Aftermarket remote entry install advice (1 Viewer)

Just got a remote entry kit in the mail for the 97 that someone here recommended and had easy install instructions for. It was back ordered, so I ordered it so long ago that I cannot remember who recommended it as an easy install, and mentioned where a board member had posted the easy install.

Searching was fruitless.

The instructions are generic and will be hours of wire identifying and such, so I'm hoping someone remembers recommending it. It's an Omega RC11 and was only $60 or so with shipping.

Thanks!!

DougM

I believe the difficulty of the install will be the same across the board, unless it comes with some kind of specific Toyota jumper harnesses, which is possible but not likely.

I have alarm/keyless specific wire documents if you need it, let me know. I am also a 1st class certified MECP installer, so have done thousands of keyless entries/alarms. Glad to help if I can.

Thanks, Scott! I'm electrically challenged and was going to install this with advice like "Connect the lock activator output to the yellow wire with grey stripe under the driver's seat...." if I can reconnect with the person who bought/installed and liked this one.

All I want to do is lock/unlock.

Since the 97 had a factory/port option of a remote I'm hoping these wires are already run to the location the factory unit plugged into. What do you think, or what do you suggest as a way to proceed?

DougM

I belive there might be a need for a diode for the door actuator but not 100% sure!

Hmm.. well I am not really sure about the factory system, I would doubt you would find all the wires you need in one location/harness usually not that easy.

Just keyless entry is not all that bad on most vehicles, on an 80 there are a few tricky items.

I will just tell you what's involved, and you can be the judge on if you would like to attempt it.

You will need 12v constant, ground, ign (if you want to utilize some kind of auto lock unlock feature)
and then the lock wires (3 in this case)

12v constant- Most of my books show that a constant 12v source is not available at the column, I think this really means, do not access it there because circuit is already maxed out. I highly recommend a separate wire to the battery, with a fuse within a foot of the battery. Safe, easy, no chance of tapping incorrect wires.

ground- good solid metal point, paint removed, good ring connector and lock washer, screwed down securely

ign. - can be accessed at ign. sw area-check with test light-black/red wire on a 96

locks-here's where it gets tricky. wires located in drivers kick panel/8 pin plug.

lock- green/red
unlock-blue/yellow
**toyota child safety lock wire** blue/orange

this will be hard to explain, but a relay is needed with the unlock output of keyless being split to unlock and child safety wires, with diodes inline as ALIA mentioned.

I could fax/mail you diagrams and wire colors if you would like. Otherwise I would think most Car Audio shops would do this for $125-$200 on average. Verify their skill levels and warranty, if they say they have worked on tons of landrovers while staring at your LandCruiser , walk away......

hope that helps...

Hey......... how many posts until I am not a rookie? Isn't a silver star good for a couple of freebie posts.........

With a silver star you can change your title to whatever you'd like. Go checkout your User CP...

oh... thanks.

If there's any chance you'll be down in Salt Lake in the near future, one of the guys in our club does high-end installs and has done 4 or 5 keyless entries on 80's in the club. Mine was the first and I remember there were some bugs to work out (relays and such).