Leaking CV - now noisey-need real time help

Guys,

As with many of you all w/ lifted 100's, my D.Side CV boot started leaking several weeks ago. I ordered a new pair of CV boot's from Cdan and kinda put it on the back burner since the truck only gets driven about 8 miles a day and it was sitting at 4x4labs for the past couple of weeks getting the R.bumper made.

Well, I drove it to work today and I'm getting a noise that sounds like a loose shock with bad bushings (best way to describe it) coming from the same side as the leaking boot...of course I'm suspecting that my CV joint is starting to fail. I'm going to tear it apart this weekend to see.

For those who have done this repair...how hard is it to break apart the A arm and what did you use instead of the toyota SST? A good description of this procedure would be very helpfull. Also, when tightening the clamps on the new CV boot, what did you use there instead of the SST? The rest seems pretty straight forward and alot like a solid axle (of which I have pulled apart and rebuilt many)...anything else to know?

Thx in advance

Bigot-You shoulda stuck with the 80 series.


Usually the clicking means the grease all leaked out, water got in and ruined the joint. I had that happen on my old Subaru. Amando had his apart-give him a shout.

Bret,

I have both tools you need, if you want I can meet you halfway from Sac to Shallow Alto, maybe Dublin or something. We are around this weekend. I just got to pick up Drexx at SFO 9:30 AM Saturday.

You can probably use a gear puller of sorts to get the ball joints off, the bottom one had a lot more room than the top ball joint (the knuckle gets in the way )

The CV boot clamp that comes with the kit from Toyota, one of them you just flatten out the clamp itself and then close the tabs on it, fairly straight forward. The other one you really need the SST for it, because you have to pinch the metal band itself. There are people on the list that have used a hose clamp, I also did this method and the hose clamp I used cut the boot and I had to redo everything again after DV, it sucked!

There are some things to keep in mind, when you take the lower ball joint off, make sure you have something underneath the A-arm to capture all that energy since the torsion bars is pushing down on that thing. Loosen the steering arm part (two 17mm bolts) from the knuckle but leave it on, it will keep the knuckle from flopping around, but its really hard to loosen those bolts once you have the taken the ball joints off. Careful with the routing off the ABS sensor.

You will need a drift to knock the CV itself off the front diff, it is c-clip of sorts that holds it in place inside the front diff - its the same setup in a birfield (the c-clip part, a one time use part) - - - to put the CV back - you just line it up and shove it in.

Anyway, I am sure this will be fairly easy for you compared to the other work you have done on your other trucks.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do, you got my number.

Amando

Celine Dion ROCKS!!!!


There is also this thread with some tips about this topic.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=31698

No dude...YOU rock...fawk Celine I'll give you a ring...thx bro

A brand new OEM axle assembly is around $350.