Were there no instructions? You could check SOR and see if they have instructions online for their covers that might give some ideas.
I can't see how these could work, but maybe you roll under the extra material, or cut it off and re-hem with sewing machine. You shouldn't HAVE to do this, of...
Satin or shiny? I just used automotive single-stage white paint on one of my project trucks. I did not add any flex additives or things like that. I'm sure a paint shop could add a flattening agent to make it less shiny.
If you have a friend waggle the wheel right to left while you watch the rods you might see movement you weren't expecting.
This is about all you need to do. Have someone wiggle the wheel for several minutes while you look...
I made a custom receiver hitch and bought a long extension/insert. I rarely tow, and only tow light stuff, so it doesn't have to be a monster hitch. When removed, the step is functional.
A 'full factory PS setup' will be from a '79-'83 truck, not a '78, where PS was not yet an option. If it's a true FJ40 PS box, it should directly bolt to the pedestal. The center arm should be the same, as should the drag link. You will need to compare the new PS parts to the old FJ40 parts (if...
Thought doors and tops were available aftermarket? Once parts become available that generally lowers used prices.
So far, aftermarket doors (and in my personal experience with Columbian quarter panels) aren't even close to fitting correctly. Read all the body part threads about Chinese tubs and...
If that top and doors are as clean as they appear, I'd buy it immediately at that price. In 6 months, it won't matter if it cost $3500 or $4500 when it's no longer available. Full hardtop setups just don't come on the market much.
@ToyotaMatt likely has boots for this alternator positive post. A correct-fitting (proper) boot is a good thing here, versus the ones that fall off every time you look at them. I doubt a chain auto parts store will have anything useful.
You are at risk of worrying about this too much! If the ring and pinion wear surfaces look good, I would re-assemble and sleep well. Do not disassemble the ring and pinion. The front diff sees very little use/wear on a truck with locking hubs. The 'sludge' is knuckle grease that migrated into...
@jestlurnin You might want to shield the hot posts on that alternator with rubber boots so that you don't, say, lay your oil dipstick across them and fry something.
I presume you don't see any blue smoke on shifts? I vote valve stem seals, but I presume they were replaced with quality parts during the rebuild, so maybe that's not it.
Can you make a temporary PCV 'catch can' and see if it quickly fills with oil?
@diesellibrarian - not sure which is better, your photography or your welding repairs. Both look great.
I sure hope that (after all paintwork is complete) you shoot lots of Fluid Film (or any grease) inside those formerly-rusted cavities. Rust never sleeps.
The standard alignment shops wouldn’t do it because their computers didn’t go back to the 70’s.
That just cracks me up. Heck - they could have used the specs for a 1989 FJ62 and they would have been close enough. You need to avoid any chain joints (if you do this again) and find a frame shop or...
Whether I just stuck a 2F in it, or changed around the drivetrain would depend on how I used the truck. If you putter around a few times a year, just stick the 2F in it. If you pile 10K miles/year on it, then consider something different.
Wait until the gaskets recede over time, and tighten the door latches. As long as the gasket surface is tight and there are no wind/water leaks, count your blessings ;-)