the engine in the picture is a 1HZ (factory turbo or not, don't ask me though). The injectors and glow plug configuration are different on the 1HD-T. The 1HZ and 1HD are 12V where as the -F variants are 24V ie: 1HD-FT, 1HD-FTE.
A friend of mine has the old style on a '90 or '91 HDJ80 and I didn't like it much. Scratch that I pretty much hated it, having experienced the manual h151 before. The annoying torque converter slippage mad it impossible to enjoy the low end torque of the 1HD-T. In the city or bad traffic it...
I couldn't tell all the exact models but european and jdm 2nd gen (88-95) diesel 4runners definately had them
that one is easy because the transmission he dropped in also came from a 4runner and the auto/manual tcases are just about the same
I don't have firm facts to give about this but the...
That sounds like a lot of work for a very little gain if you're not going with a crawler box inbetween.
part-time conversion can be much easier than that ;)
nope, the only thing is the tail housing pattern for a r150f in a mini/4runner with a chain driven tcase is the same as the a343f in a mini with a chain driven tcase.
you would have to hybridize the 80 343 with a mini/4runner 343 (or switch to the complete tranny) to get to the smaller output...
we put a front elocker in a friends HDJ80 (rear lsd) with the factory harness, switch and relay box (I'm not sure the relay box was already fitted ot not, I think not) and it works just fine, the rear lock light just keeps blinking:hillbilly:
You probably realized that if you remove some material on the carrier face you'll have to compensate for the conical bearings preload upon reassembly by using different shims.
Just thought I'd add it for reference.
:beer:
honestly the spacer is just there to keep the gear from walking out when 4WD is not engaged. In 2WD the front gear stays immobile while the carrier turns at (rear) output shaft speed, but there is virtually no force acting on it so its spinning freely. there might be a wear issue at the bearing...
for clarification, I did not fill the volume between the gear and case, I only cobbled a couple of parts together to offset the welding toward the center of the case have have as little as possible to fill while having a longer circumferencial weld for strength as can be seen on the thread here...
Are you talking about this ?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/246446-diy-part-time.html
It's still holding up fine after about 20,000km, half of it towing the heavy trailer.
The last one I worked on was a ******* ****** of a ***** indeed.
Vise grips on the lower hook did the trick, along with tight hands and sweat.
Good luck
no and no
1HZ will work
1FZ maybe if you can find the suitable bellhousing
if you can fab an adapter anything is possible.
what do you mean "back pressure" ?!
I'm a believer in the L series engines, and have a 2WD hilux with a 2LT2 engine I used to tow a fair bit with, including cross country trips. Now I also have a stockish HDJ80 so I guess I can make a somewhat educated comment : don't do it. You will be enjoying the 80 at 25% of what you could if...
There's no such thing as a toyota 4.5 V6, but I'm guessing you' talking about FZJ 80 series (4.5 I6), in which case you're in the wrong section, try the one just above :flipoff2: