Geez, crazy complex on the newer style doors and his even more so trying to incorporate old bits of the frame and what not. I think I'll stick to the E-74' versions
Jason, your truck simply couldn’t have turned out better, completely amazing. Really cool that it’s made it’s way back into a Toyota showroom 53 years later
@Howard705, agreed. Ideally I’d do both tests but pressurizing the water jacket is generally harder to do. Especially if he’s missing hoses and the radiator.
@xumFJ40, I don’t know what the asking price is but the only way to tell for sure will be a full teardown and magnaflux of the block...
Well, it’s a gamble like you said. You could crack the oil drain plug and see what comes out. Any water will come out first. I’d be doing both a dry and wet compression test too. All you’d need is a starter, a battery and some loose cables
Probably true but too much guess work for me. I wanted the air/fuel ratio to be VERY steady at 14.7 which is right where I got it. I think that’d be terribly hard to do with simply an O2 sensor and a meter. The new wideband digital gauges are extremely fast to record air/fuel ratio changes. The...
Oh yeah, and like stated above. You absolutely cannot have your idle screw turned in too far as it will effect the rest of the tune. I can’t remember if the spec is MAX 1.5 or 2.5 turns in
I can tell you that getting a Weber 32/36 tuned was anything but easy. I did re-jet both the primary and secondaries to go a bit leaner. I suspect you’re rich just based on your altitude and the fact that the Weber is a bit on the big side for the Toyota motor.
I was finally able to dial...
@bb67tlc, those plastic washers look like the ones that go on the very underside of the front door handles. they get sandwiched between the paint on the exterior of the door and the handle.
I've used the replica weatherstripping from CCOT and have cut that down in the past and I've also sourced some "sticky back" foam from McMasterCarr. The commercial foam is pretty good but not a form fit so you have to play with it quite a bit to get it right.
The upper link geometry, unless I'm missing something is completely terrible. A single poly mount to do all the work of laterally controlling the rear axle, that's nuts.
500hp in a truck in which every system is antiquated means you are going to replace just about EVERY Toyota part with 1 ton GM stuff before you are likely to be happy with it. And when I say that I mean the entire braking system, steering, suspension, electrical and so forth.
If you're set on...
OK, I'm with you now. I have been running an Advance Adapters twin stick for 14 years now and it's been great. I'd go that route as the install is clean and simple. I'm running a similar setup to yours, SBC, SM420, Rockbox (now discontinued) and stock transfercase.
As for running around in...
Your original post reads like you're using all Toyota parts, you just want to swap to mechanical shift right? If that's the case, it's a bolt on affair and you can use your original transfer case just fine. I'd pull the tunnel cover for access. On the transfer case itself, the main part that...
@ericstreich, Torfab is up in Everett, he's a fair fellow and he does quality work but his shop can sometimes be a wait to get into. @Coolerman, can re-do your entire harness so it's "plug and play" even with your aftermarket engine. I'm frankly a fan of the aftermarket harnesses (Kwik Wire...
Well, it's hard to say what the "at rest" steering geometry looks like but overall the links look pretty good. I have limit straps on mine and also retainers from the rear coils so that don't come out of the pockets. Minor stuff though. It looks like it flexes very nicely but there is...