Emissions failure! (1 Viewer)

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Sean just called me about this (another dissatisfied customer).

The throttle linkage is assembled wrong.

There are at least 4 visibly wrong vac hoses in the first picture.


He's gonna correct those installation errors and we'll see how it goes then.
 
Still needs to be dialed in even if it was adjusted via another runner. It may be close, but not close enough to pass smog. Each engine is different, different stages of wear, and different variables in climate and elevation.


This is completely wrong. THere are essentially no adjustable parameters on the carb. The only thing adjustable is IDLE Mixture via the "lean drop" method, which I believe Jim Does before it goes out. I've passed smog with two different JimC carbs without any adjustments on my part. ie it was done right.

The running mixture is set by the jets internally. They are not adjustable. You can use a different jet for a leaner mix at altitude, but to change it, you have to disassemble the carb.
 
I am still trying to understand all of this with the jets and passing smog. The only way I was able to pass a couple of months ago was to put in a smaller jet and now it doesn't run as well. My engine was rebuilt and all the smog equip. all works. I was barely failing with high CO.

I am still trying to understand the question of why I couldn't pass with the stock jets.

The way I understand is that Toyota designed it to run rich so a lean condition would not occur as easily and then clean up the exhuast with the air injection system and CAT.
 
This is completely wrong. THere are essentially no adjustable parameters on the carb. The only thing adjustable is IDLE Mixture via the "lean drop" method, which I believe Jim Does before it goes out. I've passed smog with two different JimC carbs without any adjustments on my part. ie it was done right.

The running mixture is set by the jets internally. They are not adjustable. You can use a different jet for a leaner mix at altitude, but to change it, you have to disassemble the carb.


I'm not bashing whoever JimC is, if thats what you're getting at...........Don't know the fella, so I have no opinion on that matter.
But you are wrong if you don't think that the idle speed or mixture adjustment doesn't have an effect on tailpipe emissions.
 
Test your cat with an infrared thermometer - FSM has specs for input & output temps (output is considerably hotter if it's working).

Got the cat for my '83 from catalyticconvertors.com IIRC. Fit like a glove & passed 1st time.

This fall I put a bottle of carb/injector cleaner in the tank & ran it out, then threw in 4 bottles of Heet & filled it with Premium. Got a "fast pass" right out of the chute!
 
But you are wrong if you don't think that the idle speed or mixture adjustment doesn't have an effect on tailpipe emissions.

The lean drop method Andrew is referring to it to set the idle mixture screw & idle.

It only affects the emissions at idle with a properly working carb. Most of the emission test are done at speed with a a dyno so the idle screw has virtually no effect on passing a smog test unless it is done at idle. If you only have to pass emission at idle, it would be easier to pass.
 
Ok, a few things were wrong. #1, the throttle return spring bracket was bent causing my idle to rev high b/w shifts and such. #2, my vaccum lines were mixed up (refer to diagram above). #3, the linkage bar clip was not installed correctly. I thought the socket "cup" rim area was broken but apparently is supposed to look this way (see other linkage example).

Next item. Please help me with where these next ports go. According to the above diagram, the area circled in BLUE should go to the VCV. What is this and what does it look like? Where does the area circled in GREEN go?

New cat, muffler & exhaust pipe yesterday. Runs even better. Slowly getting there. Thanks for the help!
Carb2.jpg
AirFilter1.jpg
Exh.1.jpg
 
Blue circle is breather fitting for VCV from dissy cap. VCV should be located in a clip on bottom of air cleaner.

Green circle is breather fitting to valve cover. A molded 90* elbow hose should be in that location.

I don't see a cat in the lower pic? Looks like a straight pipe into a flowmaster. Looks good to me, but might not pass emissions inspection?
 
