Ground issues can have a huge affect on the EDIC system.
Check that.
You might be able to ground the EDIC controller though body IIRC, then you can ground to the frame of the vehicle.
That’s how I diagnosed a EDIC ground issue.
Sounds like air in fuel lines.
I had a diesel leak that caused my rig to stutter at 2500 RPM, it idles and ran great until I hit the road then it would bog down.
That is probably what happened, considering you replaced the lines.
Awesome!
Yea, since this post I have put many more KM on the 3B, and it’s been great, I have driven many of my longest trips I have even gone on by myself with the BJ62.
The old diesel doesn’t need much, I usually put on good quality Baldwin Oil/fuel filters - these are great for heavy duty...
I wouldn’t worry about the A/C until you get that frame sorted out.
Yes, AC can be added- it’s been done before.
Time money needs to be spent looking at the frame, and how much lipstick is on that pig.
If you are referring to the arm on the voltmeter bouncing when the signal is on, I have heard it’s harmless, my BJ60 does the same thing. I can’t help much more, but flip to page 305 on the manual - it talks about what your running voltage should be at 2000 RPM...
Yep. My BJ60 radiator corroded after a good 40 years of use.
I used a FJ60 rad and It’s a pain because the bottom rad tube is on the wrong side, but I used the FJ62 Factory radiator hose elbow with a new rad hose I found at my local parts store. Couple of gear clamps and it works like a champ.
I haven’t been able to find bolts for my motor mounts as well - washers will probably be your friend.
Torque specification probably aren’t crucial.
However this chart might help - I found this in another thread for F series motor mounts.
I have seen fuel lines rust and fall apart.
I have also seen these 3B run upside down and backwards. Never had an issue with getting them to run right.
Like squash said,
I’d say isolate the fuel delivery, by disconnecting the fuel line from the primer, and running it out of a jerry can - go...