anyone have 1" body lift? (1 Viewer)

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clownmidget

clownmidget

Joined
Jul 2, 2003
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After the threads in the past about body lifts, suspension lifts, flex, exhaust clearances, tires, wheels, off-sets, coolant system woes, and the distinct possibility that the fzj-80 was originally designed and built by aliens visiting an ancient civilization....uh, got off track there.

Is anyone running (have experience using) the one inch body lifts such as those from Marks (AUS)??? In my case I'm interested in it for exhaust routing but wanted to check on what else is affected like steering, radiator, electricals, heater hoses, etc. I know a 3" lift is a whole different beast so I was really just thinking everything could "stretch" with the 1" spacers. Marks4WD kit is just 12 spacer pucks and bolts so I know I can have that locally. It's the other stuff that has me a bit cautious. So who knows what it entails besides the pucks and the labor? Thanks in advance.
Mike R
 
clownmidget said:
After the threads in the past about body lifts, suspension lifts, flex, exhaust clearances, tires, wheels, off-sets, coolant system woes, and the distinct possibility that the fzj-80 was originally designed and built by aliens visiting an ancient civilization....uh, got off track there.

Is anyone running (have experience using) the one inch body lifts such as those from Marks (AUS)??? In my case I'm interested in it for exhaust routing but wanted to check on what else is affected like steering, radiator, electricals, heater hoses, etc. I know a 3" lift is a whole different beast so I was really just thinking everything could "stretch" with the 1" spacers. Marks4WD kit is just 12 spacer pucks and bolts so I know I can have that locally. It's the other stuff that has me a bit cautious. So who knows what it entails besides the pucks and the labor? Thanks in advance.
Mike R
Click to expand...

I have a stock OME lift that raised the boat about 2" (should of only been 1/2")
 
Lurker,
He's asking about a body lift. Different animal. Main issues for most of us are that the bumpers and sliders have to be custom; can't use ARB, Hanna, or Slee without an additional 1" gap.
-B-
 
Beowulf said:
Lurker,
He's asking about a body lift. Different animal. Main issues for most of us are that the bumpers and sliders have to be custom; can't use ARB, Hanna, or Slee without an additional 1" gap.
-B-
Click to expand...

He seem to want to know about clearances also, that's why I chimed in.

"In my case I'm interested in it for exhaust routing but wanted to check on what else is affected like steering, radiator, electricals, heater hoses, etc."

Again around here, I'm sorry that I tried to help. :flipoff2:
 
Ok, so if anyone has any size of body lift, what did they have to deal with? I already know about obvious downsides to this approach as Beo pointed out, just wanted to know about unforeseen issues with shifter, fuel lines, brake lines, etc. Don't everyone reply at once either, don't want to crash the system...
Mike R.
 
I don't have a body lift, so can only respond based on what I rememeber reading on this board. The primary worry I've read about is the torque stress caused by having the frame separated from the body. Off road, in difficult conditions, due to the weight of the truck, the natural flex between body and frame may be too much for extended bolts.

I'm not an engineer, so cannot speak to the validity of this concern, but have seen this concern posted more than once.

Best Regards,
 
Shawn Jackson www.actionjackson.com has a 3" lift if thats of any use. I believe he is on the board and on 80scool.
U might try the 80scool_aus list as I know some of those guys have a 1" (but more have higher).
 
1" body lift - 1997 FZJ-80

Ok, so now I can answer my own question - "Why yeah, I do!"

Probably worthless info but just in case:

There are 10 spacers required with a 10-mm bore. I chose Roger Brown (4Crawler) to make me the spacers in 2" diameter and have the exterior dyed black. In these specs they were $5/each.

The stock OEM hardware is as follows, just get it a length that accomodates your spacers:
From front to rear:
(1) 175-mm
(2) 110-mm
(3) 110-mm
(4) 110-mm
(5) 125-mm

The stock hardware is 10-mm x 1.25 pitch (metric fine thread) but longer and hardened bolts could only be sourced on short notice in 10-mm x 1.5 pitch. Of course you could just use American too. Because of the thread difference I couldn't re-use the nuts so I used one flange nut w/ external star locking washer and then capped that with a nylon lock nut. Total hardware cost was just under $30 - the 200-mm bolts were $4.50 each!

I'll post pics once it stops raining. As I had mentioned before I did this mainly for exhaust and intercooler routing. Of course an exta inch in the wheel wells is nice too. Custom front and rear bumpers will pretty easily compensate for this mild body lift. Also, I have the Hanna sliders and he made the ones I have so tucked up next to the body it doesn't even look odd.

Hope this is useful to someone.
Mike R.
 
Thanks, can't wait to see the pics.
 