Sorry Jim, here's a better pic of the exhaust setup. Take a look @ this picture. I outlined the vac line coming off the dizzy in GREEN. Looks like this line is branched in with something else. Is this the VSV you were talking about?
Exh.2.jpg
Vac.1.jpg
 
In the photo above, the tube coming out of the top of the VCV goes to the open port on your air cleaner (shown in a picture in post 27). There is a thermal sensor mounted to the bottom of the air cleaner (where this tube is now connected incorrectly). I think that sensor is used to control the hot air trap door which is on the other side of the air cleaner (drivers side). The vacuum routing for the VCV shown above is depicted in post 13. It's in the upper righthand corner of the drawing.

There's another diagram of the vacuum piping in this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=101307&highlight=vacuum+diagram

and in this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=105431&highlight=vacuum+diagram
 
Sorry Jim, here's a better pic of the exhaust setup. Take a look @ this picture. I outlined the vac line coming off the dizzy in GREEN. Looks like this line is branched in with something else. Is this the VSV you were talking about?
You got good info from MBB.

As for passing smog, it would be a good idea to get the vacuum connected to the HIC. It's supposed to be a hose from the HIC valve back to a "T" fitting right above the PCV valve. The HIC system will get warm air into the aircleaner which will vaporize fuel better, giving better test results.

Unfortunately, the T fitting has been lost off your truck. :frown:
 
For closed hood tests only

If you are having trouble passing your local smog test and its a "closed hood test" like here in Wa. state and you dont mind cheating the system.

#1) remove the end of the hose that presently goes into your air rail. Put it aside (protect it fron the manifold).
#2) remove the exhaust (blowing) hose leaving the smog/air pump at the air/filter box end.
#3) put #2 where you disconnected #1.....you are now blowing air down your tail pipe severly deluting your exhaust emmissions

I went from "fail" to almost blowing 0s across the board. ///// I did get a raised eyebrow from the tester......same guy as the first test :doh:


Good luck
 
2nd Failure

Passed CO but failed HC. Much closer this time. Limit was 220 and reading was 278. Any ideas?

Also, the next picture has what I think the HIC line should go. Should there be a small "T" to hook up above the PCV?
IMG_0623.jpg
IMG_0621.jpg
 
I just bought my first Cruiser, an 88 FJ 62, I took it to get the emissions tested and to find a leak in the exhaust as the thing sounded like a diesel (but definitely is not). I passed emissions with flying colors, (I was way, way below on all emissions), but the guy also told me that I need to replace the entire exhaust system except for the manifold. He said it was completely rusted out and that the O2 sensors was not even there anymore, looked like it had been blown out. My question is how was I able to pass emissions levels with all of this wrong and what, if any, damage can be caused by driving without getting this fixed.
 
Passed CO but failed HC. Much closer this time. Limit was 220 and reading was 278. Any ideas?
Install a genuine Toyota PCV valve. The cheapo tin aftermarket ones are icky. Billet steel OEM is calibrated right, and never wears out. While you're at it, install a new PCV grommet.

Also, the next picture has what I think the HIC line should go. Should there be a small "T" to hook up above the PCV?
Yes, you've got it right.
 
Thanks Jim. My 60 drives so much better now. No more chugging in 1st gear, takes hills in 4th gear like a charm & hot starts are a breeze! Still have a small "miss" to the idle so I'm looking into that one. I put a new set of NGK's in about a year ago with wires, cap & rotor. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a fresh set of plugs in again?
 
A miss at idle would cause it to fail a HC test at idle. It could be ignition, but electric problems tend to be worse at higher speeds. Vacuum leaks below the throttle plate (egr stuck open?) can also make it miss at idle.

If you have an exhaust valve that is leaking (burned or too tight) it will also fail HC.
 
Is this at IDLE or on a DYNO

Hello,
I have been reading this post and I still have not found out if the vehicle is tested at IDLE or on a DYNO. Let me know as I have been a NYS Inspector for over 10 years now and can get you to pass but that is what I need to know first.
-Graham :D
 

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