I had a conversation with Georg at Roundup about the Fairey overdrive on my '78 45. He gave me no hope. I can't tell yet if this thread makes me more hopeful or less.
Couldn't hurt. I'm going to put one on the Weber on my 45.
Another thought. Anytime there's an intermittent issue, my inner voice whispers "check yer grounds".
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? I learned during my visit to BTS/Man-a-Fre in Nevada that the factory mechanical fuel pump puts out more pressure than the Weber wants. They actually like the Weber on their 2F rebuilds.
My '72 and '73 projects both have evidence of this happening in the past.
I did that in my '66 MGB ~30 years ago on a rainy night after wiping the moisture out of the distributor cap. Aluminum hood. That sucked too.
I ordered a kit and am happy with it. I learned recently from a YouTube video (Proffitts Resurection Land Cruisers) that installing stainless bolts causes rust issues in nearby sheet metal. Differential metal effects.
Good call. I’ve got the manifold off, but the replacement I have from a 60 doesn’t have fittings for the EGR or brake booster. Seems like a single helicoil could be easier.
Ichiro won’t hold a vacuum.
This truck is such a tease. It seems so complete, but it needs everything.
I continue to enjoy the project, and I fully realize that as an amateur mechanic I need to be patient and open to learning, but man would it be nice to drive and use this thing once in a while.
I'm 6'2" and hope to solve the same problem with 20 year old Porsche 911 seats mounted 1 1/2" higher than the stock seats. Can't go back as you've said without major surgery on the cab, but I'm hoping that going up a little will enable a tolerable seating position.
Funny timing of this discussion. I applied for my GMRS license literally this morning. Followed the step-by-step here. I'm not sure I'll ever be motivated to get a HAM license.
In preparation for SAS, I decided to look for any loose connectors or splices that a PO may have left for me under the dash. Found this cooked turn signal wire powered by a blown aftermarket 30A fuse. So that’s why the hazards don’t blink.