Yeah it works pretty well. If I didn't have to work about interior space (2 kids) I'd probably re route them in a different manner. If I had to do it again, I'd use trailing arms as opposed to a double triangulated 4 link.
I'll try and snap some pics. It goes into the tub through the stock filler neck and immediately exits through the rear fender well. Then runs back in over the highest part of the tank.
It's a trial and error process. You can spend as much time in the link calculator as you want, buy its comes down to packaging if you plan on keeping a stock frame.
Well, it seems as though it might be worth while to provide some feedback to the forum that has helped me out on many occasions. This is a post build thread (Are builds ever really done though?) of my 1972 FJ40. I thought if I provided some pictures and knowledge of my experiences it might save...
Stock frame in the rear. I'll have to measure wms, it's a full width Dana 60U. I had to sneak a 1/2 wheel spacer in to get a little more width, but I had plenty of lug length to do so.
Yeah we use Swagelok in almost all of our applications. I'd be happy with a 6k# rated valve. I think I can build a linkage that uses the handbrake operator to open and close a ball valve, I think it would be a cool setup.
Is there a specific line lock you have had good luck with? I have considered this, but it seems like alot of people have issues with bleed off. It holds for 24 hrs I'd be happy.
Have any of your guys had any luck with rear calipers (GM Metric style) that have the e-brake built in? I am exploring some e-brake options right now, since I generally use my auto to hold my fj40 in park. I don't have the space for a driveline parking brake since t-case is fairly tight up...