There is a strip molding (I don't know the correct word) that snaps into the body under the rear side window. I need to install this, but I can't figure out a way to get under or aside the window in order get this in.
If I install the clips into the molding, there is not enough room to get...
I'm all about more voltage in general, but I'm also super curious as to this. I do wonder if Gulf-spec 2UZs have the resistor? Can't we rather just jump the wires at the connector?
I have not put anything in my airbox nor have added a fan to the resistor (though maybe not a bad idea). I'm curious if a switched bypass is a good idea.
Mine still does this. Fuel pump replaced, some fuel lines heat wrapped (though If fear this just keeps heat in the lines at shutdown). I have NOT bypassed nor replaced the resistor.
Talk me through this. Removing the resistor will cause the fuel pump to pull whatever amperage it would naturally have, as well as some level of voltage increase from nominal (not sure how much). Do we know that the fuel pump is supposed to be running at 13.8VDC? Was the resistor there to...
For me, I did. FWIW, just sent in the seatbelts to a place to have them re-armed and reset. Took about 2 weeks. Reinstalled, and though the airbag light is on (due to the side curtains) runs like a dream.
Can't wait to read this whole thread. FWIW I have every symptom you gave and without any aux fuel system. トヨタ made some serious errors in the new system, seemingly untested. I bitch more in other threads and damn this gasoline loving TMNA. But again can't wait for a full read.
Non-Ethanol is a big key to this, for sure. I truly believe the EVAP system is broken by design, and the late model reroute exasperated the problem. The fuel pump resistor theory is super interesting. I've debated routing a 12VDC marine blower for when I turn the vehicle off.