still trouble shooting... with the truck at idle and the switch depressed to "on" I get no reading when I touch a voltmeter to the solder joints on the back of the switch. Fuse is good... bad switch?
some progress... 12v straight to the compressor kicked it on, it took some more 134 and got cold. But it wont cycle on without that 12v... so I’m thinking that leads to a faulty amplifier. Is there a way to troubleshoot that thing or do I just need a new one?
high side is still around 50... for the few moments that it did kick on during the initial fill of r134 the high side never went very high but the low side was dropping as the engine revved. But at some point while I continued to fill it stopped working and now I can't get it to kick on even...
Im going by approximation... 55mph on the speedo should be mid 60s and although I could floor it and go faster, it already sounds like the space shuttle at liftoff
yes it was r12 before, but I replaced everything that touches the coolant... compressor, condenser, drier, expansion valve, hoses and seals, so there shouldn’t be any residual r12 anywhere in the system. How do I know when I’ve charged too much? What low side pressure should I look for?
I've replaced all the components to my 85 60's AC system including hoses and seals. Put a vaccum for 30+ min on the system to pull air and moisture. Refilled about 1/2 capacity with refrigerant, started truck, held the revs to 1300 or so and the compressor engaged and the pressure gauges began...
someone would pay 40k for what you just described...
Obviously it should drive and stop pretty well and suspension shouldn't be too saggy. Bring a magnet, check for rust (then check again), check for corroded clamps and cracks in hoses, check the steering knuckles, check for oil leaks, check...
I really do want to build the best multipurpose engine I can while keeping the original "feel" and general characteristics of the vehicle as it was designed. Hence I'm not interested in the LS swap. We have all these parts at our disposal, whether they be aftermarket EFIs and headers or...
sounds like you still prefer the 3FE out of all three choices... when I pull the drivetrain for the H55 I can rebuild the 2F, create a 2FE or just source a 3FE, rebuild it and swap it in.
I see... is there anything inherently better about the 3FE block than the 2F? I wonder if a sniper 2F with a ported/polished intake and headers would be competitive with the 3FE?
Has anyone posted direct comparisons between a Sniper 2F, a 2FE and a 3FE? What is difference in power and efficiency between them and which is easier or feasible to drop into a 60?
I run 33x12.5/15 as well... Ken Towery (regional chain) put them on for me... they might be too wide though. It wanders a lot! I don't rub though unless I turn it to the lock.
If it were me... download a FSM. I'd sort it mechanically first. Make sure it can start, accelerate and stop reliably. Then I'd start knocking off the cosmetics... me personally, I'd repair or replace all the parts you touch first, and then work on the parts you see. Keep your kids as involved...