PS fluid flushed... (1 Viewer)

The easiest way I found:

Supplies:
3/8" barb
6' or longer of 3/8" tubing, clear vinyl makes it easier to see what is going on.
Small hose clamps
Cap for return port, I had a plastic shipping cap from a master cylinder that fit.
2-3 quarts of fluid


1. Set parking brake.
2. Lock cdl. (put in low or set cdl switch with key on)
3. Block rear tires.
4. Lift front axle so the tires clear the ground,
5. Set axle on jack stands being careful they will not interfere with the travel of the tires when turning, removing the front tires may be needed for clearance.
6. Enjoy the cold beverage of your choice.
7. Remove return line from the reservoir, it is the upper and smaller of the two hoses on the reservoir, it is a slip fit with a clamp. It comes in mid height on the side to a L shaped metal tube.
8. Catch the ~1/2 quart of fluid that drains from the return tube in the reservoir, then plug it so the reservoir can hold fluid.
9. Slide the barb into the return line you disconnected, slide the clear tubing on the barb, clamp both joints. Route the tube into a container or drain pan.
10. Fill reservoir with new fluid
11. Turn the key to acc to unlock the steering wheel but do not start engine, also do not leave in the "on" position for any length of time.
12. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock.

As the wheel turns the large piston in the steering box will draw fluid from the reservoir through the pump, in the box, out to the cooler and out the return line to your drain pan, valves in the box keeps the fluid going in the same direction no matter witch way the piston is moving.

Keep the reservoir from emptying if air gets in it breaks the prime take a bit to get going again and will form foam.

13. When clean fluid starts coming out of the line reconnect the return line the reservoir, cycle lock to lock until the level the reservoir does not drop (air spaces replaced with fluid) and all foam settles out and stops circulating, this may take some waiting for the foam the settle between cyclings

14. Start engine cycle lock to lock, check for leaks.

15. Return to normal condition.

I prefer this to doing it with the engine running as with it running things happen very fast and it is almost impossible to keep the pump fed. Although running the pump dry for a short period is not likely to kill it, it is still counter productive IMHO.

HTH

I think step 6 probably needs to be repeated a couple of times during the process.

TomH said:

I think step 6 probably needs to be repeated a couple of times during the process.

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Agreed. always repeat step six as needed

I found that in repeating #6 you will find the other steps unnecessary.

LandCruiserPhil said:

I found that in repeating #6 you will find the other steps unnecessary.

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I think the key is to finish the project before too many #6's are finished.

TomH said:

I think the key is to finish the project before too many #6's are finished.

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I agree with that for sure. I can't really hit the #6s if i'm really wrenching. I'm kinda a light weight and after 4 or 5 i start fawking things up.

Hmmm....Can I clean my clothes with Power steering conditioner? Not bustin' on use of downey. I;m a big fan of using stuff designed for an application to do something completely different....Hmmmm That why I have a vw golf with lift kit and trailer hitch I guess....

Few comments on Raven's note above:

For supplies:
I got the copper water barb from HomeDepot. It has multiple ribs on both sides & fit tightly on the return hose - so no additional clamps required.
As for the return reservoir cap - cut about 2-3" of the clear tubbing, and put PVC in one end to seal it up. I used paper block at the time being.

I think what Raven really meant in the last paragraph is that he would prefer NOT to have the engine running when doing this.

Directions:
2. Skip
5. Skip
7. It's better to syphone out the old fluid before removing the line
9. As mentioned above, no clamps needed (open port so not much pressure there)
10. Do NOT put new fluid in yet (don't want to mix them up). Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock until no more fluid came out (take about 5 times each side), then refill the reservoir

After 500 miles, the PS is still quiet as ever.

cheers,
Frank.

Couple of comments on sjcruisers comments on Raven's notes:

I used the same proceedure Raven outlined above. I went without the hose clamps and the clear tubing only popped off a few times (no biggy)... once the tubing gets ATF on them there slicker'n owl sh!t and commence to popping off easier. May be that my stuff just wasn't matched up to good. Either way, it's not a deal breaker.

I used an old ear plug (minus the funk) to plug the resevoir return hole.

sjcruiser: Seems like the approach you've outlined would get air in the system... no?? I'm not sure that's a big deal, as you can work it out, but seems like one more thing to have to mess with.


Rookie2

SJcruiser, yes I meant I prefer using the steering box to slowly move the fluid instead of using the engine and power steering pump like many do and I did with my Chevy before finding this method,

After re-reading that last paragraph it is a bit ambiguous,

Reason for #2 is without locking the CDL on an AWD vehicle when lifting any one tire off the ground the parking pawl is no longer as effective. You are relying on the viscous coupler witch may not kick in at low speed such as rolling of the stands. Locking the CDL positively connects the parking pawl to both the front and rear axles instead of the front or rear axle. With the parking brake applied and rear wheels blocked the parking pawl is redundant so I guess it is not that important.

