Q's about line-x, rhino lining... (1 Viewer)

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DomSmith

DomSmith

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For those that have lined their 40's w/ LineX or Rhino lining... a few q's.
1. Did you have the tranny hump lined seperately so it could still be removed?
2. Did you coat the rear 1/2 doors or tailgate?
3. What about the areas where you need a ground (ie: rear side lights)?
4. How far up the firewall did you go?
5. What would you do differently?
6. What did you do right that was imperative?
Thx.
Dom
 
Durabak

Havent gotten around to doin my 40 yet but just got done helping a friend with his j**p. My plan is to use durabak on the rear portion of the tub e.g. from the rear seat mounts back. Then when painting the exterior with the por 15 hardnose paints do the font foor and under the tank and up the firewall as far as i can.
The durabak in my opinion is better than Hurk, the particals are smaller and the mix is a little stiffer and easy to apply. The idea is to keep the floor slick in the front for easy cleaning and put down some heavy rubber mats.
Ive got ambi doors on mine and plan on running the lining up to match the tub, just up to the lip where the hard top bolts on.
 
1 Tranny hump separate
2 no
3 keep the goo out of the ground holes with a screw
4 up to where it changes angle, behind the door post up to the side vents
5 keep all the holes you need filled with bolts and screws
6 used POR 15 before I coated with Hurculiner using a roller and brush...came out excellent!

I taped off areas I wanted to keep the stuff off of with 2" wide blue masking tape

my painting project click the various pages to get to the liner photos
 
1. Seperate the hump!!! (Actually you should remove everything including the gas tank). And make sure you tell the sprayer which holes you want to keep. They should thread bolts back in.)

2. Yes the doors where coated. I had some rust holes in the bottom of the doors. Those are covered with line-x.

3. Ground shouldn't be an issue as long as you save the threaded holes.

4. Above the pedals up over the kick vents. Up to the lip of the tub. I had buttons for the soft top so couldn't go all the way over the lip.

5. I would have had my seat brackets sprayed also. I would have had more holes covered up and payed more attention to what threaded holes I wanted to save.

6. I took the tranny hump off and I had it sprayed seperate along with the gas tank cover and other covers. I also removed the heater and cleaned it up and painted it while the spraying was accomplished.

7. GOOD LUCK!
 
I coated the floor only...
I used a 2 part epoxy urethane (I used a SEM product), applied with a Schutz gun (or undercoating gun). Less expensive than Linex, more expensive than the "roll on" type.
Adhesion has been outstanding (you don't get this characteristic with the roll on types),
I put on 3 coats (film build is to any thickness),
The coating doesn't have the rubber bits, but it is elastic.
The coating is not as hard as LineX would be.
Your questions...
1. Remove the hump (good time to clean the underside as well and coat it for noise dampening.
2. Didn't coat the doors.
3. You don't have any grounds on the floor, but keep holes clean with tape or screws.
4. Nothing, it came out great (but I spent a lot of time in prep).
5. Prep. Removed all rust, properly primed with a professional 2 part epoXy primer (made for urethane coatings), not POR.
 
Just make sure not to linex over the rails, otherwise it will set the top too high that you can't properly allign the doors.
 
I Herculined mine last summer. Holding well so far, but I don't drive it much. It peeled around the lips of the tub where the doors meet, but I think I missed that area prepping it. Everywhere else is holding well.

The only new info I could add, that has not yet been mentioned is a cheap method to plug holes....golf tees. I read it somewhere and it was a very effective a cheap solution (I sprayed mine).
 
Last edited:
mtweller said:
I Herculined mine last summer. Holding well so far, but I don't drive it much. It peeled around the lips of the tub where the doors meet, but I think I missed that area prepping it. Everywhere else is holding well.

The only new info I could add, that has not yet been mentioned is a cheap method to plug holes....golf tees. I read it somewhere and it was a very effective a cheap solution (I sprayed mine).
Click to expand...

x2 on this, just like mine
 
if you take 2" masking tape and roll it into a "cone" it can be used to fill holes before spraying and comes out easily. That way it can (A.) fill almost any size bolt hole, and (B.) not gum up the threads on the bolt itself. I spray liners and thats my little secret to consistently saving bolt holes. ( don't tell anyone, ok?) ;)

Definitely take out the hump first and if at all possible, wait 24-48 hours after spraying to put it back in. Now I know Line-X "cures" in 5-8 seconds, but without FULLY curing for at least a day, it can be a bear to separate if pressed together too soon. Tim
P.S. RHINO SUCKS!!!! :grinpimp:
 
For those that have lined their 40's w/ LineX or Rhino lining... a few q's.
1. Did you have the tranny hump lined seperately so it could still be removed?
2. Did you coat the rear 1/2 doors or tailgate?
3. What about the areas where you need a ground (ie: rear side lights)?
4. How far up the firewall did you go?
5. What would you do differently?
6. What did you do right that was imperative?

Make sure they (or you) put in dummy bolts/plugs (or real bolts) in the threaded holes you want to keep in uses prior to spraying. They didn't put plugs in my hard top tub holes and I had to scrap out the line-x with a razor.

1. Tranny hump separate for sure!

2. Rear half doors where coated on the inside.

3. use plugs to fill the holes

4. Right above where the steering column goes through the firewall. Same hight on passenger side. I removed my heater.

5. Really make sure all the holes are pluged that I want to keep in use.

7. Do a good job removing paint. I used a sand blaster.

Also removed both seats and brackets. Roll cage. Fuel tank and cover. All brackets (seat belts etc.)

If my tub was really nice. Not dented and unmolested I probably would not have had it lined. But since it's in such bad shape I don't feel bad at all. It is very tuff. Looks cool. A little more sound proofing. Easy to clean. And line-x has a lifetime warranty I believe.
 
If the seats, hardtop, and heater are removed, and taping the gas-brake-clutch-fusebox area, is it safe to rhino line? Or is the spraying process messy?
 
Prep work is the key!! I used herc.liner and thought that it worked great! Used foam ear plugs for bolt holes. Don't get it on your flesh and let it dry acetone , mineral sprits, laq none remove it once cured. Gloves and long sleves a plus.

No on the tran. hump
Floor and under rear fenders to help protect glass work.
 
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