Taurus Electric Fan Wiring TBI SBC (1 Viewer)

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Isotel

Isotel

Joined
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Im wondering how you guys are wiring up the electric Taurus fans for your Cruisers with small bocks... I was thinking it would be nice to have only one speed on durring mild days, and only run both speeds when it realy needs it.. This seems like a pain in the ass to wire up.. it seems like most people are just doing both speeds to come on when the truck hits about 210 and go off at about 170.

maybe wire one speed to always be on???

Also i am running the stock 88 Chevy Alternator.. upgrade?

thanks guys.. Yes i have read every article i could find on the net and posts on the mud..
 
Taurus fan wiring

I am definetly not a relay or electrical guy :frown: I pulled the following diagrams off the pirates board sometime ago. Take you pick. I run a taurus fan on my 55 with a dual speed switch. Well, actually the switch is three position. High/off/low. Seems to work great sitting in my driveway :eek: I haven't got it out on the street yet.
 
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i already sent all this stuff to you a while back, you do not want to run both speeds at the same time.

wiring these is CAKE.
 
HI^C said:
i already sent all this stuff to you a while back, you do not want to run both speeds at the same time.

wiring these is CAKE.
Click to expand...

why?
 
well one cause its not ment to, which is the biggest reason.

you pull faster then the slow speed with the high speed on, you pull slower then the high speed with the low speed.

it like running in 4wd with different tire size front to rear.

two speed fan, not one, not three.
 
it seems like in all the diagrams i have read on the net including the ones above the low speed is on all the time and the high speed will kick on when the temp gets to a certain point.. i dont see anything in that diagram to indicate that the low speed will turn off when the high kicks on..

in the first diagram the high speed will kick on with AC or with the temp hiting a certain speed, what would turn off the low speed??
 
yuck and yuck, and somemore yuck.

both those diagrams suck ass, LOL no offense I think the bottom would work but i cannot make out enough wires! got a link to this bottom one? i have seen it before but dont remember where.

WAY too complicated, but some people like it that way. :)

First off both above diagrams use most commonly a 20A/30A NC, NO contacts, but it appears neither make any use of the NC/NO feature.

First diagram uses a 50 amp fuse, factory is 30 or 40 slowblow maxi fuse ( 40 amp is rare, 98% are on a 30 amp) some fans did not run a fuse but melted alot. 50 amp fuse would require 8 gauge wire everywhere, need for same rated relays. Factory ford wiring is 10 gauge.

Second diagram, i really cannot tell.

I am not a fan (ha ha) of cooling a cold engine, whats the point?. Nor do i like using the external thremo rad stab in probes. I do like control, what temp i want the fan to come on when it reaches temp, ability to cut off the fan when needed, and ability to override everything to turn the fan on. I also like lights to tell me my fan is on.

SIMPLE SIMPLE> :)

First diagram would work using one relay, wiring it like the top relay, and using the NC contacts 87a to run the low speed, just not sure if 20 amp contacts would hold for long, i think they would.
This would allow low speed to disengage. not my cup of tea though.
 
The fan I am using is a Lincoln Mark viii, from what I have been reading lately some of the Taurus cars are using the same two speed fan.

My low speed is set up to on/off with a toggle , and the high speed gets its signal to turn on from a temp sender in the intake. The low speed switch is fed from an ign hot source, while the high speed is bat hot.

Last year I would run the low speed while putzing around if it got hot enough the high speed would kick in- whether the fan low speed was on or not. The fan is still working, fwiw, other wiring not mentioned are the three relays used, two for the high speed & 1 for the low speed.
 
Like I said in the above post. The diagrams came from the Pirates Board. My tuarus fan is wired to a toggle switch simalar to the second diagram. I have not wired the off position to switch on a warning light, but that is something I want to do. Your right. the 87a terminal should be used.
 
OUCH, well do not burn up that fan

M8 fan motor is suppose to be the same/similiar then the taurus fan, but do not make anything
else even close to that fan. M8 fans are unique and almost to thier own.

