ok guys, i'm a 60 guy looking at an 80. the po's reputation leads me to believe that everything will be near-spotless in the truck, but what kind of things should i look for?
thanks!
-m
thanks!
-m
looking at buying an 80, what should i look for. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter reece
- Start date
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This is a good start:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm
Before I bought mine, I bought a owner's manual off Ebay for about $10. It gave me some idea of how things worked. Anything to familiarize yourself with the vehicle will help.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm
Before I bought mine, I bought a owner's manual off Ebay for about $10. It gave me some idea of how things worked. Anything to familiarize yourself with the vehicle will help.
reece said:
As you can tell by Slee's list, the things to look out for are endless. To me it depends on the miles. A "near-spotless" truck should come with some maintenance records or at least a dealer contact so you can get records from them. That will tell a lot. I'd look for leaks, signs of paintwork, condition of belts and hoses (as a quick indicator of routine maintenance being performed). If its high-mileage, it might even be worth having a compression check done if you are counting on it for another 100k.
Yeah but then again how much you willing to spend? Dont expect too much if you willing to spend less.
06Apr2005 (UTC +8)
Don't forget to check out the most basic of stuff when buying used:
http://www.toyota.com/html/tcuv/inspection.html
Don't forget to check out the most basic of stuff when buying used:
http://www.toyota.com/html/tcuv/inspection.html
the search button?
I read some of these answers, and here is the most straightfoward one. If you are looking for an all around great 80 and you can spend up to around 8-12k dollars then here is what you can look for. Look for the FZJ80 first of all. This is a 93-97 model. The FJ80 has the less powerful engine and no differential locker option. Then of course you need to look for what you like. Leather or cloth, colors, and stuff like that. I suggest that if this is a daily driver you go with one under 120k miles. These things will run great for a long time as people will vouch but common sense is that the lower the miles the less work you will probably have to do. Do a carfax report too to get all the background checked. When you take it for a test drive you can also see if it rides ok and make sure to look out for clicking in the front which could be the the birfields and then you have to do a knuckle rebuild which I hear is a pain in the ass or it costs a lot of money for someone to do it. Also look for rust spots. You wouldn't think a 90's landcruiser would have rust but they do. Depending on where they are from. But you should be ok being in Nevada unless you buy elsewhere. So thats about it for now. Good luck and you will love the 80 series cruiser. It gives you the comfortablity of a luxury car and the wheeling capablity of any other cruiser in my opinion. 80s rule!
ace10
Another one bites the dust!
stuck in GA said:
what makes your post the most straightforward? i think that a reference (link) to a complete, well thought-out, guide, written by someone who has more than a couple of months of driving under their belt, trumps any OPINION that you could prossibly dream up.
stuck in GA said:
how would a npropspective buyer know how an 80 is supposed to ride?
stuck in GA said:
Where on the body? It's a big vehicle. How about some pointers...
stuck in GA said:
leather seats and CD player do not a luxury car make. it rides like a eight to 12 year old TRUCK. nothing luxurious about it.
i cannot believe the amount of sheer ass-talking that comes forth in your posts, day after day, week after week. have you really had nearly 400 things to say in only three months. you blindly reference others, which is INCREDIBLY RUDE. you alternately portray yourself as an expert on all things registered for travel on public roads, then you humbly insist that you know next to nothing compared to others. you don't know JACK! I don't know JACK! there are a few people in here that do.
more than my $0.02, but i've bitten my tongue for months now.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
gee...I didn't think Sparky's post wasn't too bad. A better effort that previous posts actually. Still vague and rather rambling...but it seems as though he tried to put together a fairly coherent statement.
But taking into consideration that you're likely venting a few months of frustration...I really can't blame you for the flames. I have felt your pain
As for the thread topic, assuming you're going to eventually wheel this rig, try to find one with DIFF LOCKS (front and rear locking differentials). There was a thread posted recently with suggestions on how to ask the current owner if this option exists. Check under the rig...any leaks? Any rust? How do the knuckles look -- any seepage?
What color is the coolant? Is it murky? I would expect Toyota Red coolant or "Prestone Green", but pretty much anything could be in there...so this doesn't really help much.
