Where do I get door bushings for an lv? (1 Viewer)

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buckroseau

buckroseau

May I have another!!!
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I'll be honest, haven't even really looked at my doors. I don't even know how the bushing works in there, I just know the hinges are extremely loose and need to be rebuilt.

I've heard the words, "door bushing" thing thrown around a bit. Any pics? anyone make them? Can I make them?

Because my lv is bent up so bad and I'm looking at how much sheet metal is going to have to removed and replaced I'm accelerating a portion of the program. I'm going to gut the doors out to shells, get them blasted and in primer. And then I need them to fit to the body on the rottisseri to make sure my body and jams are squared up. So hence: I need doors with decent hinges that are going to close squarely.

Thanks, Matt
 
treerootCO said:
Ok...I'll post up a funnier link :D

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=37465

Look at post #10 ;)
Click to expand...

I'm familiar with the post :) Although Ground up hasn't done them yet and I am in need of them now. :frown: I could also fab them up in the lathe if I have to, I just don't like to work to hard sometimes.

I just thought some one might make them? I will take a look at them closer tonight. I think I know someone that owns an Ace hardware store ;)

Thanks, Matt
 
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288035&highlight=door+bushings

More info from Ground Up:

Ground Up said:
I think I have found some. They would need to be bored to 9mm. I am waiting for a qoute. If the price is in line I will order some, pick up a 9mmm drill bit and have someone enlarge the hole.

This is what I have, can you check it against yours.

A= 15mm
B= 2.5mm
C= 10mm
D= 9mm
L= 12mm

What I can get is:

A= 14.2mm
B= 2.5mm
C= 10mm
D= 8.1mm
L= 12mm
Click to expand...
Metric Screw Insulator.JPG
 
We'll have to wait for him to reply. He also found some knobs that should work for the rear window hold ups. If I remember correctly, Ground Up is Sniper on Mud but he might be Ground Up again...
 
I have been sitting back and waiting to see where Specter is going with their stuff. I have not wanted to reinvent the wheel if I did not need to.

The bushings I found that had asmaller center ID than needed. I tried some different options to bore them to no real avail. I have since found a company that I can get to manufture the correct size. I have waited to place an order for the Specter factor stated above. I can get a new thread going or the one on Pirate woken up and see what interest there is. Turn around is about 2 weeks from this company.


The door striker plates is another area that could use some attention. The problem being is that it will take a fair amount of money up front. I was concerned that not enough people showed intrest or may not step up when it came time to do so.

Just airing some quick thoughts to get the discussion going.
 
Ground Up said:
I have been sitting back and waiting to see where Specter is going with their stuff. I have not wanted to reinvent the wheel if I did not need to.

The bushings I found that had asmaller center ID than needed. I tried some different options to bore them to no real avail. I have since found a company that I can get to manufture the correct size. I have waited to place an order for the Specter factor stated above. I can get a new thread going or the one on Pirate woken up and see what interest there is. Turn around is about 2 weeks from this company.


The door striker plates is another area that could use some attention. The problem being is that it will take a fair amount of money up front. I was concerned that not enough people showed intrest or may not step up when it came time to do so.

Just airing some quick thoughts to get the discussion going.
Click to expand...

What was the material made out of on those bushings you were trying to bore?

Also, do you have some that I could buy from you un-bored, if that's where your at now?

Thanks, Matt
 
They are nylon. I would have to grab my notebook and look up what the exact spec was.

If you want some to try that would be fine. I need to get them sent back to me, as my brother was giving them a try also. I think he had less luck than I did. I have had a couple machinists say that it can't be done.

Let me know where you want to go.
 
The door strikers Rick D. had were sent to a member on the board. They are in the works but I'll wait for him to post up the details. Latest news on the hinge rubber is that the oven works and the molds are being made. I'll let him post up when ready as well.

Oh, and I am going to host the LV repro info on www.root45.com to keep track of all this info.
 
Ground Up said:
They are nylon. I would have to grab my notebook and look up what the exact spec was.

If you want some to try that would be fine. I need to get them sent back to me, as my brother was giving them a try also. I think he had less luck than I did. I have had a couple machinists say that it can't be done.

Let me know where you want to go.
Click to expand...


