The hose sections are cut from a stock 2002 Chevy Silverado upper radiator hose. The aluminum section is a air bleed adapter/steam line connector from Jags That Run (may be a new name now) with a second of aluminum tube welded to the downstream.
Nose cone is not the issue. I’ve mixed and matched plenty of nose cones and cases with no issues. If the preload is done correctly then there shouldn’t be any play in the main shaft. Essentially, the main shaft is trapped between the two bearings.
The main shaft bearings are probably shot, and you have zero preload. If you have play as you describe you would want to pull the t-case and check the bearings (and gears). The Toyota t-case is pretty easy to rebuild.
Run the tube to someplace you expect to stay dry. My t-case, trans and front axle breathers are in the engine compartment. Rear axle tube through the deck.
2X on the frame repair. I assume you are not currently driving it, since that spring hanger keeps the rear axle aligned with the frame and tracking correctly.
Those of you not from California may have noticed that if you eat enough of the seals, rub them repeatedly against your skin until your cause sores or grind them into a fine powder and snort enough them, you may end up with cancer or reproductive harm. :cheers:
It's amazing to me the folks who wouldn't dare play Russian Roulette, even if the cylinder could hold 24 rounds, yet will use a hand-held grinder (or any tool for that matter) without the guard.
That's 30 years as being a safety professional speaking.
If the radiator isn't leaking and the straps are solid why spend the money. Unless you're waxing and polishing them, all radiators 'age' and look the same at some point. Clean it up and paint it. Avoid putting too much paint on the fins. They make high temp paint for radiators.
For the plug I use a light film of RTV silicone and have also had good luck on similar plugs with Lock tite thread sealer.
As far as the gears, the small burrs won't hurt anything in the short run, but I would file or grind them smooth so the metal doesn't end up flaking off and end up in the...
Yep! You go into O'Reilly's and ask for valve cover gaskets for a 1976 350 SBC and the guy asks "manual or automatic transmission?"......., and you want to reach across the counter and slap him.
This might be as good as it gets. Looks like the horizontal center line of rear crossmember is about 615mm, center of the headlights is 880mm. You'll have to adjust for your tire/wheel size vs. OEM, but this is how an OEM FJ40 measures up.
FWIW, Cruiser lean is a thing 😂
Well, I hope you have tabs for the stops. I went back and looked at the axle pics and didn't see one on the back side. Do you have tabs on the front of the axle for the stops to hit???
They slam into tabs on the front and rear (depending on the year) of the axle. You can get a feel for how hard the 40 has been wheeled or whether it's taken a hard hit to either or both wheels. Bent or deformed tabs aren't necessarily bad news, just a sign that the rig has seen some use, and a...
This may sound a little out in left field, but for as much metal work I have done in my life (I'm old), I have learned some pretty cool metal working tips and tricks from the TV series 'Bitchin' Rides'. While I appreciate cool cars, I really appreciate the process of 'sculpting' metal to the...