One area that seems to be prone to rust is on the rear hatch window. See if there are any signs along the bottom portion of the window gasket. Some have found rust under the factory roof rack feet, but that's not usually something you can easily check when looking over a vehicle for purchase.
As Sparky mentioned, listen for any "odd" sounds while driving -- it might help to drive slowly alongside a curb or close to a wall -- I've found that sound bounces off curbs/walls making it easier to hear them. Check for noises while driving in circles, left and right. Clicking might be an indicator of a problem.
Look at the tires -- does the wear look normal?
Does the owner have service records?
Then the goofy little things...Does the antenna work? Does the window washer squirter work...both front and back? What's the condition of the leather? How's the paint look? How does the stereo sound? Does the cruise control work?
The other stuff too look for is pretty basic...stuff you'd do with any purchase -- have it checked by your mechanic, etc.
But taking into consideration that you're likely venting a few months of frustration...I really can't blame you for the flames. I have felt your pain
As for the thread topic, assuming you're going to eventually wheel this rig, try to find one with DIFF LOCKS (front and rear locking differentials). There was a thread posted recently with suggestions on how to ask the current owner if this option exists. Check under the rig...any leaks? Any rust? How do the knuckles look -- any seepage?
What color is the coolant? Is it murky? I would expect Toyota Red coolant or "Prestone Green", but pretty much anything could be in there...so this doesn't really help much.
One area that seems to be prone to rust is on the rear hatch window. See if there are any signs along the bottom portion of the window gasket. Some have found rust under the factory roof rack feet, but that's not usually something you can easily check when looking over a vehicle for purchase.
As Sparky mentioned, listen for any "odd" sounds while driving -- it might help to drive slowly alongside a curb or close to a wall -- I've found that sound bounces off curbs/walls making it easier to hear them. Check for noises while driving in circles, left and right. Clicking might be an indicator of a problem.
Look at the tires -- does the wear look normal?
Does the owner have service records?
Then the goofy little things...Does the antenna work? Does the window washer squirter work...both front and back? What's the condition of the leather? How's the paint look? How does the stereo sound? Does the cruise control work?
The other stuff too look for is pretty basic...stuff you'd do with any purchase -- have it checked by your mechanic, etc.
I thought stuck's post was one of his best yet!!! Of course, I released all frustrations a while back....
He is getting better (Don't let that go to your head Sparky), but I see your point. Better to leave this to some who have driven and wheeled a lot more than you have, and can provide perspective from more personal experience....
So now that you've vented, don't ya feel better? Hijack over.
Use the search function, read about 20 hours worth of posts. You will get a good idea on what to look for and learn a lot. Put in the work, and you will be rewarded and can avoid a mistake.
He is getting better (Don't let that go to your head Sparky), but I see your point. Better to leave this to some who have driven and wheeled a lot more than you have, and can provide perspective from more personal experience....
So now that you've vented, don't ya feel better? Hijack over.
Use the search function, read about 20 hours worth of posts. You will get a good idea on what to look for and learn a lot. Put in the work, and you will be rewarded and can avoid a mistake.
stuck in GA said:
Go home and tear both YOUR knuckles apart, rebuild them and then come back and tell us what you know, instead of what you hear or read. I've had 6 of these trucks (and four other Cruisers), all heavily modified, for a total of some 600,000 miles in 9 years and never paid one dollar for someone else to work on them. I get tired of "experts" offering advice here when they haven't done it themselves.
My .02c worth.
You can still be knowledgeable and not do the work yourself. If I hear it from Urban Landcruisers that is a pain than I am going to say it. If you work on your own truck thats cool. To each his own big guy.
stuck in GA said:
So if I tell you that it won't hurt to bang your head on a concrete wall and I am a mason, do you go tell everyone else that concrete walls are soft????????
WOW
(slowly shaking head in utter amazement)
No because Urban Landcruiser knows their s***. And I don't think that mason does. shaking his head.
shaking his head.
I have no Idea what stucky has said (other than the quotes you guys continue to post) 'cuz I have him on my ignore list, a very short one I might add.
