So, you drained the front diff. before you ripped into the knuckle - between that and having the axle seal out it seems like there wouldn't be any gear oil left. I don't see how a bunch came past the axle seal when you pushed the axle all the way in?
Wow, you must have really been torquing that thing down to break it. Those are only susposed to be snugged down. I wouldn't think missing one of the eight would cause a problem though. If it were me I would try to get an EZ out in there and remove it. You should be able to do it in place without...
OEM gasket with no sealant = no leaks.
Changed mine on 3 different FJ62's over the years with no problems. As erfworm mentioned the torque spec. is very low.
I just did a knuckle rebuild. I had no problem getting the races out with the BFH / brass drift method. Also no problem putting the new ones in tapping slowly on the side of a hexagonal brass drift. I did have the races in the freezer overnight and installed them cold which helps a bit.
I...
I guess it depends on what they do for the knuckle rebuild. I'm assuming that includes just replacing the axle seal and repacking the birf's / bearings? Most of the time wheel & trunion bearings should also be replaced while you are in there.
If you do a search in the dozens of knuckle...
The only thing I'd be concerned about is the compression issue. I'm can't say that I'd pass based on it but I would want to find out what is up.
Unless you are buying from an enthusiast that wrenches most of the other items always need to be done. As others have said they aren't that...
Hmm... I don't remember what size the bolt was. I just used what I had around. I checked and the nut I used takes a 10mm socket (whatever that works out to for bolt size).
Of course I think someone savvy enough to do their own knuckle rebuild would notice a death wobble and not drive until they crashed. Mine drives perfectly after going back together as have most others that I have read about. I still have not seen one post here, on 3FE, or any Cruiser site where...
We are talking about preload on the knuckle bearings. Aside from the fact that I have not heard of another Cruiser owner having problems when simply reinstalling the proper shims, it's not something that falls into the "catastrophic failure" category. Remember, you are dealing with hobby...
You should get the gasket for both the pan and filter. I would go with OEM on it, they aren't very expensive.
Check out the procedure for the "Rodney flush" if you haven't. Instead of unhooking the return line at the back of the transmission (and dropping the driveshaft which is in the way) I...
I just completed a knuckle rebuild a week ago. Most of the posts I found here and over at the 3FE list said to just keep the shims in order and not worry about doing the knuckle bearing preload check. There were a few people that said they were going to go through the preload check procedure...
You definitely should drop the pan, clean the filter, and do a passive flush (discussed in the above threads). It probably has never been changed. Dirty fluid and high temps are a good way to kill an A440.
One of the other steps Rodney recommends is to do a flow test. Basically unhook a line...
Most shops use a book or database to quote hrs. required on a job. Say it's a 3.5 hr job - a decent mechanic familiar with the vehicle will routinely get it done quicker which is one way they make their money.
It's got high miles, some minor scratches & dents, but I get more comments than I would in any new $40k SUV. Cruisers are non-existent in central Michigan so that helps, but every time I drive it I get a wave, beep, question, or WTB offer.
Lots of good suggestions.
I would put some miles on it before spending money on anything that isn't urgent. You want to make sure that 1. you like the vehicle, 2. you don't have any problems / fixes that become apparent after you just spent all your money on a lift and some wheels.