Did you purchase bolts that have a high shear rating as opposed to "hardened" bolts as you mentioned.

"Hardened" can be mis-interpreted as case hardened which would be the wrong type of bolt.

I can't recall the exact properties for each class but if I remember correctly, Grade 6 bolts have the highest shear strength and 'toughness' (typically used as pins as in your case) vs. something like a grade 8 which I believe would be considered 'hardened' which is made to withstand high torque values and is strongest against being pulled apart as in engine head bolts.

Again this is just off the top of my head but I could confirm with my Machinest Handbook when (if?) I get to work tomorrow.

Since you already did the project, did you have any problems with any of your initial concerns? (ie, streched wires, brake lines, etc.) Is there anything you see that may have issues later on (over time due to vibration)?

WET
 
I will add that you may have to drop the radiator or at least repostion the Fan Shroud. If you have a suspension lift also you may have to have exteneded brake lines or at least drop the mounts for the hard lines. Steering shaft should slip the extra inch, you may have to adjust the Tranny shift linkage. If the t-case shifter hits any place, make a 1 inch spacer to raise it. ABS wires may have to be rerouted. This may not be all that you encounter. There are the wire going to the O2 sensors that may need to be re attached in a different spot. Will have to work the A/C lines when lifting the body. Hope that helps. later robbie
 
Just wait and save up and do it right. It will be worth it in the end and you will be happier. Most people who get body lifts end up regreting it in the long run. Get the OME for the lift and for better suspension all around. Just my opinion.
 
robbie said:
I will add that you may have to drop the radiator or at least repostion the Fan Shroud.
Click to expand...

2nd that. I have a 2" body lift on the ShortBus. You need to drop the radiator. If you don't, one day when you off-road, the truck is going to flex, the fan catches the shroud and cuts your radiator.

Happened to me, I did drop the radiator, just not enough. Also, you may or may not get interference with your steering shaft and fire wall. Easy to fix.

a 1" body lift will do wonders for exhaust clearance and a host of other issues. Also not that bad in terms of bumpers not lining up etc. 2" is better for clearance reasons, but the gaps left are unsightly. I did mine and made everything custom after that. You will not say it has a body lift on it. However the body does more more on the mounts than before.
 
So what is the problem with the bumpers (ARB, Kaymare) doing a 1" body lift?
They are fastened to the frame. I too have pondered doing this. When I went to a 3" exhaust I found that it is 3" until it has to go over the frame, they reduced it there to 2 1/2 and flattened it some (as the stock one was). I wanted 3" exhaust all the way...

Christo - What is involved with lowering the rad?

Yomama
 
stuck in GA said:
Just wait and save up and do it right. It will be worth it in the end and you will be happier. Most people who get body lifts end up regreting it in the long run. Get the OME for the lift and for better suspension all around. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

How does a suspension lift help him with exhaust routing? How many vehicles with body lifts have YOU owned? How many body lifts have YOU installed? Body lifts serve a comepletly different use than a suspension lift.

Edited for actual tech content:

I have installed a bunch of body lifts for buddies. A 1"(at least on a 4Runner) you don't really have to do anything. The AT shifter should have enough clearance, and I have never relocated a radiator on a Toyota with just a 1" body lift. As for relocating the radiator vs relocating the fan shroud, I recomend that you do the whole radiator. This keeps the shroud where it should be in relation to the rad. for proper airflow and in theory helps with cooling.
 
He was also talking about giving it a better stance and more height but there are better ways to go around that. And i havn't had any just friends that have. Body lifts for most people are a cheap way to lift the car to get bigger tires without changing out the suspension. And i don't see why it is worth it for the exhaust placement?
 
stuck in GA said:
...And i don't see why it is worth it for the exhaust placement?
Click to expand...
Have you looked at your exhaust location? It hangs pretty low. One of the better exhaust re-routes I've seen has it above the frame rails, but a short portion of the exhaust -- just behind the cats -- still has to go under a frame rail.
 
Thats true but it hangs no lower than my trailer hitch so if something hits it will probably my hitch first. Im not worried about it. I like to face that problem when it comes. And if i reroute it i wouldn't do a body lift. I would just replace the exhaust piping and have it tucked up somewhere in the back and aim it down.
 
Sparky?
Stop typing -- read what I posted again...then...

Get up. Go outside. Find the catalytic converters -- they're under the front passenger floor board. Follow the exhaust that exits the cats and watch as it goes UNDER the frame to the muffler, then up above the frame.

I'm not talking about the exhaust pipe.

Unless you've got one JACKED UP rig, your trailer hitch is nowhere near the area I'm talking about.

And...in your grand exhaust re-routing plan, tell me how you're going to get the exhaust to bend straight up to avoid the frame cross member.
 
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