Hey Paul, I do recall you saying you had to replace the air filter on your trip home. I don't remember anything about a shudder but that was 6(?) years ago now. Butters has never shuddered since I got it from you. The truck has run flawlessly. The couple of times I experienced the boiling, I...
FYI, mine has had the boiling/vapor lock issue. I'm sure it will still happen as I have done nothing to mitigate it. I don't put the truck in the situation enough to consider it a problem I need to address at this point. Not to belittle it as boiling fuel is a terrifying thing. It has...
That ticking doesn't sound that bad to me but is definitely evident. I hear some kind of a knock too but may be from something in the rotating perpheral assembly like a pulley, etc. If you don't know the history of the plugs and question them, change them out regardless. If they appear...
Did you install new plugs after the compression test? If not, then the torque spec is different, although not listed. I find that I have to use a bit more torque on already crushed plug washers because they've already been deformed. Ideally, they should be replaced. If the plugs were new...
I was actually kidding. It blows me away when I see trucks this old with such low mileage. I bought my '06 4 years ago with 59K on it and now have 125K. Enjoy your "new" rig!
This is my guess also. Bearings should be replaced and a complete unit, not only part as you did. I get your logic but as far as I understand it, they wear together and so become a mated pair.
If you don’t know the work history of the truck, bare minimum replace the main rad hoses, the rad cap, thermostat, foam around the rad and probably the fan clutch. Other than that, others can chime in on things like the serpentine belt, etc.
Personally, I only use the OEM stuff. They last a long time so silicone doesn’t make sense to me. Also, silicone hoses can be prone to weeping as they can be hard to get a good seal, especially if there’s any putting in the aluminum. They also require a rolled edge clamp to avoid the cutting of...
The "putz" comment, I couldn't resist because of the snarky post I read. Hardly putzy at all really. Anyway, I'm happy that the new spring brought me to where I want to be consider the age of the rest of the system.
I couldn't leave well enough alone. Having never messed with them, I...
I did. Setting the new springs next to each other, they looked very similar in length. I didn’t actually measure though. I triple checked the numbers, and matched the colors with the old springs. Everything checked out.
I just finished a complete AHC service. It feels good to be done. It is not a hard job, just a bit tedious. Adjusting the heim links is a pain cuz tight space. I also replaced my tired coils in the rear.
Here are some takeaways from my experience:
-The new LC springs reduced the rear pressure...
So just to make sure here, Bleed the left 3 components in "L" and the right 2 in "N" position? Seems like leaving the system in L would not allow new fluid to get to the 3 components on the left side whereas raising the system to N would pull fresh into the system? Am I missing something here?