Early Soft Top Alternative

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Cruiser_Nerd

That 25 Guy.
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OK, since I gave up attempting to finish my Krusty project for the end of the month, I've got loads of time.

I picked up a brand new Bestop Tigertop from the classifieds for a great price. Needless to say, it fits 1964 or newer..............

So follow along as I tear into a brand new top to make it fit my ratty old tub......... :eek: This may be a good alternative for anyone who can score a cheap or used aftermarket soft top.

Pics to follow when I get my camera battery charged. :doh:
 
Does the Bestop use a rail system (versus snaps) like the Kayline's?

And, do the soft-top 25s have the threaded holes around the top edge of the tub?? (It's been so long since I've had my ST 25 to remember. :rolleyes: )

Eager to see the results.
 
Steve the soft tops do not have the treaded holes around the top of the tub. That didn't happen until the mid sixties on the FJ40. The hard top doesn't even fit right on the early style soft top tubs. Now I have a question for you. Does your FJ25 hard top have threaded holes along the top of the tub? The reason I ask is because my 61 FJ40 just has holes all the way thru the top channel so you would use nuts and bolts, but my 63 FJ40 has the treaded holes. I'm thinking maybe the 61 was so rusted out that they just drill the holes after the rusted bolts broke off in the fixed nuts.

John
 
Yep, John. My hardtop body has the very same threaded holes (in the very same locations) as my '78 FJ40. That's how I'm able to throw the modern-day Kayline soft-top on my 25 with literally no modifications, since the Kayline FastTrac tops use the clip/rail system that bolts right into those existing holes.

Obviously it must be the standard that Toyota set for all hardtops (25s & 40s) from the very beginning. So, someone must've drilled out the threads on your '61 FJ40.
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LandCruiserSteve said:
Does the Bestop use a rail system (versus snaps) like the Kayline's?

Steve, the Tigertop uses snaps - which didn't matter to me, either way, I'd have to drill holes. :frown:
 
OK here we go..................
First I stuck the door on to see how it fit. Not to good, but workable.
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The door is made to fit the top of hardtop hinges. If you unbolt the upper hinges, flip them upside down and then put them back on the opposite side, your good. ;)

I tried later hardtop hinges and they weren't bent the same way (centered front to rear in the opening). Maybe it was the set I had, anyhow, flipping them worked for me.
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Now the fun. I decided to leave the bottom hinge where it was, obviously I have to move up the lower mounting stud.
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This turned out to be the only cutting of material I had to do. Gloria attacked all the lower edges with a "seam ripper" ............................ I stood back. :eek:
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Cut the forward bar, and peel back the lower skin.
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The mounting pins need to be 14 3/4" on center.
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The first chop. I removed the rear diagonal, the door latch plate, cut the rear of the frame, and took out about 1 3/4" from the front bar:
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Check the hinge spacing again, tack it together and then take out another 1" from the front bar:
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Weld the front bar and front diagonal brace back together. Weld a wedge on the door latch plate to make it square.
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Now bend the bottom bar straight and then into a lazy S to fit the door opening. I imagine this would be easier with four sets of hands. ;)
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The door latch/strike would latch onto the door post of a hardtop, that spot just doesn't exist on the soft top tub. I decided to use the top edge of the tub to latch onto.
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Well I don't care what year Cruiser you own this part is a pain. Basically follow the instructions. I started with the snap in the back. The edge of the "notch" at the door pillar lines up with the seam in the body. (Picture the door post of the 40that its cut out for.)
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I'll have to make a bracket for the door post to fit into................not tonight. :rolleyes:
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Not too bad, I'll take the doors to a shop and get them resewn this week. :cool:
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That's all for tonight! :)
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