I never said it would not run, but it is not designed nor suppose to run both speeds at the same time. PERIOD. for that matter no electronic motor with two different windings not equal are never to be entergized at the same time.

? 3 relays for two speeds? so you mounted like a fog light to tell you when the high speed is on? again simple, no one will wire one of these fans the same way, unless they see some of these junk wiring diagrams.

anyone see the ford starter solienods (huge writeup somewhere) used for the fan relays< OMFG LMAO there was a mad rush i bet there was a backorder, then guess what they were not ment for continous use HA HA.

BTW how did you fit a M8 fan? they are so deep.
 
The 87a terminal is not rated to carry the same amount of current as the 87 terminal, fwiw.
Also, since I wired my 'high' speed fan relays to be battery hot, there was no simple way to keep the 87a from providing power to the low speed setting with the engine shut off. Remember I chose to have the 'high' speed relays turn on if the temps sender kicked in- this happens often at engine shut down because of heat soak that occurs when the water stops circulating in the motor.

The fan that I have has 1-10ga grnd, 1-12ga hot, and 1-10ga hot.
The 'low' speed (12ga), pulls enough amps at start up to pop a 25 amp mini-fuse (experiment that I tried), again fwiw.

Initially I used a solenoid for power dutys for the high speed, but have switched that out for relays, simpler to source replacement if a failure should occur.

I chose to wire two relays to share the power demands of the high speed setting, in this way again I escape the trap of a 'specialty' part. So the water temps sender wire is spliced into the 86 terminals of both relays, and so are the load wires from the 87 terminal of the relay. All relays use fuseable link wires for circuit protection.

I have not been able to locate a schematic of the fan motor and do not know its exact inards, but the fan works as wired and continues to do so.

I have attached a couple pics that I took during the wire redo, the first one is a generic relay block, and the second is a dual relay kit from Centec (high speed relays). All relays are 40/50 amps rated and interchangeable.
centec relay dr1.JPG
relay block.JPG
 
again common 20a/30a nc, no as stated above, yes there is different amp rated ones available but not as common.

Again your setup, cool a cold engine, cool a engine that is not running ( no charging, no water movement, etc...) , pull a 20-30 amp low speed from a already full fuse box ( i gathered), run both low and high at the same time, running fuse links!!! Yikes. Again not for me, but you are placing a good load on your electrical system and battery, without running its suckin the battery dry.

Yes these are not ment to run on low load fuses, I am playing with regular maxi fuses at the moment (doubtful they will work), but factory are slow blow (maxi fuses) which are not special and are found on most stock applications.

Relays are made to handle most startup loads within reason of the rated amperage. 20amp contacts on the nc might hold up to the continous load (rated for) but I know 30amp will for sure.

IMO this stuff is too easy, to purchase a kit to do it. some of these products are just generic crap, others just high $$$ to worth it ratio. BOSCH and thats it, IMO.

How hot do those fuse links get right now???

IF you have a good source for the M8 fan for cheap, BUY THEM< BUY THEM< fan is just over $360 from the stealer. you might want an extra anyways.
 
I have a Spal fan that I purchased before I learned of the Ford air mover- it is to be installed as a human cooler and a trail spare as needed. Note the spal will be undervolted for this duty.

The Thermostat controls the temp of the motor, however since the low speed is on/off with the toggle switch, it can be turned off for quicker warm up times in the winter.

To clarify, the temp sender is the on/off for the high speed fan setting and I have added a pic of the factory warning sticker which is on the fan shroud-there is some battery drain while not being charged, but my battery is somewhat better than the one that came in the car from which I nabbed the fan.

This link has information on fusible links and their uses;
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml
fan electric map.JPG
fan warning.JPG
 
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LOL better job then i can do with a diagram.

