Thanks!
Second battery grounding (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 97 FZJ80
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I second Rich's recommendation. I've used that very spot for my PS battery for some time. Works well.
Cheers, R -
Cheers, R -
Thanks 
Raven - How's that wiring up of the second battery going?
I'm going to go dig up your wiring diagram that switches off of the alternator cct. I'm getting ready to finally get this project completed
I'm going to go dig up your wiring diagram that switches off of the alternator cct. I'm getting ready to finally get this project completed
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Should be a go for this weekend, have almost all the parts, still waiting for the solenoid it was suppose to be here last weekend. UPS says it will be here Friday. I ordered it last Monday did not ship until this Monday (thanks WMJ marine ) going to pick up a bolt for that ground tomorrow before work at fasten-all, may also get a capacitor havent decided yet.
Also may get a capacitor, need to talk to Blues sea again to get the value, that solenoid uses pulsed DC to hold closed via a PWM circuit that is why it draws very little power, but it can generate electrical noise, he said they had had problems with noise in radios under certain conditions a cap across the control leads stopped it.
New years weekend got the rear heat switch modified and wired in (the 4 wires for backlight and the led's) have the 3 switching wires run into the engine bay but not hooked up. I may go back and hook into the alternator good in the back of the cluster, might be cleaner that way instead of trying to tap into the fuse box. I should have looked into if it was possible wile I had it out to replace bulbs.
) going to pick up a bolt for that ground tomorrow before work at fasten-all, may also get a capacitor havent decided yet.Also may get a capacitor, need to talk to Blues sea again to get the value, that solenoid uses pulsed DC to hold closed via a PWM circuit that is why it draws very little power, but it can generate electrical noise, he said they had had problems with noise in radios under certain conditions a cap across the control leads stopped it.
New years weekend got the rear heat switch modified and wired in (the 4 wires for backlight and the led's) have the 3 switching wires run into the engine bay but not hooked up. I may go back and hook into the alternator good in the back of the cluster, might be cleaner that way instead of trying to tap into the fuse box. I should have looked into if it was possible wile I had it out to replace bulbs.
Riley said:
Post a link. I'm still a few weeks behind you guys.
-B-
Beowulf said:
Linking these threads together [it's the old frustrating Mobi thread in Outfitting]
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=21649&page=3&pp=30
Near the bottom is Raven's drawing using a rear heater switch. I'm not sure where the Alternator "good" signal comes from. I'm gonna bump that thread and ask Raven to post more specifics on that signal.
Considering it's taken me about a year to get the other battery tray installed, the wiring miht take until CM06 to get completed.
The Alt-Good signal comes from the fuse box behind the stock battery. George's web site has excellent pictures on tapping this signal.
-B-
-B-
So I gather you guys are all installing a second battery? What banana job is it?? I've got so much extra crap running to my stock battery and another one to add this weekend that I'm almost ready to consider adding the second battery.
I'm about to start this project. How long a battery cable did you guys use to connect the DS battery to the PS?
Brent,
So far, I think it's a 4 banana job just figuring out what I want to do and what components I want in the system. I am still planning and acquiring parts. As I said in another thread, my project involves the 2nd battery, 2 aux fuse panels, an AC/DC inverter, multiple 12v outlets, and a 3/4hp air compressor (60 amp). Lots of relays, switches, solenoids, wire, some new plumbing, etc.
Victor,
I bought a 17' chunk of 1/0 welding cable. It will be cut to length, lugs crimped on each end, shrink wrapped, and used for all of the "heavy wiring" requirements. I also bought a 25' chunk of 2/0 welding cable that probably won't be used.
-B-
So far, I think it's a 4 banana job just figuring out what I want to do and what components I want in the system. I am still planning and acquiring parts. As I said in another thread, my project involves the 2nd battery, 2 aux fuse panels, an AC/DC inverter, multiple 12v outlets, and a 3/4hp air compressor (60 amp). Lots of relays, switches, solenoids, wire, some new plumbing, etc.
Victor,
I bought a 17' chunk of 1/0 welding cable. It will be cut to length, lugs crimped on each end, shrink wrapped, and used for all of the "heavy wiring" requirements. I also bought a 25' chunk of 2/0 welding cable that probably won't be used.
-B-
Brent, having a bunch of stuff cobbled of my battery is one of the things I am hoping to avoid, second battery and aux (or 2) fuse box(s) will make future electrical work much cleaner. That and my POS PO installed battery lead me to dual batteries.
The work should be strait foreword as long as you have everything you need before hand. like -B- said hardest part is figuring out what you want to do, there are a lot of ways to go about it. Rich has posted a fairly complete list of requirement/features of a dual battery system, looking at those and deciding which are important to you is a good place to start.
Victor, I budgeted 6’ of cable for the 4 main battery cables, and a fifth short one, Bought 25’ total. I should have plenty left over.
The work should be strait foreword as long as you have everything you need before hand. like -B- said hardest part is figuring out what you want to do, there are a lot of ways to go about it. Rich has posted a fairly complete list of requirement/features of a dual battery system, looking at those and deciding which are important to you is a good place to start.
Victor, I budgeted 6’ of cable for the 4 main battery cables, and a fifth short one, Bought 25’ total. I should have plenty left over.
Progress
Today I Pulled the cluster and made what was supposed to be the final connections, was then to move on to second fuse box and then to electrical accessories. Ran into a problem
Truck is currently wired like this
Looks like:
And a Southern touch:
Only problem is the auto mode does not work, apparently the alternator cannot get past the inrush of the solenoid (3.8A) and capacitor (?A) put together, this surprises me as Slee is powering 3 relays and a solenoid direct form that same signal.
Going to have to off-load it some how, either with a small relay or transistor.
This started an ultra simple system,
More later when I get it right
Today I Pulled the cluster and made what was supposed to be the final connections, was then to move on to second fuse box and then to electrical accessories. Ran into a problem
Truck is currently wired like this
Looks like:
And a Southern touch:
Only problem is the auto mode does not work,
apparently the alternator cannot get past the inrush of the solenoid (3.8A) and capacitor (?A) put together, this surprises me as Slee is powering 3 relays and a solenoid direct form that same signal.Going to have to off-load it some how, either with a small relay or transistor.
This started an ultra simple system,
More later when I get it right
I should have taken it apart again wile I had it out yesterday and taken better pictures the first ones did not come out well
No striping on the resistor it is gray with black writing; it says 75 ohm's and then something else in congi (SP?) IIRC, I assume a manufacturer's mark. The resistor is quite large it may be rated for 5w or more
The diode is tiny, no markings besides one black stripe, clear body (glass?) with a small red core and a black stripe at one end
No striping on the resistor it is gray with black writing; it says 75 ohm's and then something else in congi (SP?) IIRC, I assume a manufacturer's mark. The resistor is quite large it may be rated for 5w or more
The diode is tiny, no markings besides one black stripe, clear body (glass?) with a small red core and a black stripe at one end
