Removed Front Driveshaft (1 Viewer)

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W

Womper

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Mar 8, 2004
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My 92 fj80 with 110k has a clunking sound when going from reverse to drive(slack in drivetrain), so I thought that I would drive it with the front shaft removed to try and isolate where the slack may be. After getting the front driveshaft out, the cruiser would not move at all.
Is my transfer case shot and only driving the front wheels or am I missing something? Thanks
 
If you remove one of the drive shafts then you need to lock the center diff.
 
lock the center diff on the dash, it will then move and they bad noises in the t-case will go away.

what is happening is that with the center diff open and no load on the front shaft the t-case is trying to send all the power to the front end......

lock it and it will be fine, you can drive forever like this.

for the clunking, take a look at the drive plates(hubs) they might have some slack. Other than that its prolly just normal clunking, most 80 make this. New u-joints might be a help. I replaced drive plates, u-joints..........almost no clunk.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. After I got the front shaft back in I kinda figured that I could have locked the center diff and it would have moved. Too late to try it by then, but I still thought that it woud have moved without the center diff being locked. Oh well, live and learn.
On the clunking, the u-joints seem to be fine. The whole front shaft will rotate alot farther than the rear and the clunk seems to come from the front output side of the t-case. I sure wish it would be u-joints, but that is not my luck. Thanks again guys!
 
When I regeared mine I did the front and then the rear the following week. My truck and al 93-97's have the viscus coupler. In order to prevent burning this out I left the front shaft off until both diffs were done. The viscus coupler in my truck works very well and allowed me to back out of the shop with only one shaft without locking the diff. After the 10' test I locked in the center diff untill the rear was done and the shaft reinstalled.
 
I also have the clunk in my '91. When I jack the rear and rotate the rear tire, I watch the drive shafts. There is almost immediate positive rotation of the drive shaft all the way to the from diff. But there is about a 1/2 inch rotation of the front shaft before it stops due to the fixed fron wheels. I can see nor feel no movement at all in the U's.

What would allow such slack in the fron differential? Could the drive plates (hub flanges?) make that much difference?
 
Yes.

-Spike
 
I've learned to just live with it. All part of the FJ80 charm; along with the 3FE, and no passing ability. : ).
 
Another clunk thread?

There's a bunch of slack in the driveline. 3 diffs, 2 slip yolks, 4 universals, 2 drive plates, and 2 birfields. It all adds up to slop in the driveline. It can be minimized by proper periodic maintenance like greasing thing when they need to be greased, but there will always be slop.

Mine has been clunking for 16 years. It's a truck. Just drive the thing.
 
I heard there was a similar gear made in the 62 t-case that could solve some of the clunk in those trucks. I bet similar could be done for the early 80s. I didn't search and post the cross reference as I am a lazy lazy man.
 
Any early toy truck hubs will work 82 to 85 solid axel.
got mine for 25 bucks
 
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