It has been too long, I don’t remember. Ended up swapping in a v8 and associated transmission, and am not sure what the timeframe was for that vs the a442 issues.
I haven’t fit a 4L80 so I can’t directly compare. I do know the 6L seemed quite simple, and a serious upgrade in terms of operation. Simple ability of it to calibrate the clutch clearances by itself is awesome. Much better ratio spread. Much simpler adapter setup. TCM built into the unit...
I got it working on a genIV engine using the gm body control module and the stock toyota stalk. Without the BCM I can’t see it working without an add-on module. At least not on gen4.
Details of my version are posted earlier in this thread
Most likely the old ones will be extremely difficult to get out. PB blaster on the slot will help a lot. But, there will probably still be rust and crap in the threads. I used my old TRE and cut a slot in the threads with an angle grinder, then cleaned those thread edges up with a small file...
Yes do both. Be warned getting the cone washers loose to remove the old drive flange can be a challenge.. don’t destroy either the stud or the cone washer.
You won’t know how bad the birf is until you get the flange off.. since it is harder steel it could be fine but for now I’d just have...
Did all 93s get the viscous coupler?
If either driveshaft spins while stationary it’s not the tcase or transmission. Very unlikely to have the rear shaft spinning while stationary fwiw.. that half of the system is very stout.
If the front shaft spins it could be the diff, an inner axle...
93 could have the thinner drive flanges.
Any attempt to jack up and spin one tire or use CDL doesn’t isolate the problem to the flanges.. only way to do that is pop off the dust cover of each one on the front hub and see what’s going on.
All of the drive flange talk is moot (usually) if you...
Well, my rig is up for sale. here's the classified thread: For Sale - 1994 + 6.2L LS.. and much more.
the 944 swaps forum had a thread on a heater valve out of a grand-am that opens when it senses backpressure.. maybe that would be easier?
Simple Heater Valve Solution for Early Cars (And Late)
I found it, and could turn the alternator on 100% duty cycle, and seem to remember being able to give it a specific duty cycle.. but I couldn't get the alternator to charge as it should using 2-wires and the factory gm ECM with HPtuners.. and this seems to be common.
The other circuit in the stock brake light switch is for the cruise control interrupt. Look at the CC EWDs and it'll make a lot more sense.
As stock, at least in trucks, the BCM controls a 2-wire alternator.. through the ECM. The primary input is an ammeter that goes around the negative...
If you use a GenIV engine with the 2-wire alternator you either must convert it to 4-wire (which requires soldering a new VR onto it), dealing with low charge voltage, or integrate the GM body control module to control the 2-wire alternator.
If we are talking GenIII engines, I don't have any...
There really doesn't need to be much shaking of internal organs.. a crushed roof can easily crush a cervical vertebra for a taller occupant.
basically going 0mph when this happened, roof was hitting me in the face (I'm tall) and not nearly as flattened as many seen on this board:
cops/fire likely won't help unless you know someone or have a kid/dog stuck in a hot car.
call pop-a-lock, they generally have a lot of experience. They will probably use a couple of wedges and the "big easy" on the front passenger door.. if they take the step of using the clear plastic sleeve...
My resistor ladder solution doesn't apply as well to someone not using the BCM but the switch position could.. I put two momentary pushbutton switches in one of the switch blanks on the left side of the console pocket.. right where my right hand would rest. In practice it has worked great, even...
Sounds like a great idea but my rig will probably be sold before I have time to mess with the low speed bus.
Plus I'm happy with how the transmission acts in low range even if the ECM/TCM don't signal the different schedule.
Right out of the gate, no gasket, just a tapered seal which is NOT how the toyota head was designed.
IMO every plug hole needs to be chased at least. Those tapers likely messed up the top thread in holes 1-5