Use 2" tubing at the base of your cage as a sleeve. That way you can lower the cage to do the final welds on the top and raise it back in place and weld the 1.75" tubing to the 2" sleeve.
When we originally came up with our sliders for the FJ40 and wanted to use the u-bolt design, it became quickly apparent that it won't work on 78 and older models. A u-bolt simply won't clear the gas tank sump unless you have a 79 or newer that has the gas tank tuck up under the tub.
You don't need to machine any adapters, Cary sells the single barrel base plate that has the holley two barrel bolt pattern. Go find someone that has an old holley adapter for a F/2F motor and everything bolts right into place. Only thing you will need to convert is the mechanical linkage to a...
I have a 80 series rear axle with a FJ62 transfer case and I've gotten my FJ40 up to highway speeds with little vibrations... then again everything vibrates with my truck BUT no drive line issues.
I'll get in contact with them sometime soon and see where they are at.
Advance Adapters has an 95/97 80 series drive train at their shop, I have been in some lengthy discussions with them about getting an adapter developed for it. Their main focus right now is the 4spd Atlas with it's design revisions. Perhaps when they are finished with that project I can try to...
If you're using a 1.5" ram that is a little under powered for a rig like a FJ60 or a FJ40 for that matter. I use a 1.75" ram and it works well in the rocks pushing my 39.5" Iroks.
Some had shims and some didn't. Mine had a shim so I removed it and put everything back together, others do not have a shim so you would add one to create more pressure.
They also talk about drilling the fitting to a larger size to increase flow rate from idle to low rpms.
You can shim the pressure valve on your saginaw pump to produce more fluid flow through your system. It helps out a little bit for a better reaction time but once again it comes down to the amount of fluid volume your entire system can handle.
powersteering
Why not go to a double cv shaft in the front? It will relieve a lot of the pinion angle and much cheaper than going through all the work of cutting things apart and welding everything back together.
A 22re or 20r would not be a wise choice for a Sammy. The drivetrain options for it are way too long for the samurai body. Swapping the Sammy body over to the 80 series is a step backwards, seeing that the Sammy is known to be light weight. With the combo of the light weight sammy with 80...
Mark blew the top half of his radiator on the 80 series and my engine has a pretty good leak coming from the side of the block. Surprisingly I can go down the road at 55mph easily with a stroked 2f, 4.11s and 40" tires :grinpimp:
The leaf springs in the rear will dictate where the axle will sit, from there it is measuring side to side measurements. For the front, build your new springs hangers as square as possible and from there it the same deal. Measure the side lengths.