factory locters cleanning? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 20, 2005
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13
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45
Location
Central Ca
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for cleanning the factory locker accuators past what the Toyota factory manual says?
 
Boston, i know that you got your rig recently and i'm looking to get mine between now and December(depends how long it takes to find the right one) and i was wondering how you determine if a electric factory locker is in good shape or not? If i find one with lockers, should i just go ahead and get it and deal with it after.. since they're kinda hard to find??
 
SOCALFJ said:
Boston, i know that you got your rig recently and i'm looking to get mine between now and December(depends how long it takes to find the right one) and i was wondering how you determine if a electric factory locker is in good shape or not? If i find one with lockers, should i just go ahead and get it and deal with it after.. since they're kinda hard to find??

Depends on how much of a deal it is! Best to obviously find one in nice shape with locking lockers, but if they dont lock, they usually just need a cleaning! Has anyone here actually had them break??? If so, speak up? Sometimes the actuators get gummed up, no biggie!
 
Boston.. Right awn... ok... so yeah... has anyone ever broken a factory locker?? I know that my ARB air locker was "warrantied" up to a 33's tire, but i ran 35's no problem... .. what can a factory Toy elect. locker withstand? Also, what happens when something breaks? Are parts avail?
 
Boston Mangler,

I know that you have installed the locker's ECU, lights, and rotary switch, but have you turn the switch to RR or FR/RR to see if the lights on the dash panel blink? I'm just curious, because I have installed the locker ECU, lights, and rotary switch, I'm just a little nervous to turn the dial. I also have the front wiring harness and I can get the rear and the one that is 14 feet long next week. Then all I need are the axles that has the lockers and I will be set.
 
Hey Noel

Yes, go ahead and turn that dial and watch the lights light up! Call me weird (most do) but it was very cool when i first did that! :D

Your almost there!
 
To test the lockers find a large dirt, mud, grass or loose gravel area, not on pavement or even hard packed surfaced.

Put the transmission in park or neutral and put the T-case in low, you should get the center locker light and ABS light, both are yellow. The center must be locked for the front and rears to lock. Next go to the first position on the rotary switch, just the rear axle. you should get a blinking red light, turn in a circle. It may take a good portion of the circle for the rear to lock, keep the speed down they are disabled above a certain speed that I cannot remember. When the locker locks the light will go solid instead of blinking. Then go to the second position, front+rear, repeat the circle movement. Again when its light goes solid it is locked, you may hear a click or pop when they engage or especially when disengaging depending on how much drivetrain wind up was created wile the cruiser was locked.


The locker itself is a collar that slides on spines on the right axle shaft (short side). It has teeth on one face that engage matching teeth the differential carrier. Once engaged the right shaft cannot spin at a different rate than the carrier, that means neither can the left shaft tying the left and right tires together.

The locker actuator is a collection reduction gears, a motor, springs and limit and indicatingswitches. The motor winds up the wait spring until the limit switches are hit and the motor turns off, the springs hold the locking collar against the carrier waiting for the teeth to line up (most of the time it will not just drop in) , it takes a difference in rotation from the left wheel to the right to let them line up, hence the turning in a circle. Some people think this is a sticky actuator because of the long wait for the locker to fully engage, in a slippery situation where you actually need lockers as opposed to a test they will engage quite quickly as a slipping tire on one side will provide the difference in rotation.

I have not heard of any lockers breaking, the few problems are usually a switch (several switches on and around the actuators) or other electrical problem or rot from water getting in the actuator. You cannot get parts of the actuator from Toyota only the whole assembly ($$$).

If you still think you need to rework the actuator take note on the rear actuator you need to take measurements of shaft extension before taking it apart to be used to clock it later during assembly. Once taken apart this clocking is lost. (what tooth of this gear to what tooth of that gear) The FSM gives instructions for clocking the front actuator as in the front the shaft stays with the axle. Where in the rear the shaft stays with the actuator.

Read more here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=17701
 
Last edited:
devo said:
Socalfj
Why would you use a stupid XJ as your avitar on our LandCruiser site?
Just curious.

devo


Because he has not got a LandCruiser yet?
 
RavenTai,

Thanks for showing us how lockers work.
 
I am glad to help.
 

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