IS it possible to tighten the play in the steering (1 Viewer)

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Jun 1, 2004
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I was wondering if it is possible to tighten up the play in the steeering wheel as well as maybe take some power away so it is alittle harder to turn b/c on the highway it would be nice if the wheel were alittle harder to turn it would feel more stable any thoughts and opions very much appreciated. (some one told me there's an adjsutment on the box but not sure)




T hanks
 
There is an adjustment on the box. Buy the FSM and follow the instructions. I have seen that many have tried with limited or no changes in anything. I just live with mine as is.
 
Factory Service Manual. If you plan to do anything to your truck, buy one from cruiserdan.
 
The little nut and screw on top of the box is what you need to mess with... I've found you can get most of the play out. Get a new O-ring for under the nut.

As for reducing assist, you'll need to remove the valve inside the PS pump and mess with that. Changing the spring in the relief valve can lower or raise pressure - this will affect the outright power you have. Changing the size of the restrictor hole (contained in the same valve) will mess with the speed of the assist. Possibly see if a mini truck valve, or parts from it, would suit. There was a good thread over on Pirate4x4 some time back discussing this.
 
I noticed that when going back and forth from my F350 crew cab to the FJ80 that I had the same feeling about the vehicle wandering. I looked into adjusting the play but the adjustment was as specified in the manual. I beleive part of this is caused by the 80's being all wheel drive. I am used to it now but it took a few months. Good luck!
 
I thought I remember hearing that there is supposed to be "some" play in the steering wheel ....... as to not break your wrist and yank the wheel out of your hands should a tire strike a rock or something? Anyone able to verify this?

I wouldnt expect a F350 and my Cruizer to feel the same, as stated before, being full time 4WD creates a different feel. I have been going back and forth between the FZJ80 and a Saab 9000 Aero, now thats a different feel .... have to remember not to hit the corners so hard in the 80 ;)
 
I've never had any wierd steering, ie. loose, or more play than other vehicles. I would look hard at the tie rod ends, if they are worn, your steering will be sh!##y and have extra play. That's a lesson I learned when I adjusted, then replaced the steering box in my Jeep Scrambler with no changes, then was fixed with new tie rod ends (TRE).
 
Montana Cruiser said:
I thought I remember hearing that there is supposed to be "some" play in the steering wheel ....... as to not break your wrist and yank the wheel out of your hands should a tire strike a rock or something? Anyone able to verify this?
I have not heard this, the LC does have a steering damper which should help. All cars do have a specified amount of play though :confused:
 
I adjusted my steering play by using the screw on top of the steering box. This was after I replaced all steering tie rods as well as replaced the knuckle bearings. Initially I set the preload a little too much which required the wheel to be recentered manually. :whoops:

After realizing I adjusted the steering too tight I readjusted the preload and now most of the play is gone. In my case the adjustment of the screw made a world of a difference.
 
How ?

Any special trick to get the retaining nut loose to enable adjustment of the screw ? My LX steering has a little too much play and I thought that I would try this before delving into more complicated troubleshooting. The nut is a PITA to access but with a swivel joint and an 12 in extension I can get the socket on it. I have applied some pretty good force to a 6 point socket but no go with the nut. The nut does show some surface rust but nothing significant. I did give it a good blast of WD_40 and plan to try again next weekend.
 
If you are wishing for some extra resistance at freeway speeds because of instability/wandering then you're barking up the wrong tree. This is due to loose wheel bearings or beat up tie rod ends. Don't mess with the steering box nut if that's what you're after. Go to one front wheel and grab the top, then shake back and forth until you get the rythm of the entire front end wobbling back and forth. Feel/hear that clunking? That's your problem. You'll need an asisstant to determine if it's the steering knuckle bearings (unlikely) or the wheel bearings (likely).

I have a slight wander in the 97 and know it's from slightly loose wheel bearings. The 93 has never exhibited any wander it's entire life, nor the tendancy to crosswind sensitivity at freeway speeds because it's wheel bearings have always been properly serviced.

As for full time 4wd being the culprit - categorically disagree. An AWD/4WD vehicle is more stable than any other vehicle drive type at freeway speeds. If you've got a wander it's due to one of the many things that can cause it - mismatched tires, underinflated tire, alignment, loose tie rods, loose steering knuckle bearings, loose wheel bearings.
 
The FSM for my '97 specifies a maximum freeplay of 1.57 inches. To check for play, rock the steering wheel gently back and forth with light finger pressure. The maximum movement should not exceed the spec. There is no minimum freeplay mentioned in the FSM, but the steering should be smooth and without rough spots. Adjusting the nut is defintely a pain - removing the charcoal filter may help.
 
On my 60, I had a lot of play when I bought it - though the steering wheel play was w/in factory spec of ~1.6 inches. Replaced/rebuilt everything related to the front axle/steering. Made a big difference. Adjusted the preload on the steering box, didn't make squat difference - but (since I was experimenting) I tried it pretty tight, and you could feel it was binding. After all the above, I adjusted the TRE's tighter, and this made a significant diffference. Spec was (I think) 1.5 turns backed off, and I ended up w/3/4 turn instead.
 
Carter,

Steering wheel freeplay is meaningless if there's play in the bearings/knuckles/tie rods. Moving the steering wheel with free play means you're taking the slack out of the steering arms, then the knuckle, then the spindle turns until the wheel bearings run out of slack, THEN the tire turns. Proper diagnosis would have you start sequentially at the other end - the bearings and work up.

DougM
 
Just as a warning, i attempted to adjust the play in my steering wheel by adjusting the nut on the box. I think i may have over-adjusted it, because soon after i began to develop leaks and groans in the box. So, in my opinion, if you attempt this adjustment, make very minor adjustments, drive it for a while and then if more is needed, adjust again in small increments.
 
I have the same wandering as most other LC's I have checked from wheel bearings up and am now considering the steering box adjustment I have read about, but would like to ask, are there any pointers that anyone can add.....regards Mick from rainy England
 
After I replaced my trunnion bearings and wheel bearings my steering wanreing all went away...

I also replace the suspension the same weekend which should be irrelevant, however I did get an alignment which may have also helped some.

I'd take the time to service your trunnion bearings if'n I was you.

Charlie
 
MMMMMM I have recently done the birf overhauls and the trunnion bearings looked perfect, so didnt bother changing them, it does seem to have got worse since I had the rear tyres changed, the fronts are still ok with quite a lot of tread on them, perhaps a wheel alignment check might be in order?
 

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