
 
I took the shaft off again. The rear (tcase side) has equal tension as you move it around. The Front has a sweet spot in the middle were there is little tension. I'll take it to a driveshaft shop here in town tomorrow and have them check it out.

So of the items That came up in search before I started:
1) Clean out old greese and gease zircs - done no effect.
2) Check U-joints - Front Yoke too much play, have checked tomorrow.
3) Switch to double cardon from Slee- Will wait until I get the results of the current drive shaft
 
Last edited:
Thanks Christo, I am taking it to Englewood Drive Shaft this morning.
 
Got the drive shaft back from Englewood Drive shaft and put it on. Seems to run quite now. There were several issues:
1) It was slightly out of phase. It was marked wrong and installed wrong all this time and was 3 teeth off.
2) The Front U Joint haden't failed but had a dead spot he said it wasn't bad but it had a small issue.
3) Balanced it and it was at .07. He said anything above .05 is where you get and hear vibration issues. He balanced it to .02 (Might be off a decimal point)
 
sleeoffroad said:
Double cardon shaft does not work when the pinion angle/transfercase flange is not correct for it: My bet it is bad u joints.
Click to expand...

So Christo the Double Carden is not a plug and play option?

Will the double carden work on a 1997 that currently has stock front/rear drive shafts?

My truck is making some awful clanking noises and has some pretty strong vibrations/oscillations since the OME Heavy lift. I am thinking this is a good time to just go ahead and upgrade since I have basically upgraded the suspension and the steering...

Can the rig have a CV drive shaft up front and still keep the rear stock drive shaft? Vice versa as well...

Thanks in advance.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Beno - It takes about 20 minutes to take the drive shaft out. Clean out the splines and check your U joints. You can even get it balanced like I did. There is a thread in the FAQ titled drive shaft woes that might have some info for you. Clanking is one of the symptums. Cleaning it and re-installing it won't cost anything at leats. Balancing is about $50
 
Romer said:
Beno - It takes about 20 minutes to take the drive shaft out. Clean out the splines and check your U joints. You can even get it balanced like I did. There is a thread in the FAQ titled drive shaft woes that might have some info for you. Clanking is one of the symptums. Cleaning it and re-installing it won't cost anything at leats. Balancing is about $50
Click to expand...

True...

I guess I am trying to justify to myself to go the upgrade route. :rolleyes:

One major problem is that the nearest driveline shop is not too near at all--1.5 hour drive IIRC--at least a good one.

I'll give that a shot first after I install the swaybar drops/caster bushings.

My assumption is that the CV drive shafts are much stronger and durable than the OEM. But since these things are built like tanks I bet the OEM ones are really tight too.

Is there the possibility taking the drive shaft off and sending it to someone like Wood and having him make it into a CV style shaft? What is the cost on something like this?

Thanks for the info. Ken.
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Don't know about that. Nice thing about our rigs is we can drive without the front shaft for a while with the CDL.

If you want to ship it to me, I'll take it to Englewood DRive shaft. They can replace U Joints with Toyota OEMs and balnce it. Both U Joints and balancing cost me $195. I decided to replace both while it is off.
 
Romer said:
Don't know about that. Nice thing about our rigs is we can drive without the front shaft for a while with the CDL.

If you want to ship it to me, I'll take it to Englewood DRive shaft. They can replace U Joints with Toyota OEMs and balnce it. Both U Joints and balancing cost me $195. I decided to replace both while it is off.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer Ken...I might take you up on it based on what I find after I take the shafts off. And yes I do have the CDL. My assumption is that I just engage it in High and drive around trying to hear the noise and the vibrations...correct? At least I think that's what Ben at Slee told me...I've seen it here too.

Thanks again.
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Thats what I did. Take the front off and drive it for a bit. You won't hurt anything. If its still there, put it back on and take the rear off, it could be either. If it still makes the sound, look elsewhere.

I drove mine for 4 days on and off the highway without the shaft. No big deal.

While its off, clean it and grease the u joints. Move the yokes around to see if there is even tension. Mine had a sweet spot with no tension on one joint.
 
CV Shafts are made to work with pinion angles in a certain position. If yours are not like that, it won't work. Most likely you have the same situation as Ken, ie, a badly neglected driveshaft with u-joints that have flat spots on them. Tom Woods uses Dana : Spicer parts. We used those in the past but the cv suide does not last: Search past threads for info on the diy route using Tacoma shaft.
 
Bob at Englewood Drive Shafts said the best U Joints are made by Toyota.

Christo - Hope your having a great trip!
 
sleeoffroad said:
CV Shafts are made to work with pinion angles in a certain position. If yours are not like that, it won't work. Most likely you have the same situation as Ken, ie, a badly neglected driveshaft with u-joints that have flat spots on them. Tom Woods uses Dana : Spicer parts. We used those in the past but the cv suide does not last: Search past threads for info on the diy route using Tacoma shaft.
Click to expand...

So Christo--

My assumption is in my case that the driveline did not like the OME heavy lift and is responding accordingly--metal clanks, strong vibrations/oscillations at given RPM's.

Would replacing both front and rear OEM u-joints with new OEM u-joints and having the shafts balanced (like Ken suggested) make a difference? Also of course adding swaybar drops and OME caster bushings to round out the lift?

I don't have any access to Taco stuff, unless I go new from the dealer...but this sounds like an expensive proposition...

Thanks in advance and sorry to bother you in the South of France...

best
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Install the caster busihings first. If you have other noises then something else is wrong: Could be a lot of different things. Shock stems contacting due to washers not used correctly, sleeves on shocks bent etc etc:
 
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