I suggest all the rest of you do the same.....
I suggest all the rest of you do the same.....
cruiserdan said:I have no Idea what stucky has said (other than the quotes you guys continue to post) 'cuz I have him on my ignore list, a very short one I might add.I suggest all the rest of you do the same.....
Among other things he suggested that one not purchase an 80 for a daily driver if it has over 120k miles on it. As such I am trying to get in touch with the guy I bought mine from to see if I can get a refund.
Anyway....back to Reece's thread starter>>> when buying a used 80, read through the above-mentioned FAQs and have a mechanic look at it if you're not actively involved in the mechanical aspects of your own rigs.
Reece-
Doing the front axle service while time consuming isn't as big as a pain in the ass as some people on this board. I owned my truck about 5 months when I tore mine down. Took me about 10 hours for both sides but when you break it down step by step and have done your homework and read everything you can find it was a very straight forward process. This is because of the people that have taken the time to record step by step instructions for us. Some are more grateful than others and some comprehend the honor that we have to contribute to such a great encyclopedia of information for such a well engineered and manufactured truck.
Oh...and a 120K...I bought mine with 130K now at 145K I am no worried the least bit. Go figure!
Doing the front axle service while time consuming isn't as big as a pain in the ass as some people on this board.
I owned my truck about 5 months when I tore mine down. Took me about 10 hours for both sides but when you break it down step by step and have done your homework and read everything you can find it was a very straight forward process. This is because of the people that have taken the time to record step by step instructions for us. Some are more grateful than others and some comprehend the honor that we have to contribute to such a great encyclopedia of information for such a well engineered and manufactured truck.Oh...and a 120K...I bought mine with 130K now at 145K I am no worried the least bit. Go figure!
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
Same thing as when buying any used vehicle. Pay attention to/for service records. Checkout the seriveces on line that allow for a VIN check. Etc etc etc.
Be more wary of a dealership than a private seller.
TB
Be more wary of a dealership than a private seller.
TB
HZJ60 Guy said:
Well, being that I work for a large, customer-oriented dealership group, I feel that comment needs clarification. In today's business climate, franchised dealers have too much at stake to knowingly sell a "turd" all for a few hundred bucks in profit. Used car dealers on the other hand have less at stake and are willing to take greater risks. No matter where you buy it, do your homework.
07Apr2005 (UTC +8)
In addition to the SleeOffRoad Newbie Guide, the Toyota 160-point Inspection List, the CarFax report, and the IH8Mud FAQ, I'll add this extra precaution too for 'Cruisers outside N. America:
1. Inspect window gaskets for any signs of previously forced entry. Same goes for the keyhole. If you get suspicious (paranoia helps keep you healthy), insist on a police clearance report before buying.
2. Inspect the odometer for any signs of scratches. Unlike UZJ-100's, lesser --errr, I mean older -- 'Cruisers are notoriously easier to rollback.
I'm currently working on two checklists right now, very similar to the Toyota Special Operating Conditions 5,000mi checklists I did for the FZJ-80 and UZJ-100 that I did a coupla years ago. One is a used-Cruiser (FJ-80, FZJ-80, UZJ-100) inspection, and then a Post-Sale Maintenance list.
In addition to the SleeOffRoad Newbie Guide, the Toyota 160-point Inspection List, the CarFax report, and the IH8Mud FAQ, I'll add this extra precaution too for 'Cruisers outside N. America:
1. Inspect window gaskets for any signs of previously forced entry. Same goes for the keyhole. If you get suspicious (paranoia helps keep you healthy), insist on a police clearance report before buying.
2. Inspect the odometer for any signs of scratches. Unlike UZJ-100's, lesser --errr, I mean older -- 'Cruisers are notoriously easier to rollback.
I'm currently working on two checklists right now, very similar to the Toyota Special Operating Conditions 5,000mi checklists I did for the FZJ-80 and UZJ-100 that I did a coupla years ago. One is a used-Cruiser (FJ-80, FZJ-80, UZJ-100) inspection, and then a Post-Sale Maintenance list.
