Doubt the pulley bearing had been seized for 8 months. Pretty sure the belt would not survive that.
'Water Pump' was never an issue because it runs off of the Timing Belt....not the serpentine belt.
Glad you got everything fixed though.
Hmmmmm.....no worky for me. My seat memory is suddenly not working (can't set it and it doesn't 'ding' as before) also the auto retract of the steering wheel is not working (perhaps tied to the seat memory). I can move the steering wheel manually with the toggle.
Its not so much the LX vs. Land Cruiser, but different Year Models use different steering racks because they changed the mounts. Mine is a '99 LX470, later year models used a rack that attaches a slightly different way. So the rack for mine would not fit yours.
I would be surprised if the leak were in the discharge line (or discharge line only). The suction and discharge lines are pretty robust and not prone to leaks (OEM lines anyway). Condenser leaks are much more common and not always easily diagnosed.
Anyway, hope you are able to get it sorted...
Rolling away in Park is a sign of three things:
1. Center diff lock is NOT locked (despite and lights on the dash)
2. Parking 'pawl' in transmission is broken (doubtful unless you've had that issue previously)
3. One (or both) drive flanges have stripped out or the Circlip has come off the CV...
Quality rebuilt long-blocks with warranty are indeed right around $5K.
Example: Lexus Toyota 2UZFE 4.7L V8 Remanufactured Engine - 1/98-11/04 - Powertrain Products - https://shop.powertrainproducts.net/product/1-98-11-04-2uzfe/
Then you swap your intake, throttle body, accessories, exhaust...
The price quoted doesn't sound out of line for the work necessary to replace the line.
Presumably, your system is either empty or very low on refrigerant. Either way...your mechanic is going to do a recovery/evacuation. Then replace the hose, pull a vacuum to check for leaks. IF no leaks then...
Nothing to it really. Just pluck the old one's off and put the new ones on. (One is smaller than the other two). No more
leak.
Because I know someone is going to ask:
No need to remove the the lower radiator hose (bringing the alternator out the bottom). There is room to 'snake' it by the hose, but its tight. The alt can also be brought out the 'top'. I've done it both ways. Equally challenging.....just for different reasons.
I will never understand why...
Correct. IF you can find the suffix number on a connector then you can add the prefix '90980' (prefix number) for "MOST" connectors to get the part number (to order).
^^^^^
This. Good reminder. 👍
More than a few people have had the connector (on the wiring harness) crumble when removing it from the alternator.
So as @Eyedaho wisely suggests, best to have one on hand before starting the job. The aren't expensive....so IF you don't need it, no big deal.
I would characterize that as 'crazing' more than 'cracks' but semantics aside....are there any recommendations from the manufacturer to 'treat' the seats periodically with a product? Just wondering since I'll be doing this in the near future .
Its pretty rare for the belt to fail (not the result of a seized bearing in the water pump or pulleys) but it has happened.
More often....the water pump will seize and take out the belt. Or the water pump leaks (undetected or neglected) and coolant contaminates the bearings of the tensioner...