Check with Randy's Ring and Pinion and similar shops. Because the Land Cruiser diff can be removed and serviced separate from the axle it is easier to pull it and send it to a shop vs. a Dana axle where the diff is serviced in place. A buddy of mine had his diffs rebuilt with ARB lockers...
Look REAL close at the last picture. I'm pretty sure that is not a factory hubcap (note the 2 screws roughly in a line from the valve stem, the white rim poking through between the beauty ring and center cap and lastly "Dean" stamped in the center cap).
@c2dfj45 - so just how much IS a set of...
Relax. The joints have made it this far; they are not likely to fail tomorrow. Take your time and find the right parts for a decent price and install them when the weather is a little nicer. For now, if you have a grease gun, give the joints a shot of fresh grease to help quiet things down...
Often you need to use a brake hone to open up the bore of the bushing after installing new. Used to be a common step for things like kingpin bushings and cam bearings back in the day.
Nick
The rough finish on the inside is from a drill bit - that is the finish some big drill bits leave when you don't need to worry about finish. In that location the finish is not important. The factory just needs to get the metal out of the way. The rest of the stuff is nothing to worry about...
While not for my Land Cruiser I bought product from Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet for my diesel F250 project. Plus the website helps with the how and why of sound deadening. I've not gotten to the sound deadener part of the project yet but I expect it will work well.
Nick
You guys must be from the non-rusty part of the world. Brass hammer? Rubber hammer? :rofl: Most of the drums I need to get off require a large BFH with some very manly swings to remove - at least the first time. After I've serviced the brakes the mounting surfaces get coated in anti-seize...
You can remove the rear driveshaft and drive around with the front driveshaft (using 4x4 of course - don't forget to lock the hubs too). If the noise is gone then you might have found the problem - the u-joints need changed in the rear driveshaft.
Nick
Best place to ask in in the clubhouse section - Yankee Toys.
I had a FJ60 registered in MA 10 years ago that had worse rust than that and passed inspection without issue; even had to pass emissions back then. I'd ask an inspection person to look at it. If it doesn't pass - zip screw a patch...
I'll bet I have a title and VIN tag around here somewhere for an FJ60...
Sure, go ahead and drop that truck off. I'll let you know when I'm done with it. :moon:
Nick
From my 2FE build...
The battery didn't move.
The computer mounts on the same mounts the FJ62 used.
The FJ62 tank and lines make that part simple.
There is a fuel pump block-off plate on the side of a 3F block IIRC. Simple to make one from some aluminum plate if not.
No machining necessary to...
From my experience building a 2FE in my '84 I think the 2FE is easier. The accessories all stay in the "right" places for the FJ60. I only had to adjust the cooling lines to adapt the 3FE thermostat housing to the 2F cooling system. For my swap I pulled all the wires out of the FJ62 harness...
I would not reuse those pistons. In the photo of the 2 pistons just above the caliper shot - the shadowing on the side of the piston where the seal rides will cause issues. BTDT with a BMW. Just replace the whole caliper now and save yourself future headaches.
A quality reman caliper...
Sounds like the A/C compressor is locked up. By turning the A/C off you unlocked the compressor clutch and let the pulley spin with the belt. The screeching is likely the belt trying to slide over a locked up A/C pulley. Easy to check, open the hood, fire up the motor, turn on the A/C and...
This is a CRITICAL step. Bed the pads to the new rotors and the brakes will work great for years. Do it wrong and you will think you warped a rotor in a matter of minutes. It's more important with performance stuff but even the crappy pads from Autozone need proper bedding to work right.
Nick
I've seen where the clutch was not adjusted correctly and the clutch could not clamp. Not saying the OP has this issue but before jumping in and saying the clutch is shot I'd make sure it's adjusted and working correctly... :cheers: