Leaf Spring Install Tips Requested (1 Viewer)

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Snead Hearn

Snead Hearn

Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Threads
13
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60
Location
Central Oregon
Greetings Cruiser Fans. As the proud owner of my second Cruiser, a 1980 FJ40, I have been snooping about this forum for about a year and a half and have gained some good info from you all.

Today, my new OME springs, U-Bolts, bushings and shocks arrived. I have 1.5" lift heavy duty H-Shackles on the rig now, and will keep them. I ordered shims with the springs, but am not clear on whether or not I need to install them on both the front and rear axles, and if this installations will give me driveline issues. I wish I had installed with the shackles, but now I can.

Incidentally, I already have extended brake lines (a little mishap with a torch last year, but that is another story).

My Cruiser does have the lean to the driver's side, and I bought the little rectangular gizmo from CCOT last year (too lazy to install since I knew I would be re-springing soon). I read the faq and the nice spring install write-up by the fellow from Englund house plans.

Can I get some suggestions about shimming, the lean and any other tidbits you'd care to offer a fairly novice wrench?

I do have air tools and a decent supply of band-aids and beer. I am not up for SOA, since this mostly visits bad roads to fishing holes as opposed to hardcore wheeling.

Appreciate the comments! Thanks for this forum. Very helpful already.
 
Congrats on your first post. As to advice.....uhh...

If your gonna put shims on, do both ends...and I would think driveline issues would be more likely to occur without them, than with them.

And don't get too happy with the air tools while re-assembling or you'll strip out your shock mount like an idiot.
shockmount.JPG
 
Good luck with the lift, it's not that bad. I just did my 81 and it was easy. I installed 4 degree shims in the back and i had a vibration. After checking the driveshaft I decided to remove the shims. The vibration went away. My advice is every 40 is not the same so try with out shims and go from there.

P.S. it takes about:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:this many.
 
Use the air tools to tighten the "U" bolts only. Use hand tools for the other bolts. The shims are primarily for castor correction and are used on the front axle with the fat end to the front of the truck. I know that sounds like it's wrong as far as the driveline is concerned but if you install it backwards the truck will wander all over the road (I found out the hard way).

You might want to ensure that you have new spring pins too as any spring pins or shackles that have been under the truck since 1980 will be VERY HARD to remove without damage. I always get new shackles, pins and bushings when I do a lift.
 
Thanks for the head's up. It looks like it will be an interesting weekend. I have help in the form a friend who is a Porsche fan, so between us we figure we can at least take it apart. I have a big hammer.

I have new pins, but was thinking I'd try to save the old ones. Bad idea? Should I just cut them off? The shackles were new about a year ago, so I suspect I can get that end off relatively easily.

Thanks for the air-tool tips. If I get this done over the weekend, I'll post some pics.
 
Snead Hearn said:
I have new pins, but was thinking I'd try to save the old ones. Bad idea? Should I just cut them off? The shackles were new about a year ago, so I suspect I can get that end off relatively easily.
Click to expand...

You can try but I wouldn't waste too much time trying!!

btw a torch also comes in handy to burn the old bushings and help the pins and shackles out.
 
Plan on installing new pins. Have a grinder on hand, b/c you may have to grind them off if they are stubborn as mine were. 25 years of dirt and mud, and the bushing have pretty much been welded on...... You also may want to invest in a breaker bar.
 
I just did it yesterday. It wasn't fun doing it at an apartment complex w/out too many tools by yourself.

New spring pins are a must. I ruined the pin's threads on one.

Tools:
Impact wrench for the ubolts helps. I rented one for $18. A highlift, two 6-ton jackstands, a torque wrench, a floor jack, a 22MM deep socket, 19MM deep socket and 17MM socket should help.

The lean lift corrector from Cool Cruisers actually worked. Passenger side install. I was stunned.

Oh, btw, get some silicone spray or PB Blaster and start oiling all of the nuts asap. I did it daily for 4 days. It'll help. Good luck.
 
Update - 1/2 way there!

Saturday was spent under the cruiser. I have the rear leafs and shocks installed. I had a bit of trouble getting the little lean corrector installed in the right rear spring pack.

Removal of the spring hanger pins turned out to be a minor annoyance. I am glad I have new ones, though. I bought the greaseable versions.

When finished, I'll post b/a pics. Most impressive is the additional droop with the OME springs. With the frame supported by stands, the tires came off without issue. I had to jack the axle up to replace them (same size for now) since the axles dropped down so far.

A question has come up. I bought extended brake lines with the springs. I have 4 lines. I must be stupid, but I see only 1 line going to the rear axle - on the passenger side. This doesn't really surprise me, but why did I get 2 long line for the back? Am I missing something? Secondly, the brake line attachement to the frame on the passenger side is really ugly and hard to reach. Any suggestions for simplifying this swap?

Hope to get the fronts on sometime this week. I really want to get out and try it out!

Thanks to all of you for the great comments. I cannot believe how much I have learned here.
 
You have one brake line in the rear, three in the front. You have one for each front wheel and another that suppies the two fronts.
 
Plus, the brakelines are usually labeled, front or back. The two short ones are for each front wheel.

Don't forget to use new copper washers where the line connects to a t fitting. If you got a kit, they should come with new ones. I have reused old ones if they looked good and I didn't have any new ones on hand.
 
Lift install update

Rule #1 - Make absolutely sure the axle is properly supported. When it drops onto your leg, the brake makes a funny-shaped bruise and the installer makes a funny noise.

Rear springs are in, driver's front is in, passenger front is off, but new one not installed. Leg is bruised and knuckles are bloody but I am having fun. As I have read in several other posts here, the pleasure/pain of doing this myself is hard to value. For what it's worth, I am also learning lots about where stuff is and how it is all connected and which bits look like they really need love (most of them!)

Hoping to get the spousal hall pass and finish up, bleed the brakes and get on the (dirt) road this weekend!
 
Just a tip: straps come in handy here to keep the axle from going all the way down. I usually use two floor jacks but not needed. If have have been banging on the shackle bolts don't surprise if your rear lights don't come on.:)
 
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