when I bought my 40 it had 4" bs... wasn't a problem until I put the scount steering in... then the arm hit the tire not the wheel... so this may vary a bit truk to truk.
most that I've seen have a set screw in the pull you must loosen... then unscrew the knob. The bezel (sp?) then typically unscrew and then you pull the switch out. But then it does depend what you're driving, but this may get you started.
jm
There is nothing wrong w/ backspacing of less than 3.5"... that's just the stock number. There are people running 2-2.5" and that's where my next set will be. Yes, shorter back space will likely add more stress to the lugs via the lever principle, but not enough that it matters to me. Also w/...
When you re-bled the brakes was there any sign of air actually being in the system? If not this may not be an air issue. If there is air in the system... did one of the reservoirs on the master get too empty and allow air in? Are the shoes all properly adjusted? Those may be the easiest...
They should be able to test the alt. in the rig... I've got a battery charger that will do it and they should have better stuff than I do.
Make sure you have a good power connection into the alt. since it needs one to energize the magnets that provide you power. No power in to the alt. means...
Just had the same problem w/ the long side the other day. turned out the solution was more power! When trying to easy it in it just wouldn't go, but when I got it starting in the 3rd and then really shoved it in (yes, flat spots on the birf were in the right places) fast and with some force it...
Poser has hit on something! The 32/36 is TOO small for the cruiser. 38/38 should make a world of difference... however there are people running the 32/36 without problems. Are you running a fuel pressure regulator? If not you weber may not be happy... I think 3.5psi is the max recommended...
WCD (west coast diffs.) was decent to deal with even though they sent me the wrong install kits... right boxes wrong parts, but they did correct it.
Went w/ 4.88s and had to grind a little off a couple teeth to get the pin back in the carrier. Couple of other guys I wheel w/ did it the same...
Could be a bad connection, so you might check those first... including your ground connections. If it's not resolved via connections sounds like a starter issue... or at least the solenoid starting to go.
jm
I've always heard the 32/36 was too small for the 2F and that to go weber you really need the 38/38... so I'm not surprised the performance doesn't seem to be there.
jm
hey I resemble that;-) and rust shows character! Hope you weren't the last one that ran into me... darn hit & run bums are truly abusing the poor dog... I mean dodge! Cruiser is too scary for regular road travel unless it's looking off the deck of the trailer at the road. Just look for this...
You can also try I.C.S. Auto Transport Division
Call at 1-800-488-6211 or email at mail@insightcargo.com
No first hand experience with them but I've heard they have some reasonable prices... and are fairly timely and responsive.
jm
If ugly can't fit it in to his schedule let me know and I can try to take a look after work some day this week... live in Milwaukee... work in Racine (35 miles south)... so depending where might be right along the way.
jm
Picked mine up at the el-cheapo local parts store... adjustable w/ a push in knob marked in 1/2 psi increments... seems to run best @ 2.5psi. Holley makes one (p/n: 12-804) that's adjustable from 1-4 psi, pre-set @ 3psi I think... for adjustment you either play w/ it until your happy (guessing)...
Sounds like shipping would kill ya... but if you found yourself in WI could probably cut you a reasonable deal on a used OEM. You might find a racing shop that could fab you one similar to stock (with heavier wall material like 0.120") for less than shipping costs on an OEM unit.
jm