New Drum Brks vs. frt/rear Disc Conversion? (1 Viewer)

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cabron

cabron

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Been reading alot of the posts on this subject and wondered the performance of new pads front and rear, adjusted properly vs. converting one of the two axles to disc brake? How is the braking if overhauled with the factory setup vs. doing a conversion? Does the factory setup brake well when properly maintained ie new parts, adj. properly? Would an overhauled factory setup make me just as happy as a one axle disc conversion? Thanks in advance....
 
I am one of the few drum brake fans. If you have a 1972 to 1975 cruiser,
the conversion is fairly simple and you will find a ton of information out
there on how to do it. Do a search and look at the tech section of MUD.

If you have the earlier single circuit master cylinder, the conversion is
significantly more complex.

Look here to see how to adjust drum brakes properly. I do it this way
and have no problems stopping: http://www.rzeppa.org/tech/brakes.htm
 
do you like adjusting breaks all the time? do you like one side pulling more than the other? do you like brake fade on long hills. lack of brakes when they are wet?
I wouldnt spend a dime rebuilding the stock breaks unless you got the parts for free or you have a vested interest in keeping the rig completely stock.
I did the mini truck disks upfront many moons ago and it may have been my most favorite mod.

-Dustin
 
Adjustment of the drums is a PITA, but the stopping power of properly adjusted 4Xdrums is pretty awesome.

That said, I gave in and converted my '75 to discs in front. Coincidentally, I no longer involuntarily change lanes when stopping.
 
discs all the way around...stopping feels SO much better....so much more controlled...feels like my FZJ80...without all that other frilly stuff ;)
 
my 45LV has stock and all new drum brakes, it will throw you thru the window it stops that good.

but the cost for all new drum brake parts is prolly about as much to swap to disc.
 
Stock drums with all working parts adjusted right will REALLY stop, and straight.

That is a big if though.

i inherited all new drum parts wiht my cruiser, so I had some interest in making them work. Someone who really knows how to adjust them can do it quickly and well. I got David to do it once, they stopped VERY well, as well as my 4whl disc 80.

Now they are anything but reliable. Almost got into a wreck last weekend because of them.

I have disc parts for the front, and all new rear drum parts I got for free. (Thanks Kevin!).

IMO- Learn how to adjust them and do that for now, but plan for a disc swap.
 
Most everything has been said already, and that mirrors my experience on my '75. ie, keep the drums and keep them properly adjusted. They will work just fine, except that I had to adjust mine more often than oil changes.

But when one of those cylinders springs a leak, instead of replacing the 4 drum wheel cylinders costing ~$150+....Go ahead and spend another $200 and do the conversion to discs. It was the best couple hundred bucks I have spent on my cruiser.

Buy post-'79 Land Cruiser or minitruck knuckles+calipers+rotors+birfs+Aisin hubs. Had I researched a little more, I would have done that instead of what I did: I bought a complete disc axle that turned out to be pre-'79 with the smaller-bell/longer-shank birfs, different knuckle and Selectro fine-spline hubs.

(I hope I got my years/facts right!!!)
Tim
 
I, too am a drum brakes guy. There are two issues with them that I see.

One is stopping distance is increased when drums are wet.

Two, if you do them right once, you may have to readjust them once or twice a year, rather than never.
 
Swapping to front disc's on any of my personal or customer's Cruisers is my first recomendation. No brainer, too many advantages, do it with reman calipers and you have trouble free maintenence free brakes for 100k, replacemant of front pads takes 20 minutes.....larger birfs....
On a trail rig I consider rear disc as mandatory, I have seen one 12k FJ60 totalled because of a broke rear axle....it ran out, the brake system then failed since there was no drum to contain the pressure, it barrel rolled down an embankment...with RDB, when you break an axle the rotor keeps it in place and you can still drive the truck to camp, trailer or a safe spot to repair.....I have yet to see spot where a rear axle broke that is "safe" to fix it.........
 
Properly adjusted and maintained drum brakes feel better and I think stop better. But, then you have to properly adjust them and maintain them, which is not there with discs. And if you keep drums, then you get you nasty course spliners with them with those old warn hubs. Aisin hubs are soo much nicer. I vote, fred flinstone is out, george jetson is in, go discs.
 
discs are great for a daily driver or common driver...that said, i'm keeping my 45 all drums because it will be a part timer and i kinda like drums. they are great as long as they are adjusted and aren't in situations where you have to worry about them getting hot (extended use). if you plan on a lot of off road, i'd say go discs because descents can kill your drums and that's when you need brakes the most.
 
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