Locker woes (1 Viewer)

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fzj80kidpen

fzj80kidpen

Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Threads
30
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985
I am still trying figure out the in the hell is wrong with my lockers. All of them.
I have read about every thread and my FSM.
My next step is the troubleshoot the relay I guess.
I have toke the rear actuator off and was going to dig into it but then read about the 9V battery test. So I tested it on the bench and it works fine but the O-ring on the shift fork was dissintigrrating. Is this replacable? Any one have a part number or another method to source it. My local parts guys does not know.
 
fzj80kidpen said:
I am still trying figure out the in the hell is wrong with my lockers. All of them.
I have read about every thread and my FSM.
My next step is the troubleshoot the relay I guess.
I have toke the rear actuator off and was going to dig into it but then read about the 9V battery test. So I tested it on the bench and it works fine but the O-ring on the shift fork was dissintigrrating. Is this replacable? Any one have a part number or another method to source it. My local parts guys does not know.
Click to expand...


I would think the dealer would have it or measure and order one from mcmaster carr.
 
You know the center diff has to be in low right? And that to lock the front and rear you need to be driving the vehicle in a slight arch rather that staight. :) Sorry if you already know all this but you didn't mention it.

Also, since you have the actuator off the vehicle why not just plug it into the harness, don't re-install it, and turn the switch to see if it is getting signal from the ECU. It is is the shaft will move in and out.
 
Cruiser804,
No problem, but I do know that already.
I got frustrated on the center diff so I decided to look into the rear.
I when I jumper the center diff the ABS lights and CDL lights come on but the actuator never does its thing and locks. After testing the rear actuator with a 9V and seeing that it works I then tried that on the center. It also works fine with the 9V. I heard it and I know it locked because when I went to try and manually move the rear actuator into lock position I could not lockit because the gear were not aligned. I had one rear wheel on jack stands so that I could rotate it but it did not move because the center was locked (doooo). So I applied the 9V and unlocked then I could rotate the rear DS wheel and manually lock the rear. In my happiness with the rear I put it all back together (this is at about midnight). The next morning I check the work bench and damn it there is the half rotted shift fork seal - o-ring thing. My guess is that I need really need to get a good one and put it in.
 
For the front and rear to work, the center must be locked with the lights, ABS & CDL lit, so this is the place to start. Have you run the FSM tests on the relay box and wiring?

It sounds like a problem with the CDL relay or the L4 Position Switch isn't giving the signal to shift? Do you have a CDL switch? What seal/o-ring are you talking about, pix would help.
 
Tools R Us,
I have read your previous posts on this many times and actually have it printed in garage and used it to help me get to where I am now. I also have the FSM and will be digging down to the cdl relay harness this weekend to test it.
Originally I had no ABS or CDL lights. But the front and rear would at least blink.
Now they have quite blinking completely.
When I jumped the 4-lo sensor it sparked and shorted out on me against the trans. It blew the diff fuse. I replaced it but the blinking f&R are still not blinking. I seems to be making thinks worse.
When I had the rear actuator off and 9V tested it a rubber seal came out on the actuator arm. Very dry and brittle - stuck to the arm. I think it a seal from within the actuator and is probably not replaceable. Which brings up the question of how important is this seal?
It looks like a seal that keeps diff gear oil from going into the actuator.
 
Raventia's threads have also been a huge help.
I when I jump the cdl sensor (on front/top of trans case) and shift to low then I hear the cdl relay click. I would think that this means that the 4lo sensor is doing its job and the cdl relay is suspect because the cdl actuator never moves.
Does anyone have a pic of the cdl relay. I know its behind the ABS computer but I have no idea what I am looking for. Is the diff lock ecu in this same area?
 
Diff lock ECU is behind the PS kickpanel. Check Boston Mangler post on retro fitting lockers in FAQ. He has a piture. Not sure about the center but the I have a wiring harness diagram and it really only shows the general location, appears to be under the shifter.
 
fzj80kidpen said:
Raventia's threads have also been a huge help.
I when I jump the cdl sensor (on front/top of trans case) and shift to low then I hear the cdl relay click. I would think that this means that the 4lo sensor is doing its job and the cdl relay is suspect because the cdl actuator never moves.
Does anyone have a pic of the cdl relay. I know its behind the ABS computer but I have no idea what I am looking for. Is the diff lock ecu in this same area?
Click to expand...


The CDL relay is in the driver kick panel, IIRC it is labeled transmission control relay or something like that. It's the same one you access for the pin 7 mod, search pin 7 mod for pix. The F & R locker relay is in the passenger kick panel.
 
I will dig into it tonight.
I know the cdl actuator works and I here the cdl relay click if jumped so the question is the cdl relay sending voltage to the actuator or if it is sending voltage are my wires shorting. Has to be one of the two. Why would my front and rear diff lights stop blinking?
 
Maybe some punk stole your lockers while you weren't looking......that would explain the no workie. :)
Hey, if my truck has a part that will help you, go ahead and borrow it. I know mine has the CDL working, but I don't know if the ecu's are different or not.
 
Finally got the chance to spend an hour messing with this frustruating electrical puzzle. I had confirmed that the rear and center actuators where functioning and wanted to confirm the front. I did the 9V deal on the front and it works. Exercised it a couple time and confirmed that it was actually locking (had it up on jack stands and could turn wheels then could not) I checked the cdl relay and it checked out. Hhmm. Puzzled. Diff lights and CDL lights at this point are all not working at all. So what else to do. Everything checks out individually. So I put it all back together and make sure the connection on the cdl is pushed tight. I then go down the street to a circle and attempt to excercise it. Nothing. No lights at all. I then decide to pull the diff fuse (30A) and immediately the ABS & CDL light come on. I drive it for a while and feel the difference in handling. I then attempt the rear diff, nothing, so I put the diff fuse back in. Try it again and nothing. I then press on the fuse and the front and rear start flashing. So it appears that the prick that put a clip in the diff fuse slot loosened it enough to make the contact way loose. So all actuators work just need to get the rear light to stay on. I think it may be locking as the wheels really bind up.
Big thanks to Tools R Us and RavenTai for the excellent detailed threads that helped me keep my head straight. I can not believe that this has all turned out to be in the fuse block. Sweet finding for me. No big dollar fixes:)
 
I can't tell you how many PO stereo installs have pissed me off.
the last 60 I owned, the first day I just pulled a whole rats nest out and tossed it. There was no way I was going to leave all that crap in there and let it take it's toll on me later. It was easier to pull, trash, and re-wire the RIGHT way.
Good to hear they work....now you can ride on the trail with me again. :)
 
What wrong you don't like seeing my 80 jumping in the air trying to get over big rocks with one wheel drive?
 
Jumping didn't bother me, it was the thought of having to extract a broken 80 from that particular spot! :rolleyes:
What's amazing is that it didn't break and you made it through. Says a lot about 80's strength, eh?
 
Drove the 80 to work today and took it home at lunch.
On the way home I had to try it.
ABS & CDL came right on with no delay.
Turnded the rear diff lock on and it locked right up and lights stayed on.
No more blinking.
All 3 lockers worky.
I am sooo wanting to go wheeling NOW!
 
fzj80kidpen said:
Drove the 80 to work today and took it home at lunch.
On the way home I had to try it.
ABS & CDL came right on with no delay.
Turnded the rear diff lock on and it locked right up and lights stayed on.
No more blinking.
All 3 lockers worky.
I am sooo wanting to go wheeling NOW!
Click to expand...

Good deal!:cheers:
 
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