Look for replacement bulbs made by Blazer International. I replaced my stock backup lights with these and they're much brighter. Can't remember the exact bulb #, though.
I'm thinking of selling the 60. Not sure yet. But as I look at ebay, it seems like prices are holding strong or are even increasing lately. Is that just wishful thinking on my part, or are 60 prices pretty strong right now?
R U saying to pull all the bulbs but one, drive it long enough so that it should blow the fuse if it's going to, then if that's not it then go to the next bulb, putting back one at a time?
If I isolate the bulb, then what?
Ok, guys...don't reach through the computer and choke me. I feel really bad about because you've been so good to help me. But here's the deal. I just discovered that when I was trying to diagnose my signal lights that I pulled a relay, the one labeled "flasher" and forget to reinstall it. Now...
I just looked at the fusible links. I didn't test them. Don't know how.
I found a bad fuse for the turn signals, but right before I found it, as I was driving home, the volt meter went to nothing, and now the battery won't turn over the engine. But the charge or volt lights never came on...
It starts fine--cold or warm--but dies if you let it get below about 1000 rmps. Fusable links look fine. As for a vacuum leak, that would only be the culprit if the idle issue coincidentally happened at the same time as my electrical issues.
Alternator was tested today and appears ok.
I've noticed a few symptoms slowly during the last two weeks or so and have decided they may be related. Here are the main issues: Headlights and signal lights are dead and the engine dies whenever I try to push in the choke, even when the engine is fully warmed up. It will run ok as long as I...
One of the best ways to use Seafoam is to pull the plugs, pour a little bit into each cylinder, let is sit overnight, then fire it up the next day and watch the white smoke fill the neighborhood. But running it for a short time in the oil and in the fuel is also a good thing--in my experience.
No, you're wrong. A fan clutch isn't worthless at all. If everything is working even pretty well, you'll have no cooling issues. Change the fan clutch and I bet your problem will go away.
If it's cooling at idle it's NOT the fan clutch. The non-Toyota clutches may be crap, but if it's only overheating at highway speeds, it's not the clutch.
Could you have a gasket at the pump that's causing an obstruction?
I don't mean to throw cold water on the electric fan project, but if everything is working properly, the 60 cooling system is completely adequate for proper cooling except, possibly, under very severe conditions. Not having done the electric fan conversion, I can't vouch for how valuable it...