The rivets were installed by primates, not robots, so the rivet holes between the tops will not line up so you will be drilling, hogging, and filling holes with the new top. People estimated the hole location at times (like on a Friday at 4:50pm). Believe this was already covered.
Good point. Unless you loosen the "winshield" (sorry had to spell it that way), you will scratch the paint on it removing the pins. I know from experience.
I have to agree with others. 4.10s and 37s would be perfect for highway speeds. 3.73 and 35s would be the same. 4:88 and anything under 37s is going to push RPMS way too high for long distant road trips with little trail driving.
I run 4.10s on 35s with F/D18/SM420 and 60-65mph around...
My exhaust is in the same location as yours and I don't get a noticeable amount of fumes coming back in the cab even with my rear hatch open and never smelled a whiff with the top off. The 42 year old engine has a definite and distinct exhaust smell so it would be noticeable if it was dumping...
Mine was built August 1973 (a month older than me) and registered as a 1973, not a 1974 so the idea that all August built 40s are registered as the next calendar year is not always true.
It's been over a month. Maybe Georg was too mean with his helpful and knowledgable comments.
Have you...
Unless you plan on watching movies on the screen, just get a cheap one from Amazon. They are easy to install and all are made from the same basic components unless you go super high end. The bigger the display screen, the better.
This is the most frustrating thread I have read in a while. The description of the OP's 40 is that it runs great but s***ty, fires right up but hard to start, drives with lots of power but lacks power when driving. Pulls great in gear but only when it's coasting. It doesn't idle well unless it's...
My 73 has the wipers on the top. Yours has the later turn signals. Not a 78. Correct rear doors for early 70s. I have to agree with spotcruiser. Looks like the PO just used what ever year parts he could find to replace old parts.
Did you take the shifter cover off the sm430. If it has theplastic guides it can break. Mine did and it wouldn't shift. Replaced it with a metal guide from a different year.
I was a rookie too. Bought myself a stick welder and started reading the mud board. It's easier than you think. One step at a time. I'm SOA running 35s (most of the time and have 37 biased swampers I throw on to wheel sometimes when the tops off) and the 35s make it just the right size to fit...
HonestLy, if your going spring over, buy a 60 series disk brake axle and weld that in. Plenty of kits for the mounts. It will save money and time in the long run. I'm running 1.5" spacers in the rear which made the outside tire width the same as the front.