Ref:Post#92 & my 1979-80 FJ40.
My '79 FJ40 with about 83000 miles on the meter has a totally stock ammeter. I have owned the money pit from new and the ammeter never deflected much at all. This is true this date as in 1980 as a new vehicle.
To test the ammeter I disable engine starting...
Like Steamer says; I've been using my electric for years as a vapor lock aid and fuel bowl primer. I also have installed insulation on the fuel line. However, I think its important to keep a few new manual pumps on hand - Toyota brand quality is hard to beat.
My '79 will do the same thing; so here's what I have done. Install an inline electric fuel pump. Insulate the fuel line from stock pump all the way to the carb. See:
Bentley-Harris Convoshield – Protective Chrome Tubing for Hoses and Wires
This will help, but may not cure the problem...
Dealers still carry these. Get all of them for the front end; they come with new rods as well. Just did mine a few months ago. Drives like a new FJ40.
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U'll need to do some trouble shooting for this one! Just off the top of my head, I'm going to say that this problem looks like a possible short or near short condition in the lighting system. I'm assuming u r working with a stock 1977 FJ40. Pull a the light bulbs out and see what happens...
This was my first Cap Discharge ignition; really helped my old 1953 pontiac. Good for helping ur points and for starting in really cold weather. Keep as an interesting history goodie ...
Thanks Coolerman;
I just ordered relay#1 & rly#2 from SOR. We will see what turns up. Maybe I'll sent u one of these units for reverse engineering, that's what I bought them for. Some of these parts are listed new from Toyota, but are really not available. The sensor is available and I bought...
Does anyone know if there is documentation covering the carb cooling fan and the RELAY#1 & RELAY#2 circuits? I have checked my manuals:
36104E
36262E
98154
98126
Maintenance Procedures 98231 (1980)
Owners Man. 9763A
Haynes 313
and can't find a hint of info. The sensor is still...
ed..
The ammeter acts like a voltmeter, measuring the voltage across the Fuse Link. The meter is connected thru two 5A fuses (small black block) across the FL by factory connectors. The FL is in series with the+12v battery and the load (lights, Engine etc).
One must be carefull of Toyota...
There is at least one mistake on the included schematic. The fuse link is in series with the amp-meter; it should be in parallel. The truck will be wired so that there is two 5amp fuses (near main loom thru firewall) into the amp-meter.
Prolly not bad. Did u check for spark at a spark plug? Opening and closing the points should produce a spark at plugs. Don't leave ignition key on very long, u could burn up the points etc.