I do them this way

three spst switches ( i like lighted), one single wire adjustable switch ( or temp for your app), two relays 30amp, i reuse the factory fuse holder and fuse.

i use the temp to ground the relays, ing switched power to which ever switch is on is what speed i want, the third switch is ground override, with the switched ground inside i light the switches. everything is self contained near the battery, with three wires into the cab.

switches could be a 3 position lighted (which would be sweet), or seperate light from the switch would work also. and a single pole ground override.

I have done 5 or 6 wired like this already, so far no problems.

i cannot tell you how much $$$ i actually put into these setups, :)

temp set at 180, cycles by it self, not on while warming up, turns off when ing is off, light tells me its on, run slow speed unless its 90 degrees or more outside, then high speed is needed.

Again cake
 
Mine is run very similar, less the low speed circuit. If I need it, I can turn it on manually. I also run a switch on the ign side of the relays so I can manually turn the fan off. i don't want it kicking on in the water, (not that the engine should be hot in the water, but the temp sensor doesn't always run the same temp as the radiator)

I kinda like the low speed auto option. I might try that.

Running a low speed fan when the truck is not up to operating temp is kinda silly IMHO. If the temp is under the opening temp of the t-stat, then running a fan is useless. If the truck is not hot, it does not need to be on.

I don't see how the truck will heat up in the winter significantly faster with the fan off. The radiator is not doing much until the t-stat opens.
 
Let me fill in what is missing from the picture.
1)My rigs primary environment is the desert, deep water crossings are things I read about.
2) Currently the radiator fan is the only means I have to positively remove engine compartment heat.
3)The motor is a 10-1 normally aspirated 406 small block w/alum heads- there is no shortage of radiated heat.

While the engine likes 200+ degrees, other items in the engine compartment do not- not to mention the heat conducted through the firewall/floorboards into the passenger compartment.

My thermostat (t-stat), always has a small amount of water flowing through it- 3 drilled holes (facilitates turbulance) this is to enhance heat pickup into the radiator fluid- where it will be removed.

The motor will indeed heat up faster without the fan running, but we will just have to agree to disagree on this point.

Wiring methods can be as simple or complicated as the installer wishes, infact in my diagram the toggle switch and indicator light could be deleted. .

The amount of drain on the battery is nothing to write home about as the high speed fan only runs long enough for the temp sender to drop below its opening point.
Heat will move toward the point of less heat-in my case hot radiator fluid will boil toward cooler fluid-which happens to be in the radiator.
This movement is nothing compared to movement caused by a running water pump, but i cannot afford a emp electric pump. But again engine compartment temp reduction is the main benifit, whether one thinks this is important or not is of course each owners choice.

Oh, I forgot the fan is two speed, because they were intended for vehicles that had AC- I just chose to put it to another use.
 
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OK. Well you have a fairly modified and unique vehicle. In the case of a partially bypassed t-stat, it will heat up faster with the fan off. Also running a 10-1 big bore motor in the desert would make me want to run the fan all the time too.

Now it makes a bit more sense. I can also see why you went for the M8 fan over the taurus fan.
 
funny

1) sandy
2) this is pretty normal in most cases
3) same same, iron heads, and an auto

Stock radiator, no t stat (caused me nothing but problems) perfect now. make sure you have the largest hoses on bottom and top. 1 3/4 and 1 5/8 bottom top i believe is what they are.

i got HUMIDITY like mad! no a/c and the top and doors have never ever been off. i would trade ten 100+ degree day for any day 95 degree 90% humidity or close.

I still would like to know how you fit a M8 fan, depth and its larger then the factory radiator! tauras fan fits about as perfect as you could want.

see 210 at the most cause the adjust temp sw can be a bit slow, but soon as high speed kicks in it just sucks that temp down quick!
 
The is only a inch or so from water pump pulley nose to fan motor;

I did get involved in another thread which covers much of this same ground and a few more pics within it. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=35767

For anyone reading this thread considering motor swapping- give some serious thought to a Ford 300 straight six, again fwiw.
motor fan clearance.JPG
 
i am about the same on long pump, tauras fan.

NO comment on the F*** 300 other then WHY and where did that come from???
 
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