I was using mobil one in the late 80's on my outboard. I bought that boat from a person who swore by it in maybe 1987 and he ad been using it since new. This was in the Seattle area.
Wander over to an old tractor forum some time and ask about oil. The original spec for most tractors was based on whale oil. Opinions abound. My main recommendation is that there is oil and that you change it on some reasonable interval. Ideally that oil has a decent viscosity for the weather...
If I even look under the hood of my LC with a white shirt on I get some oil on it. That and spaghetti ruin pretty much anything white I buy which is why most of my shirts are dark colors!
This just showed up on the flea bay. Up to $1 so far. Reserve hasn't been met. Too shiny for me and someone didn't take much care in the description. 1964 FJ cruiser (it is a 45) with an inline v6. There are no pictures of anything but the shiny paint...
Tires will also rot if left outside. I have replaced mine 2x due to rot with plenty of tread left in ~30yrs. Also figure out how to disconnect the battery if you are not going to drive it regularly or if the wiring is at all suspect. I'm thinking I'd keep it in the garage especially in the humid...
The amperage is the issue combined to some extent with RPMs. Then add in modern expectations and accessories. I have a m37 generator that puts out plenty of juice so you can run the truck and a military radio. I also have an old Austin Healey and you don't want to run the wipers, lights, and...
Exactly that. You can draw too many amps right out of the battery with no alternator present and smoke the system. Now if you have a bunch of demand and the wire from the alternator to the battery (and anything in the path e.g. the ammeter) are not up to the task then you can smoke all of that...
I have made a sail (genoa) from Sailrite with a friend for his boat. We used a normal sewing machine for all but the re-enforced corners. With that we had the ability to do a zig-zag stitch and so on. What kind of machine you need depends on how heavy the fabric is. The machine I use was set up...
That's the beauty of an old carb - the rigs are harder to steal! By the time you figure out where the choke has to be set and how many times to pump the gas pedal where it will start but isn't flooded and so on... Most people don't have the patience to steal your car plus you will probably hear...
The only problem with that part is it would mean I have to get the bolt loose that goes on the block end and that probably means a torch, cursing, and possibly welding a new head on it once or twice. Other than that what a nice mod!
I have not done a toyota one but I have redone a few carbs. Typically you can just replace the shaft since most all of the wear is in the shaft not the body. The shaft itself would be something easy enough to make if you have a small mill or even a drill with an x/y table and a slitting saw plus...
They don't salt the roads there so you don't have to fear the rot. They do sand/gravel them so rock chips are a thing. I don't know how it is now but there used to be passes that were closed to all but 4wd with chains on all 4 during the winter. The Mt Hood/Hwy 26 pass was one. My favorite pass...
I have one somewhere and never use it. I can sharpen by hand better than the little machine. That said I also have a universal grinder if I need something super symmetric but then i also have the means to just bore the hole and if it is super critical you're going to need a reamer!
One of at least 2 hassles with headers. I had a guy silver solder a different route and then put heat shield tube over mine. The other hassle is your PTO drive trying to negotiate the limited space between the header and block.