I'm going to talk to a local machinest friend of mine and see what the problem would be with that. Seems odd that it couldn't be bored?

What is the difference between an LV bushing and a 40 bushing? I'm sure there is, otherwise we wouldn't be having this coversation. Just curious.

Thanks, Matt
 
My understanding is that in trying to hold them that it distorts the part. The other thing is that they expand quickly from heat and therefore can be inconsistent from one to another.

I found the latter to be true on the ones I did bore out. I went thru about 20 of them to get 4 usable ones and I stress the word usable.
 
Ground Up said:
My understanding is that in trying to hold them that it distorts the part. The other thing is that they expand quickly from heat and therefore can be inconsistent from one to another.

I found the latter to be true on the ones I did bore out. I went thru about 20 of them to get 4 usable ones and I stress the word usable.
Click to expand...

Gotch ya' Did you chuck it up in a lathe when you bored it? Would it work to run the 9mm bit through by hand? Just wondering if it could be done since it's only a .9 mm difference? Slower, might not distort?

Just a thought?

Matt
 
Ground Up said:
My understanding is that in trying to hold them that it distorts the part. The other thing is that they expand quickly from heat and therefore can be inconsistent from one to another.

I found the latter to be true on the ones I did bore out. I went thru about 20 of them to get 4 usable ones and I stress the word usable.
Click to expand...

I used to machine plastic all the time including the "impossible" stuff. I'd try boring a collet for the OD of the bushing. Probably have to shave the ID out a little at a time with a razor sharp boring tool. Using a single point tool that doesn't drag on the part like a drill or reamer will keep the heat down. You could also use a mist cooling deal to blow coolant in to keep the part stable.

If the collet distorts the part too much you might have to make a fixture to clamp the part in the lathe on the rim or lip of the bushing. Bore a hole in a piece of bar stock that is a light press fit on the OD of the bushing. Then make a washer-like cap with 2-3 small cap screws that clamps the bushing flange to the fixture. Bore the ID of the bushing through the hole in the cap. A similar fixture could be used on a mill or decent drill press.

HTH,
Nick Jennings
 
zebrabeefj40 said:
I used to machine plastic all the time including the "impossible" stuff. I'd try boring a collet for the OD of the bushing. Probably have to shave the ID out a little at a time with a razor sharp boring tool. Using a single point tool that doesn't drag on the part like a drill or reamer will keep the heat down. You could also use a mist cooling deal to blow coolant in to keep the part stable.

If the collet distorts the part too much you might have to make a fixture to clamp the part in the lathe on the rim or lip of the bushing. Bore a hole in a piece of bar stock that is a light press fit on the OD of the bushing. Then make a washer-like cap with 2-3 small cap screws that clamps the bushing flange to the fixture. Bore the ID of the bushing through the hole in the cap. A similar fixture could be used on a mill or decent drill press.

HTH,
Nick Jennings
Click to expand...

I think the key is the boring a little out at a time with the razor sharp tool. I tried your fixture method and was using a brnad new high dollar drill bit. A reamer may have changed things to but after sinking a pile of time and money and getting no where I went on the hunt for a manufacturer to produce them.

I can get the ball rolling today on them if people want. I can get the things in the $1 each range.
 
Ground Up said:
I think the key is the boring a little out at a time with the razor sharp tool. I tried your fixture method and was using a brnad new high dollar drill bit. A reamer may have changed things to but after sinking a pile of time and money and getting no where I went on the hunt for a manufacturer to produce them.

I can get the ball rolling today on them if people want. I can get the things in the $1 each range.
Click to expand...

I would like to get a set, I am going to need them soon. I guess if you can't make them work, so be it, I'll try to figure something else out?

Thanks, Matt
 
I have a quick door bushing update.

The company that stocks and supplys my store with bolts and other misc. fasteners, there rep. just happend to come in a couple hours ago. I showed him a copy of the door bushing and dimesions from this thread. He gave me the direct # to one of there tech guru's. I spoke to him and faxed him a copy of the page with the dimensions of the bushings on it. He just called to say he got it and was checking with there manufacturing vendor to see if they could make it.

They are going to let me know, hopefully later today or tomorrow. There was no mention of price or quantity.....yet.

Matt
 
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