#5 I do not trust jacks. Especially on the cruiser where you cannot center the jack, so I use stands after lifting, since you are not under the vehicle for this I guess it is OK to leave it on a jack alone just be careful. If it does fall the tires would still be on so all you have to worry about is the jack catching something (LandToy’s locker actuator)

#7 & #10 good idea.

#9, I actually used a short section of 3/8” copper pipe even with clamps it leaked, but more air in that fluid out, a real barb probably would have worked much better.

Rookie2 said:

Couple of comments on sjcruisers comments on Raven's notes:
sjcruiser: Seems like the approach you've outlined would get air in the system... no?? I'm not sure that's a big deal, as you can work it out, but seems like one more thing to have to mess with.


Rookie2

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R2,

Tiny bubbles are instroduced as the new fluid being poured in during the process. Turning the steering wheel from lock to lock with the engine running afterward would bleed out these unwanted air.

cheers,
Frank.

Thanks for the bleeding steps/tips. I've concretejungle's problem with step #6 but I think I might be able to manage

Raven,
thanks for all the detials. I was very unsure how to do it and now feel like i will not miss a step.

By the sound of it if all the fluid was removed from the reservoir and moving the wheels from lock to lock there is a better chance of getting all the old fluid out and not mixing with the new. What about air bubbles? If there is no foam there no more air in the lines?

K9-Cruzer said:

Raven,
thanks for all the detials. I was very unsure how to do it and now feel like i will not miss a step.

By the sound of it if all the fluid was removed from the reservoir and moving the wheels from lock to lock there is a better chance of getting all the old fluid out and not mixing with the new. What about air bubbles? If there is no foam there no more air in the lines?

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I used Dino juice last time was not that worried about mixing the fluid as I used a lot of it, with the $5/quart stuff might be worth getting air in to get a good clean break between the two. The air can be worked out after hooking the return line back up as in step # 13 above

If you miss a little when doing step 13 it will work its way out later through normal driving, you may hear noise when running if any of the tiny bubble get into the pump,

OK, just did my flush based on RT's method.
The idea of doing the pumping with the engine off is just brilliant! It's very controllable this way.

I first sucked out all the old fluid with a syringe. Ugly dark affair!
Then disconnected the return. To close the reservoir inlet, I just used a lenght of a couple of inches of 3/8" tubing clamped shut. (One could also just put a length of tube and lift the end above the reservoir).
Then pumped out all the rest, for a total of about 0.6 - 0.7 liters of old fluid, by moving the wheels. Added about a quart of fresh fluid in increments, pumping it out each time. Emptied it out.
Reconnected it all.
Finally, ended up putting 700 ml of fresh ATF (Chevron Dexron III). (Might be a tad too much though, will need to check.)
Then bled the system with engine running. Very easy.
After a short time, level stabilized and no bubble to be seen.
Done.
Very easy job, if you have the right tubing, connectors, and clamps.

No more groaning! (The PS, I mean...)

Glad I did this. Thanks RT and others!


(will suggest this to Junk for FAQ)

I would not recommend flushing the PS. My PS was fine at 130K miles on my 95 LC and I decided that as a PM I would flush and put in clean fluid. Leaked afterward and had to replace the PS pump. If it ain't broke don't mess with it. JMHO

This is strange........i did the flush about 4 months ago. All went well and i replaced with Mobil 1 syn ATF fluid. I developed a leak in my resevior cap. THen i started noticing a moan. Ordered a new cap from Dan, thanks dan, and replaced. Now, no leaks, fluid looks good and it's full, but now i have some moaning in my power steering. I am wondering what the heck the deal is?

anyboady else have moaning or leaks wih M1 in the PS? I was planning to go to that on the next flush. I did it with chevron Dino last time, no moaning or leaks but it turned dark pretty quick, dont know if it overheated, oxidized or just cleaned the old sludge out oif the system. the original fluid was nasty and likely the original stuff from Japan.

Concretejungle, maybe you can try the downey trick?

I have some silicone fluid, wonder if that would work?

RavenTai said:

Concretejungle, maybe you can try the downey trick?

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I'm thinking about that. Actually, since i had a leaking cap, i'm worried some moisture might have gotten introduced. So, i think i might flush once more. If that doesn't work, downey it is.

Pitbull said:

I would not recommend flushing the PS. My PS was fine at 130K miles on my 95 LC and I decided that as a PM I would flush and put in clean fluid. Leaked afterward and had to replace the PS pump. If it ain't broke don't mess with it. JMHO

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??
so what do you suggest? never change the fluid? mine was pretty dark. Can't be good to keep it in there forever, I would assume...
or did you mean to not "flush" the fluid as in doing an alternative procedure?