@Carlp336 - My '78 2F plugs looked like that when the valve stem seals were shot. The plugs cleared up after seal replacement. Your buildup was very fast and heavy for the miles driven, however. Also check the PCV valve to be sure you're not sucking in too much crankcase goo and use the correct...
@DirtMcgirt79
Replace the pan gasket first. 99% of trucks with the original gasket need it, and the job is so much easier than pulling the transmission. My FJ62 has 262K and still has the original, non-leaking rear main seal. If needed, you can heat the flange of the oil pan to remove the old...
Low fluid levels that come up as the fluids heat up can do this.
You must, must, must check the trans fluid hot (as hot as possible) with the engine running, per the owner's manual, and see that the level is correct. Use Dexron III if you do a drain/fill.
As far as this forum knows, there are no 'factory' racks - only generic dealer-added junk. Likely valued as scrap, unless you know a desperate person with an Oldsmobile station wagon.
If you caulk some screws into the holes, keep an eye out for rust forming under the caulk over time. UV light...
The rubber channels have flocking, which reduces the friction of the sliding glass. After 30 years, the flocking is gone and you have glass-on-rubber. Spraying with silicone helps, but fresh rubber is the long term solution. There can be complicating factors, like gummed up gears, too, which...
How about a rubber expansion plug sold for stripped out oil pans? It's not holding back any pressure. There are many styles of rubber expansion plugs - this is just one:
https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug/p/needa-parts-1-2in-universal-oil-drain-plug/256832_0_0
I would absolutely run with the new 'used engine' and just go pick up your stuff from the machine shop and stash it away. Many used 2Fs have many, many miles left in them, and a rebuild is likely to be a lot sketchier.
I would charge the battery fully, see that it reads 12.6v after a few minutes of sitting, then start the truck and do an alternator/charging test. Check the volts at the battery idling (should be 14ish), turn on the high beams and blower, and check it again - should be very close to what it was...
@TheElegantFox - Your post is valid - I fought this a little bit on some homemade carpet I installed on my rear floor and seat back. Good job on figuring out an elegant (no pun intended) solution.
My front ARB isn't all that heavy, compared to the factory slab. I wouldn't have mounted it, it if was (given an FJ62 at 7000' elevation). Rear bumpers with swingouts tend to be a lot heavier just due to all the functions they provide.
Sharp truck!
I'd sure power wash the bottom and squirt Fluid Film and oil all over the place to stop any existing rust that might be lingering from its NH home.
I think you will like the FJ62. Mine (10 years ownership) has been very reliable and fun. It sucks gas, big-time. It will give you the same '80s Toyota vibe that your 4Runner did (the smells, the sounds, jiggling the keys in the worn locks, and so on). I owned a 1st gen 4Runner for years and I...
Supposedly, you should fill the wear grooves with JB Weld before installing the speedy sleeve so that the sleeve does deform into the grooves. YMMV. A professional repair at a machine shop (if they do it right) might be superior in this case, since yours is so badly roached.
@thenative1 - Have a buddy/wife hold the key in the 'crank' position while you smack the starter with a stick (ball bat, 2x2, etc.) and see if the starter engages and cranks. That is a classic starter test/fix from way back.