CDL follow up with PIcs...still need help (1 Viewer)

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PKP80

PKP80

Joined
Nov 15, 2004
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Los Angeles, CA
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www.phipsi.net
So discovered that the CDL is on the same fuse as the gauge lights (please correct me if I"m wrong). I replaced the fuse and as soon as I turn on the gauge lights with the cdl not engauged fuse blows hardcore. If the CDL is engauged and the lights are turned on or off the fuse doesn't seem to blow (I wasn't able to try all combinations, ran out of 15amp fuses).

The guy who installed my radio used the CDL wires as the pwr, ground, and remote draw. That's what the 3 brown clip things in the pic are. So I disconncected the headunit connections and still same problem. The presence of the wire split shouldn't effect the draw as long as I don't have anything pluged into them. Oh and by the way, I still don't know if the Switch itself works. Could it be a bad switch that is causing a short?

And of course the fuses who sacraficed for the cause.

Big thanks in advance
 
Check to see what, if anything, the installer did with the other end of the factory wires.
 
PKP80 said:
So discovered that the CDL is on the same fuse as the gauge lights (please correct me if I"m wrong).
Click to expand...

Correct.


PKP80 said:
Could it be a bad switch that is causing a short?
Click to expand...

Unlikely. I'm wondering if the radio installer "converted" one of the wires to the CDL plug to be a ground. I glanced at the EWD and it doesn't appear that it will help much since the 93-97 factory wiring for US spec 80s has a shorting plug and that's what is documented in my EWD.

Maybe a 91-92 EWD would help?

-B-
 
someone posted a copy of an earlier EWD that showed the CDL switch, no other changes so it matches up nicely with the later EWD,

I hate those splice connectors, my parents had an RV that was wired with those. They have very poor reliability, like most shortcuts they burn you in the end.
 
Rich, All factory wires not used were capped off, I will double check tomorrow though
HOw would you convert a wire to be a ground ?

This might be a stupid one, but what about upping the fuse to a 20amp?

Should I take the splice pieces off and Electric tape the exposed wires? (Those are a headache to undo, plus I don't see how that would help).

Keep them coming.
 
I believe that you have plugged the wrong connector into the switch. You are attempting to operate your radio circuit with the cdl switch!

You need to find a connector that already is already connected to its mate. The mate has but a single yellow wire that loops back. Remove the connector with the single yellow wire (save it in case you ever wish to remove the cdl switch) and plug the other connector into your switch.
 
PKP80 said:
HOw would you convert a wire to be a ground ?

This might be a stupid one, but what about upping the fuse to a 20amp?
Click to expand...

Do NOT put in a 20amp fuse. You have a short that needs to be found and fixed.

If the installer found a plug that he saw was not being used, he *might* decide it would never be used and start getting creative with the wires. In your case, he picked up +12v unswitched (I think) and he needed a ground close to his radio wiring. He could have tapped in close to the radio, then cut it at the "other end" and tied that end off to a ground. Not the best way to do it but you never know with guys that are in a hurry and only care about getting the radio in.

-B-
 
If OEM wires were cut and capped off that sounds like your problem, the switch uses wires that were installed at the factory but not in use until you add the switch. They would have looked unused to this lazy installer,

It has been my experience that letting someone else work on you cruiser especially electrical is a bad idea, ask Junk and Doc,

You have a electrical problem adding a larger fuse will just make it worse, possibly destroying expensive parts and possibly cause a fire.
 
I think Rich is correct. The CDL plug is stuffed back into the dash and wrapped with gray foam. It has the jumper plug as Rich described. Pics and instructions are on Christo's web site.

-B-
 
Found a short further down the wire line, fixed it and hoping that was the problem....Thank you for the help guys....now to get some Fuses. You'll be hearing from me again if it doesn't work.

-Sam-
 
Wrong connector! The radio guy tapped into because it is for the radio circuit. Find the correct connector for the cdl switch.
 
Take those crimp connectors out and do it properly. They are the curse of modern times. You will have unreliable connections down the line. I hate those things, did I say I hate those things
 
Rich said:
You need to find a connector that already is already connected to its mate. The mate has but a single yellow wire that loops back. Remove the connector with the single yellow wire (save it in case you ever wish to remove the cdl switch) and plug the other connector into your switch.
Click to expand...

Did you remove a plug that looks similar to this to install your switch (with the yellow wire)?
CDL_connector.jpg


Also, on mine there were only 4 or 5 wires connected to the plug for the CDL (Yours looks like it has 7 or so). I'm not sure if the 95+ LC's have a little different setup or not, since the switch is a different shape.
 
Problem solved.....Crimp connectors are out and everything has been relocated and has worked in a quick test before I left the house. Will test it further this afternoon and reward the thread with a completed pic....since we all can't get enough of them. thank u for the help. I love this board. :beer:
 
The Thanx....INstalled wired and working. The Sound it makes when you engauge and disengauge is Awesome.
 
PKP80,

It is courteous to reply back with what you did to solve the problem. Several have asked if you had the correct connector. Others pointed to the taps and other wiring issues.

What was the problem?

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
PKP80,

It is courteous to reply back with what you did to solve the problem. Several have asked if you had the correct connector. Others pointed to the taps and other wiring issues.

What was the problem?

-B-
Click to expand...


But of course, where are my manners?....The connector was correct and the crimp taps were not the whole issue. 2 of the wires had been spliced at the rear (guess from when the installer was looking for lines he could use) and they been left raw and were touching each other. I wasn't able to find the problem until I took everything out of the dash, radio and cb and sat and inspected each wire. Anyway I seperated the wires and taped them up with some e-tape. I also relocated the crimp taps.

Don't know who said it earlier in the thread, but to make sure you do the work so it is done right the first time is priceless. The wires were a mess and a huge headache, all of which could have been prevented if the radio was installed right the first time. Send any Q's my way. Apologies on the bilated summary.

-Sam-
 
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Sam, you are not done yet.

The picture you posted with the crimps is absolutely not the connector for the center diff lock switch. The gray connector you posted a picture of with the wiring taps is part of the radio circuit. The connector style matches, and the wire colors are an exact match of what is in the wiring diagram for the radio circuit. It is labled connector R1A in the '97 wiring diagram. On my '97 Cruiser that particular plug is not used with my factory radio.

The correct connector for the center diff lock switch is a white connector, and only has five wires, far fewer than the connector you posted. The radio connector, and the center diff lock connector, are both physically the same, the difference is the color of the connectors and, of course, the number and colors of the wires connected.

What is going on?
 
Rich,
Everything is working fine. The right connectors are in the right place this I am positive of.
 
Sam, here is the picture you posted:
 
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